Hey all, I have a few Q's about DOT 5 Brake Fluid.

1. Does it really have a higher boiling point?
2. Silicon-based, so it's "supposed" to be more paint friendly - is this true?
3. Did any of you running DOT 5 see any REAL benefits from it?
4. What brand(s) is/are the best? Thinking MOTUL, but need it sooner, so I might have to get some other DOT 5 **** from the local Honda Bike dealer.
5. Any downsides besides price? I saw $8.99 for 12fl.oz.
6. I am completely filling up a completely dry system. FULL bleed and all. How much fluid you guys think it will take?

That's about it. This is for my daily driven Civic hatch with swap and GS-R brakes at all 4 corners, stainless lines, Slotted Brembo rotors, Integra Booster, and Integra RS non-ABS master cylinder.

I don't care about the price as long as there are true benefits in the slightest way. Even the milder effects on paint (if true) would be enough for me to buy it. Sounds retarded I know, but I'm trying to keep the car as nice as possible for as long as possible.

I figured posting here would be a good idea since I'm sure some of you have tried DOT 5 fluid for your competition vehicles.

Thanks!

 

You didn't ask the one question that probably matters most, since you are talking about a street car...

DOT5 fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere more quickly than the more "lowly" forms. It is a compromise toward a higher boiling point, that assumes you will bleed your brakes often to get the old fluid out of there. Either consider using less-fancy fluid (I am partial to the Ford HD stuff that a lot of racers use) or sell the slotted rotors, buy OEM parts, and use the difference to replace your fluid more often.

Have fun!

Kirk

 

i'll take a stab at a few of these- or at least point you in the right direction

1 read this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=160493- it lists all the dry/wet bp fro various fluids

2 not flaming here, but who cares about paint friendly? just don't pour it all over your hood

3 read the thread in #1 my preference is motul rbf 600

4 i don't think motul rbf 600 is dot5 and i'm 99.9% sure it isn't silicone based

5 if you're talking motul - it's hydroscopic so it absorbs water and needs to be bled frequently. also it can be tough to find at times around ATL - you can always get it online but shipping is kinda pricey ($8+ for 2 $12 bottles)

6 2 bottles (1 liter total ) does me fine. maybe get 3 just to have a spare if it's your 1st time

 

I know you've got good intentions, but I think you might be going a little over the top.

On a street driven car, I just can't imagine that you're using the brakes THAT hard. Any driving (on the street) hard enough to boil off something like Vavoline Synthetic Dot 3/4 is highly unsafe anyway. Remember that better fluid won't make you stop better, it's just to protect against overheating.

As mentioned, "race" fluids absorb water faster and could actually lead to worse pedal feel. You might be willing to do the maintenance.. ie: bleeds and flushes, but you have to ask yourself what the point is.

 

"you can always get it online but shipping is kinda pricey ($8+ for 2 $12 bottles) "

I get my motul rbf600 for 8.50 a bottle at http://www.mach1motorsports.com

I walk in and buy it, so I don't know what their shipping costs are.

 

Current Synthetic is DOT 5.1 glycol, and Silicone Synthetic is DOT 5 and are not synonymous, silicone came out in the '80's, i.e. that purple GE stuff. It's very squishy (compressible, like soft jello; yes in a fluid) due to its easy and lasting aeration (bubbles) ability.

It was designed for museum cars that don't get much use, to keep the internal brake components from corroding because it doesn't absorb moisture. Problem is that in a street car then moisture buildup from outdoor exposure/use isn't absorbed, instead collecting and causing rust, along with the squishy issue affecting the ABS.

DOT 3/4/5.1 glycol fluids all absorb moisture in suspension, and need to be changed somewhat regularly (yearly) to prevent pedal failure due to the lowered boiling point allowing possible gasification in the caliper. All are mix compatible, just flush out most of the old fluid. Do NOT use ATE Blue (200 Gold instead) if you autocross in Stock class. Motul is fine but expensive. Anything under $12/litre like ATE is good.

 

Dot 5 is also incompatible with dot 3/4/5.1 and MOST brake systems...

you are much better off using 5.1 like motul

 

Why the hell not? I've been doing it for a long time...

 

Me thinks the pretty blue fluid knocks you out of stock class.

 

Okay, so DOT 5 is out IMO.

I do not care how much the fluid costs, and I was contemplating MOTUL RBF600 since i can walk in and buy it at the local Honda Bike dealer, but does it need to be bled frequently too?

I looked at the link above and noticed good boiling points for the RBF600, but if it's high maintenance like bleeding a lot I'm not for thT.

Anyone?

Thanks so much fot the help thus far - I REALLY appreciate it!

 

*ahem* repeat....

Why?

Ryan - who just doesnt get it.



[Modified by Type-RJ, 3:26 PM 4/16/2002]

 

Just got with the ATE TYP200 or whatever the gold equivalent of the blue is, or the superblue. Or the valvoline stuff (its cheap and you can get it anywhere). The ATE will be sufficient for track events if you are considering those, just bleed before/after each session (same as with the motul)

RJ

 

Pretty blue (hey is that good for ricers) is not DOT legal, therefore not legal for SCCA Stock class, not that anyone is petty enough to protest you out for that. FWIW, ATE is dropping SuperBlue because of that, only Gold Type 200 from now on.

ATE is the best choice for extended changes because the moisture absorption rate is among the slowest.


[Modified by 4WDrift, 4:02 PM 4/16/2002]

 

Yes but fluids are free. Who cares if its not DOT-approved because of the color?

If i were ever protested for this, i think i'd die laughing. That would have to be #1 on the weenie protest list.

Ryan - who thinks that rule sucks *** and wont stop using superblue because of it. he also thinks it tastes good.

 

The ATE "amber" is less filling.

 

Hmm... but is it the "champagne" of brake fluid?

Ryan - who like the 'champagne of beers', miller high life

 

Actually, despite the azure hue, ATE Super Blue is quite understated, a bit dry, but definitely gamy, like a good Baco Noir.

ATE "amber" is very similar but slightly less balanced, more tannic.

For the adventuresome, Castrol SRF is extremely tart but has an superb finish, and JUST the right sapor of oak, like a well aged chardonnay.

Racing Brake fluid: It's not just good with fish anymore.

 

While Ford HD is dry, bland, has little flavor and is quite acidic. Definately the rotgut of racing brake fluid.

RJ

 

Dude, that Saturn got a better time than me because he has blue brake fluid, and it's not DOT approved to boot. I contest.

 

Okay, besides the great tastes of the various fluids, what do you guys think would be the best overall fluid in terms of boiling points and frequency of bleeding and whatnot?

Let me also add that this car is my daily driver as stated before, but I also will be auto-Xing every chance I get and hopefully it will serve me well at various track events as well.

I know that I might not be able to get an "absolute best" in both categories, but I just want the best all-around fluid. Is the Valvoline Syntthetic 3/4 stuff really good?

I just want to have the best possible brake fluid in my car because I know I am hard on my car in general, and surely on the brakes.

Thanks again for the help!

 

ATE Super Blue period. It is all you will ever need. It can last a long time too (6 months). But Gary/4WDrift says they're discontinuing it?
Gary, does the Type 200 have the same specs as the Super Blue?

 

Discontinuing? Hmm... i did hear that OG racing will only be carrying the Gold from now on...

 

If you got beat by my girlfriend driving my car @ FedEx dont get all upset

Ryan - who thinks it kicks *** that his girl finished 15/21 in STS and 15/26 in Novice on her first ever autoX in my bone stock SC2

 

Nah, I'm getting my *** kicked in SM.

 

at least your out there trying dude....