Do I need 220V for a starter MIG?
I've searched and searched, and it seems that everybody has their own opinion based on THEIR usage about whether to step up to 220V for a MIG.
I'd probably be doing light stuff with it, 1/8" or less most times, and I'd probably not use the welder more than a few times a month max(just a hobby). The biggest thing I think I could see myself doing would be maybe a rollbar in the future or some thinner aluminum stuff.
I have 20A 115V breakers in my garage, and a 220V 30A breaker for the dryer that is only about 15-20 ft from the door to the garage, so an extension cord to that would probably be just fine for the 220V MIGs I'm considering(Hobart 180 or Clarke 180EN). It doesn't seem like the rated thickness of material really goes up on the 220V machines, just that more people have trouble popping 15A 115V breakers when they do thicker stuff. Is it a case of actually being able to use the max capacity of the machine and a higher dutycycle than the "ratings" going up?
My situation definitely lets me use a 220V welder, but I guess the portability of the 115V stuff is somewhat attractive for small jobs at friend's houses.
Are there 220V "splitter outlets" available that give you two outlets to plug into so you don't have to climb behind the dryer and unplug it everytime you weld? I looked and couldn't find anything.
Another quick question, why are spoolguns needed for aluminum? I don't really understand their purpose I guess. Is the aluminum wire less ductile than steel so you can't have a long run of it?
I'd probably be doing light stuff with it, 1/8" or less most times, and I'd probably not use the welder more than a few times a month max(just a hobby). The biggest thing I think I could see myself doing would be maybe a rollbar in the future or some thinner aluminum stuff.
I have 20A 115V breakers in my garage, and a 220V 30A breaker for the dryer that is only about 15-20 ft from the door to the garage, so an extension cord to that would probably be just fine for the 220V MIGs I'm considering(Hobart 180 or Clarke 180EN). It doesn't seem like the rated thickness of material really goes up on the 220V machines, just that more people have trouble popping 15A 115V breakers when they do thicker stuff. Is it a case of actually being able to use the max capacity of the machine and a higher dutycycle than the "ratings" going up?
My situation definitely lets me use a 220V welder, but I guess the portability of the 115V stuff is somewhat attractive for small jobs at friend's houses.
Are there 220V "splitter outlets" available that give you two outlets to plug into so you don't have to climb behind the dryer and unplug it everytime you weld? I looked and couldn't find anything.
Another quick question, why are spoolguns needed for aluminum? I don't really understand their purpose I guess. Is the aluminum wire less ductile than steel so you can't have a long run of it?
I would recommend a 220 Mig because you WILL want to do something a bit thicker than what your 110 would be able to do, and having that capability is nice. A spoolgun is used with aluminum because the aluminum wire is very soft and doesnt feed well through the liner on a push only feed system.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




