h22 type S turbo wat is needed
k guys as it says about need some help with this
im in ireland so anything bought will be coming from the states so ideas of where to buy and wat to buy will be great
any why
i wanna reach about 350 - 380whp
the block is a jdm 97 type S block
now i know i will defo have to replace the pistons and rods
but which would be best suited
have the turbo/intercooler/wastegate/piping/oil lines/fmu/bov/downpipe/manifold
what else am i forgetting to do
i was gonna get EAGLE RODS ARIAS PISTONS but is there any advice you may offer me to help me on my build
and is there any advantage in using a type S block eg (any parts stonger than normal h22)
im in ireland so anything bought will be coming from the states so ideas of where to buy and wat to buy will be great
any why
i wanna reach about 350 - 380whp
the block is a jdm 97 type S block
now i know i will defo have to replace the pistons and rods
but which would be best suited
have the turbo/intercooler/wastegate/piping/oil lines/fmu/bov/downpipe/manifold
what else am i forgetting to do
i was gonna get EAGLE RODS ARIAS PISTONS but is there any advice you may offer me to help me on my build
and is there any advantage in using a type S block eg (any parts stonger than normal h22)
i'm not sure what tranny you plan on using, but i would not recommend using the type-s tranny with ATTS. your ATTS will not work with that kind of power, and it would be like driving without any kind of power biasing drivetrain. i would get a jdm s-spec motor and trans and begin the build withthat setup.
i'm not into upgrading internals so i can't help you with rod/piston choice, but i would recommend something with a higher compression. something like 11:1 would be ideal IMO. if you go too low your motor won't be as responsive, and higher compression burns cleaner anyways. and i assume you plan in sleaving your block since you wil be getting forges pistons, which will help protect internals.
i think tuning is where you can, and probably will, make the most power. make sure you find a good ECU and tuning program. i'm not into boost either so i'm not sure what tuning options would be best, but i would think something like hondata would work fine for you. or you could always go the AEM EMS or Greddy E-Manage route.
good luck with your build, and i hope my input helps.
i'm not into upgrading internals so i can't help you with rod/piston choice, but i would recommend something with a higher compression. something like 11:1 would be ideal IMO. if you go too low your motor won't be as responsive, and higher compression burns cleaner anyways. and i assume you plan in sleaving your block since you wil be getting forges pistons, which will help protect internals.
i think tuning is where you can, and probably will, make the most power. make sure you find a good ECU and tuning program. i'm not into boost either so i'm not sure what tuning options would be best, but i would think something like hondata would work fine for you. or you could always go the AEM EMS or Greddy E-Manage route.
good luck with your build, and i hope my input helps.
type s motor has lsd not atts and also a higher compression is not the right thing to do...the type s comes with 11:1 compression, you want something like 9:1 or something like that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">type s motor has lsd not atts and also a higher compression is not the right thing to do...the type s comes with 11:1 compression, you want something like 9:1 or something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>
type s has atts. Sir has LSD.
type s has atts. Sir has LSD.
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well the stock bore on the h22 is 87mm
the new pistons are 87.5mm with a compression of 8.4
how much work is there with this job sorry im new to this and just need some steering in the right direction
the new pistons are 87.5mm with a compression of 8.4
how much work is there with this job sorry im new to this and just need some steering in the right direction
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mystic-s »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the stock bore on the h22 is 87mm
the new pistons are 87.5mm with a compression of 8.4
how much work is there with this job sorry im new to this and just need some steering in the right direction</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would start by reading the FAQ/Essential Links that are stickied at the top of this forum
and also using the search feature. We have MANY boosted ludes here so finding information on what to do is not going to be a problem.
