Modified by lv6l at 1:07 AM 8/23/2006

 

the highest avaliable, 91/93 pump is good.

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:07 AM 8/23/2006

 

yes....

 

So they're burning a basemap for you? You shouldn't really boost much on that anyways, so if you're not boosting then go ahead and run 87 til you get tuned *shrug*

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:08 AM 8/23/2006

 

Like I said, dont boost on a basemap, expecially on 87 octane, it will ping I promise you.

 

You can drain the fuel out of the tank...or if u havent put ur turbo stuff on the car yet...wait til you get the ecu back....and disconect the j1 jumper, that will run it off the stock map ecu and drive the gas off til its empty...

Call and ask phearble if he can install a jumper male and female connector...makes it easier then to unsolder it out...its just a plug and play connector! comes handy...

or just dont boost like stated above!

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:08 AM 8/23/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lv6l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh i see. i can add any octane booster until the next tank then i'll start pumping 91 octane fuel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:08 AM 8/23/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lv6l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh which ones are good? or which ones do you think i should get?</TD></TR></TABLE>just make sure you do not boost on the basemap. that basemap is just a bandaid to get you to your tuner.

Once again, you cannot boost on 87 octane fuel either, and if you add an octane booster, you have no idea how much it actually is bumping the octane and you have no idea how it will react to forced induction.

I reccomend draining the 87 and using it in something else and just filling up with 93.

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:08 AM 8/23/2006

 

read man! dont boost until tuned!

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:09 AM 8/23/2006

 

Modified by lv6l at 1:09 AM 8/23/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lv6l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of course i want to tune it. but 1, i'm short on cash, and 2 there is no crome tuners around my area. if anyone know any PM me. hondata is just too expensive. but just curious, can anyone tell me a roughly price of how much it'll cost to tune? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously you are being really irresponsible.
It costs money to boost! Having the apprpriate tune setup in your budget is part of putting together a turbo Honda.
150/hr is ussually the standard for a dyno tune and it will take 2hours ussually.

Do NOT boost AT ALLl until both these conditions are met:
1. ECU is tuned, not just a basemap
2. You have 91 octane in your tanks

PS don't get it tuned on your 87 either

 

If you don't have the money to get it tuned, you don't have the money to rebuild the motor when you toss a rod through the side of the block because it knocked on a basemap.

 

ok.
but do anyone know any tuner around my area?? orange county/714.
i dont know anyone that knows tuners around my area. so a lot of people are running it ghetto. i dont mine leaving it on jackstand and waiting for some cash, but i still dont know any tuners.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcturbols &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Do NOT boost AT ALLl until both these conditions are met:
1. ECU is tuned, not just a basemap
2. You have 91 octane in your tanks

PS don't get it tuned on your 87 either </TD></TR></TABLE>

so you should send out your ECU to get it tuned and then when you get it back, don't drive your car with that ecu until the boosting is complete right? aka: no driving with a tuned ECU unless the car is already boosted to the same specs, right? (cause otherwise it would run like **** N/A with the tuned ECU)

-but u can get an ECU tuned according to stock specs N/A too if u wanted, correct? to run a little better i guess?

 

if your saving for a tune you might want to start saving for another motor also

here is a good articale for you to read: http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm

 

all of you trying to tell him how to do this, you do know as soon as he gets his ecu back he's gunna plug it in and go drive like a psychopath, and completely disregard everything you've told him...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all of you trying to tell him how to do this, you do know as soon as he gets his ecu back he's gunna plug it in and go drive like a psychopath, and completely disregard everything you've told him...</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol... sad but true..... HT the land where people ask questions and totally disregard everything they where told

**waiting for the I blew my motor up and why did it happen thread**

 

two dumb questions:

1. say you have an LS or some B16, and you want to boost about i dunno, 6-8 psi, whats the best route to go for ecu/fuel mgmt. stuff? i keep hearing so many diff ones and iv e looked into them, but i havent found one final answer on which one is best to do for those conditions.

2. (real dumb question, but i gotta learn it somewhere) is PSI the same as pounds of boost? (does 6 psi=6 lbs of boost?)

 

what do you think psi stands for lol, its pounds per square inch, as a unit of pressure... it can also be expressed as bars which 1 bar is equivalent to ~14.5psi. So yes pounds of boost is the same as psi