I wanted to get people's firsthand experience on the limits of the STOCK LS rods.
Will they hold in a <U>230-240whp</U> B20, with ARP bolts, a 12.5 compression ratio, and 9000 revs?

I was told from engine builders that, as long as you run the (main) bearing clearances on the loose side, use good thick oil, have ARP bolts, and don't boost the engine. STOCK LS rods will hold up.

Can anyone vouch?

Has anyone seen an actual LS rod break (the actual rod and not the rod bolts) in an all motor application?

thanks for the input



Modified by vtecjj at 9:25 AM 6/13/2006

 

I would also like to know.

 

so think about this.. if you are making 230whp you would have to spend a good deal of money on pistons, head, and cams. what will 300 more dollars do? so you put stock ls rods in......... maybe they will hold. not likely unless you keep the revs under 8k.. which im sure you wont. why would you want to take a chance in destroying the rest of your engine? buy some 300 dollar eagle rods or scat or econo crower.. something.. be smart dont be a retard..

so your engine builder is saying loose main bearings will make your rods stronger? any real engine builder would see what you are spending and advise against using a oem rod like the ls.

If you were using something like a gsr or type r or even a b16a rod you could probably get away with it.. the ls rods is not a very strong stock piece.


shawn

 

Agreed to a certent extent but, I have seen alot of stock block boosted 300+ horsepower ls engines and hold up for years.

But me personally i would just but some $300 dollar eagle rods and build as much N/A hosepower as you like.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HYBRID FREAK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Agreed to a certent extent but, I have seen alot of stock block boosted 300+ horsepower ls engines and hold up for years.

But me personally i would just but some $300 dollar eagle rods and build as much N/A hosepower as you like.</TD></TR></TABLE>

with a boosted engine you dont have to rev.. keeping it uder 7500 is easy. i believe you can make 300hp on a stock rod. is it reliable? if you are lucky it could be.. chances of breaking a rod are pretty good with one good detonation.. if you are already in there and replacing the pistons you should upgrage the rods. ls rods are weak. breaking a rod can ruin your whole engine. the 300 dollars is like insurance for the rest of your engine.


shawn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would you want to take a chance in destroying the rest of your engine? be smart dont be a retard..

shawn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really being a retard...I race in a Honda Challenge, and we can't use any kind of aftermarket parts in the block. I'm still debating on whether or not to use the LS crank/rods or to throw the GSR/Type R crank/rods in the B20 block. By using the LS crank and rods, I have 40cc more.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your engine builder is saying loose main bearings will make your rods stronger? any real engine builder would see what you are spending and advise against using a oem rod like the ls.

shawn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the person who suggests to keep the LS rods and keep the LS stroke over the GSR/Type R crank rods, is pretty prominent on the east coast. I won't explicitly quote him or give up his name, but his shop/business is three initials, begins with a "R" and ends with a "Z".
He's not saying looser mains makes the rods stronger, he's saying it'll be less stress on the rods. I still would consider him a "REAL" engine builder.
thx for the input.

 

definitelty opt for the gsr/typer crank and rods if it will be a road race engine in the h1 class. what piston are you planning on using to get 12.5:1 compression?


shawn

 

If you want to keep the LS rods, at least have them shot-peened.

 

acydphryck made 244whp on a b20 vtec wit itr replica pistons wit stock b20 resixed rods wit arp rod bolts. i tried to find his post for u but i cant. put if u pm hime hell talk to u about it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr0honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">definitelty opt for the gsr/typer crank and rods if it will be a road race engine in the h1 class. what piston are you planning on using to get 12.5:1 compression?


shawn</TD></TR></TABLE>

85mm oem honda pistons, + mild shaving on the head

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC4KiD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to keep the LS rods, at least have them shot-peened.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, if I do use the stock LS rods, I plan to peen them and magnaflux them too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20powereDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">acydphryck made 244whp on a b20 vtec wit itr replica pistons wit stock b20 resixed rods wit arp rod bolts. i tried to find his post for u but i cant. put if u pm hime hell talk to u about it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

heh...Nick M locked the thread and then stuck it out in the middle of nowhere...my dyno sheet is already played out anyway LOL!!!

 

maybe he was jealous cause you made more power than him

that explains alot i just got my 84.5mm pistons and was looking for your thread.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCushing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe he was jealous cause you made more power than him

that explains alot i just got my 84.5mm pistons and was looking for your thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh...it's a good motor for daily driving for sure. my thread got locked and got put out in the b00nies somewhere...i'm debating whether or not to post up another one