After the second time I ordered new bolts. Unfortunately, I think that the dealer gave me automatic bolts because they appeared to be shorter than the originals. I even used red locktite and they were tightened to spec.

The question is are there any aftermarket longer h22 flywheel bolts available? I will have a shop do the work this time for about $450.

 

send one to arp and they will make you a set.

 

so u procceeded to install the auto flexplate bolts even though they were too short?

 

What'd you torque them to? Should have been 76 lb ft

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EsQueue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After the second time I ordered new bolts. Unfortunately, I think that the dealer gave me automatic bolts because they appeared to be shorter than the originals. I even used red locktite and they were tightened to spec.

The question is are there any aftermarket longer h22 flywheel bolts available? I will have a shop do the work this time for about $450. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Use the right bolts and they shouldn't back out. Did you use the red lock-tite the first time around? Did you torque them in the proper sequence?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EsQueue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I even used red locktite and they were tightened to spec.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


i'm just wondering what spec?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm just wondering what spec?</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW, next time you're going to have to clean out the old loctite before torquing the new bolts in. Did you torque in the proper sequence and specs?

 

lol yea auto bolt wont be good for anyone

 

There's no. way. in. hell. that you followed the proper procedures and still had a problem with bolts backing off.

the only time I have heard of this happening is when people tighten the flywheel bolts without locking the flywheel.

maybe you used in-lbs instead of ft-lbs.. ?

the thread pitch they use is extreemly rare. It's not worth the time and effort to locate some bolts. just get the right ones from the dealership and get it done right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's no. way. in. hell. that you followed the proper procedures and still had a problem with bolts backing off.

the only time I have heard of this happening is when people tighten the flywheel bolts without locking the flywheel.

maybe you used in-lbs instead of ft-lbs.. ?

the thread pitch they use is extreemly rare. It's not worth the time and effort to locate some bolts. just get the right ones from the dealership and get it done right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's true. I had a customer once that had his bolts back out. It turned out he was running a crankshaft pulley that looked like someone took a hammer to it. An unbalanced pulley will send harmonic vibrations through the crank thus causing the bolts to back out... or even spin bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a crankshaft pulley that looked like someone took a hammer to it. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

one would hope that someone could put two and two together in this case though. In a perfect world, everyone would know about harmonics and resonance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

one would hope that someone could put two and two together in this case though. In a perfect world, everyone would know about harmonics and resonance. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No joke. I even told the guy DO NOT use this crank pulley... he ended up spinning bearings on that set-up and having to rebuild it again.

 

Wow, lots of responses.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What'd you torque them to? Should have been 76 lb ft</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, they were torqued to 76 lb ft.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW, next time you're going to have to clean out the old loctite before torquing the new bolts in. Did you torque in the proper sequence and specs? </TD></TR></TABLE>
I torqued them properly. 1-4-7-2-5-8-3-6 respectively. But I didn't clean out the old loctite though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just get the right ones from the dealership and get it done right. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Unfortunately, I can't trust the dealer now because they are the ones who gave me the wrong ones in the first place when I specifically told them that this is a M/T.

The reason I installed them anyway was because the car broke down on my way to work. The flywheel was off so much, I couldn't disengage the clutch. Thank god my power to weight ratio was good enough to allow me to start the car while in first after every stop. I had to repair it in their parking lot or get it towed. It took the stealership days to get in the wrong part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EsQueue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Unfortunately, I can't trust the dealer now because they are the ones who gave me the wrong ones in the first place when I specifically told them that this is a M/T.

The reason I installed them anyway was because the car broke down on my way to work. The flywheel was off so much, I couldn't disengage the clutch. Thank god my power to weight ratio was good enough to allow me to start the car while in first after every stop. I had to repair it in their parking lot or get it towed. It took the stealership days to get in the wrong part.</TD></TR></TABLE>

All OEM parts come in a bag with part numbers.

http://www.slhondaparts.com/

Find your part number, place the order, get the parts, make sure they are the right ones by cross referencing them. It's as simple as that.

 

How do you know if they get loose?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMbullshit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know if they get loose?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, when you have to chase your flywheel down the street! J/K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All OEM parts come in a bag with part numbers.

http://www.slhondaparts.com/

Find your part number, place the order, get the parts, make sure they are the right ones by cross referencing them. It's as simple as that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The part number on my reciept was correct. When the bolts were compared to the old ones, they were noticably shorter. That is the reason why I said I got screwed by a dealership.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMbullshit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do you know if they get loose?</TD></TR></TABLE>When some of mine did this on my 3rd gen engine, the engine would engage funny. Basically, the bolts where engaging the clutch making the car move before the clutch would engage against the flywheel. Makes a weird sound too...

4 of my 8 had become loose. I had a shop do an engine swap when I first bought the lude. From that point on, I've always done my own engine work and never had a problem since then...

 

I've always just impacted them on, but alot of people here are prolly against that.

I've never had one even close to being loose as they are usually more of a bitch to get off than anything.

 

The last time I looked the Automatic FW bolts actually have "AT" on the bolt head. Clear bags and simle visual inspection can save you some trouble in that regard. I never had any issues on the lengines I've built. Torque to spec and use loctite. If all else fails try drilling holes in the bolt heads and safety wire them into posiiton.

Pirate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EsQueue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The part number on my reciept was correct. When the bolts were compared to the old ones, they were noticably shorter. That is the reason why I said I got screwed by a dealership.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's why you look at the part number ON THE BAG.

 

same thing happened to me twice i just torque it to 90 pounds in stead