the new pistons are 87.5mm with a compression of 8.4
how much work is there with this job sorry im new to this and just need some steering in the right direction</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would start by reading the FAQ/Essential Links that are stickied at the top of this forum
and also using the search feature. We have MANY boosted ludes here so finding information on what to do is not going to be a problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want something like 9:1 or something like that</TD></TR></TABLE>
with a good tuner you can make more power with less boost. there was an atricle in some magazine where a higher compression/low boost car made more power than a lowe compression/high boost car. i think it was sport compact car, and they were testing this on a dodge neon srt-4. like i said before, higher compression with low boost would give you better throttle response and burn cleaner.
i have seen integra type-r's running 7-9 lbs of boost beat the crap out of integra gsr's running 14-16 lbs of boost (same driver BTW). its all about tuning people!
with a good tuner you can make more power with less boost. there was an atricle in some magazine where a higher compression/low boost car made more power than a lowe compression/high boost car. i think it was sport compact car, and they were testing this on a dodge neon srt-4. like i said before, higher compression with low boost would give you better throttle response and burn cleaner.
i have seen integra type-r's running 7-9 lbs of boost beat the crap out of integra gsr's running 14-16 lbs of boost (same driver BTW). its all about tuning people!
why u reakon the atts is a bad idea i have had the car on track with no problem light only ever came on once due to bad tire wear and atts picked up on this
so u reakon change the rods and keep the pistons off the type S or get lower compression 1's, would really like to do it right not many turbo honda tuners over here
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
type s has atts. Sir has LSD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong the type SH has atts and the Type S has lsd....type s and sir are the same thing pretty much...jdm 5g
type s has atts. Sir has LSD.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong the type SH has atts and the Type S has lsd....type s and sir are the same thing pretty much...jdm 5g
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wrong the type SH has atts and the Type S has lsd....type s and sir are the same thing pretty much...jdm 5g</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/preludes/
basically you are very wrong aznboy.
there are generally two types of "type s" mainly becacuse i think the junkyards/online places sell any engine with a red top as a type s. i know some ppl have been confused on this.
wrong the type SH has atts and the Type S has lsd....type s and sir are the same thing pretty much...jdm 5g</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/preludes/
basically you are very wrong aznboy.
there are generally two types of "type s" mainly becacuse i think the junkyards/online places sell any engine with a red top as a type s. i know some ppl have been confused on this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AznBlueBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrong the type SH has atts and the Type S has lsd....type s and sir are the same thing pretty much...jdm 5g</TD></TR></TABLE>
you kiddin me?
you kiddin me?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you kiddin me?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its ok, i already owned him
you kiddin me?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its ok, i already owned him
ima kinda just jump into this and ask didn't the type s come with an lsd and atts option or am i mistaken. other then that i dont think he's exactly "wasting" a type s engine considering all the ludes in europe come with them anyway... we would be the ones wasting it here in the states.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xLude97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ima kinda just jump into this and ask didn't the type s come with an lsd and atts option or am i mistaken. other then that i dont think he's exactly "wasting" a type s engine considering all the ludes in europe come with them anyway... we would be the ones wasting it here in the states.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Type S has ATTS factory. There was never a Type S with LSD. That is the Accord Sir motor.
but it is a waste of money if you are just going to rebuild the bottom end. Once you mess with the internals, its not a type S anymore and is something you could have done with a base model h22.
Type S has ATTS factory. There was never a Type S with LSD. That is the Accord Sir motor.
but it is a waste of money if you are just going to rebuild the bottom end. Once you mess with the internals, its not a type S anymore and is something you could have done with a base model h22.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">higher compression with boost? Better be one DAMN good tuner. If not, that bitch will never get boost without detonating.</TD></TR></TABLE>
anything under 10:1 with a good tune is acceptable under 9.5:1 is best...you should sleeve the block as stated and you will have to if you want to run Eagle Rods....Mahle makes a piston that you don't have to sleeve to use but why not if the motor is already dissasembaled that much??? good luck read read read..NO VAFC or FMU hacks!!! just my Opinion good luck
Modified by I got the CD5 Jeebies! at 2:50 PM 6/14/2006


