ok i'm trying to take apart my fornt end of my parts car and i'm losing. i can't broke loose the alxe bolt. i've broken a SOLID e/4 in curve bar i got in a jack for tires. i've re bent my 3/4 in rachet(thank god i belt it years ago trying to get sumthing loose for got work) and i jsut went and bought a 24'' 3/4 in drive. and broke that too. i'm gong to replace that for free. but i'm getting sick of this it's not even bugeing what can i do.

 

Just cut it and be done dude.

 

to be a little more specific, just dremel a slit down the side of the nut and split it if its giving you this much trouble.

breaker bars with a decent cheater USUALLY gets it loose for me. but ive lost my share of battles in the past. ive had to replace my 1/2" drive tools before too. craftsman

now i just stick a 10mm wrench in the vanes of the rotor to lock the hub and use a breaker bar with a cheater bar (jack handle if im at home, or muffler pipe if im at the junkyard).

 

i want to save the alxe. and how much of a cheater you think i need. the break bar is 24'' long

 

im talking 4 feet, minimum.

splitting the nut wont destroy the axle...

 

dam man to break that nut loose u need hammering force, not constant pressure.

impact gun..

or take a breaker bar and SMASH it with a sledge...

if that dont work u gotta grind it off, say by by to the axle

 

I had this problem and I think i came up with the coolest (if not the dumbest) solution.
I assume it's a nut you can get to with the wheel still on the car (you can see the nut through the center plastic cover thingy).
Now with the car on the ground, put the breaker bar and socket on the nut, and point the breaker bar straight up.
Now, i used a wire coat-hanger, but do something to more or less attach this setup to the car (wrap the wire coat hanger around the breaker bar and rim, for example).
Now put the car in neutral and, take off the parking break and PUUUUUUUUUUSH. You should get some momentum going and when that breaker bar hits the ground -- somethings gotta give.
In my case, it was the nut (after soaking it with PB blaster, of course).
To be honest, I actually ended up starting the car and driving it like that to break it free -- but to each his own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kudude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem and I think i came up with the coolest (if not the dumbest) solution.
I assume it's a nut you can get to with the wheel still on the car (you can see the nut through the center plastic cover thingy).
Now with the car on the ground, put the breaker bar and socket on the nut, and point the breaker bar straight up.
Now, i used a wire coat-hanger, but do something to more or less attach this setup to the car (wrap the wire coat hanger around the breaker bar and rim, for example).
Now put the car in neutral and, take off the parking break and PUUUUUUUUUUSH. You should get some momentum going and when that breaker bar hits the ground -- somethings gotta give.
In my case, it was the nut (after soaking it with PB blaster, of course).
To be honest, I actually ended up starting the car and driving it like that to break it free -- but to each his own.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i thought of that but i've alredy borke a breaker bar.

and i was bouncing on it not jsut pushing but it jsut didn't move.

 

have you coated it w/ some sort of penetrate over the last day or two? also, have you tried heat (acetylene is best, but sometimes propane helps). Just to warn you PB blaster is HIGHLY flammable, but fun.

 

32mm socket and air gun FTW.

 

no air if i did i would use it all the time. and no i havn';t tryed pb blaster but i will next time i try to mess with it. i'm going to get another breaker bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joeny12985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no air if i did i would use it all the time. and no i havn';t tryed pb blaster but i will next time i try to mess with it. i'm going to get another breaker bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>

drive car to shop, have shop break any rust from said nut by shooting the nut off, have shop put nut back on, go home, use breaker bar. problem solved

 

it's his parts car, man. if this is the first thing he's taking off of it, fine. but if i know parts cars it's missing all sorts of things which would be important in driving it to a shop (like license and registration, along with say, a working engine)


Modified by kudude at 4:48 PM 6/6/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kudude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's his parts car, man. if this is the first thing he's taking off of it, fine. but if i know parts cars it's missing all sorts of things which would be important in driving it to a shop (like license and registration, along with say, a working engine)</TD></TR></TABLE>

pfft, yu0 dont need no stinking registration. . fine, pop the whole knuckle off with the axle, take the knuckle to the shop, have them shoot off the nut. simple.

 

Invest in an electric impact. I know it sounds gay, but they DO break those nuts right off, no problem. I've used them before and I was very surprised it took off the original nut off the orignial automatic axles that, for adleast 3 years of owning the car, had not budged.

 

Forget the breaker bars.

Go to home depot and get 4' piece of steel pipe. Make sure its big enough for you to get your socket wrench in there.

Also, did you bend the notches out of the nut?

If this fails, go back to homedepot or lowes, get a compressor, get an impact gun. Remove the bolt. Then drive back to home depot and return the two items. I did this twice before I got my own setup.

 

that sound like a good idea but i dont even have the extra cash to buy it in the first play or the credit. and how much you think a sho would want to break it loose? i would drive it but i have no exhaust and the brakes are gone.(havn't look at them it's a parts car for now.)


temp i know you have to have sum real way to get it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joeny12985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that sound like a good idea but i dont even have the extra cash to buy it in the first play or the credit. and how much you think a sho would want to break it loose? i would drive it but i have no exhaust and the brakes are gone.(havn't look at them it's a parts car for now.)


temp i know you have to have sum real way to get it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i already suggested a way. take off the knuckle w/ axle still attached, take knuckle w/ axle attached to shop, have shop shoot off the nut.

 

that's what i'am going to do. the front is in the air that's all i have to do is start to undo everything. how much should a gagarge charge to have bushings press into the front? just the pressing?

 

have you tried heat yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joeny12985 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's what i'am going to do. the front is in the air that's all i have to do is start to undo everything. how much should a gagarge charge to have bushings press into the front? just the pressing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

all they will do is shoot off the nut, thats it, most places are cool and wont charge you **** for that since its already off the car.

 

dude, just use a 1/2 ratchet, not breaker bar, breaker bars tend to flex a little, ratchets do not. Put a 4 foot pipe on that bad boy and you should be good to go. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sixty-seven point six &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, just use a 1/2 ratchet, not breaker bar, breaker bars tend to flex a little, ratchets do not. Put a 4 foot pipe on that bad boy and you should be good to go. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but we used a like a 14 ft pipe....watch out for overhead power lines

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by looxs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but we used a like a 14 ft pipe....watch out for overhead power lines </TD></TR></TABLE>

practicing for the pole vaulting competition?

 

i've tried a rachet and i bent my back straight i bent it before i think i was taking my axle off my lumina i used to have. dont remember but i was able to bend it back straight. that was after i already broke the solid peace of medal was using first.


i'm jsut going to take the knunkle off hopefully they can get the rotor off too. the screw are welded on


yes i've tryed heat as well. and pb blaster