Hey whats up guys. Ive got that jumpy idle thing going on with an accord i just picked up. I bled the cooling system and it actually got worse. I've read the other threds and will try all the tips but my thing is this. While its doing the funky idle up and down thing it makes a popping sound every once and a while. it will idle between 1000 and 1500 and then when th eidle comes to 1000 it makes the pop and then idles between 1000 and 2500. sounds kinda like a backfire or misfire but just a hair different, thats why i ask if anyone has experienced this before?

 

Dunno about the popping sound, but the idle is most definitely a dirty IACV, FITV or a vacuum leak. FIRST check your vacuum lines, and clean the valves using carb cleaner.
However, in my case it is an altogether faulty FITV.
If you are certain you've no leaks etc, you can check if it is the FITV: simply unplug the IACV with the engine running: the rpm should dip slightly and it should throw a CEL = good IACV, something with the FITV.

Good luck solving that problem!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jszuba &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dunno about the popping sound, but the idle is most definitely a dirty IACV, FITV or a vacuum leak. FIRST check your vacuum lines, and clean the valves using carb cleaner.
However, in my case it is an altogether faulty FITV.
If you are certain you've no leaks etc, you can check if it is the FITV: simply unplug the IACV with the engine running: the rpm should dip slightly and it should throw a CEL = good IACV, something with the FITV.

Good luck solving that problem!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Someone else that seems to know what they are talking about.
Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Idle Air Control Valve
Only thing that should have been explained better

 

nos i know the iacv. its on the front of the intake manifold. then it loops to another thing on the front of the intake manifold. the other thing is that this fast idle thermal valve your speakign of? it has new hoses going to it which to me seems liek maybe they have been cleaned already. but ill take them both off today and clean them and see what happens.

I read in one thred you can take the top off the FITV and turn the bolt to adjust it? SOunds kinda fishy to me though, but then again i dont even know what that is so he could be right. Im used to just the IACV that is on my b series and thst it.

Thanks for your input guys, ill try those thinsg and see what happens.

 

Yup, that's the one!
Sorry, I should have been more descriptive
You're right, adjusting the screw in the thermo valve is kind of fishy - I did it, and all it did was narrow the band within which the rpm fluctated ie. not 500-1500 but 600-1000 and much quicker too. Besides, I read somewhere that the thermo valve is factory adjusted.
Oh oh! And one more thing! Make sure you get new seals for the valves - they do go brittle after 13 years and thus may also give you a leak.

 

I Have this problem right now, it started after i replaced my distributor

Its the timing, And also the idle up and down this is a coolant temperature sensor

 

Did the coolant temp sensor throw a code? When the car is cold it idles ok, after a min of idle it starts the up and down but slight then she gets normal operating temp and its up and down 1000 to 2500 and then 1000 to 1500 then back up


Took everything apart and cleaned it all, idle still was nuts, tightend up the idle screw and it idles like a charm. all that work for nothign because i just could have turned the screw HAHAHAHA. well cars runnign mint with ice cold air.

Anyone looking to buy a 93 accord lx stick ?


Modified by Turbo-LS at 3:14 PM 6/11/2006

 

Great to know you got it!

I wish I had such luck with the idle screw...