Brake bleeding with pressure bleeder
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Formerly WI, now back in NorCal and everywhere else
I've been having a hard time getting my brakes to feel the way they used to after switching to mesh lines and installing new pads and rotors. Someone suggested using a pressure bleeder. I've done a search here on honda-tech and come up with nothing. Is this what they are talking about? If so, how is it used. Is there a lower price alternative. $500 is kind of steep.
http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/search...e=snapon-store
http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/search...e=snapon-store
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Formerly WI, now back in NorCal and everywhere else
Snap-on has a similar one to this that they call a non-diapham bleeder. Is there much difference in operation or results. The non-diapham ones are a lot cheaper.
I own one, and think they are too much of a hassle to use for a quick bleed. But, if you're doing a full flush, they work well.
The biggest complaint is getting a good seal on the rubber cap. If the seal isn't tight, you have quite a mess on your hands. (Don't ask me how I know.)
-Floyd
The biggest complaint is getting a good seal on the rubber cap. If the seal isn't tight, you have quite a mess on your hands. (Don't ask me how I know.)
-Floyd
BTW, I don't think using a different bleeder will solve your problem. The old fashioned pedal pumping method should provide a good bleed. These other devices are simply there to make bleeding easier.
Just my .02
Just my .02
I use the Motive products pressure pump w/ universal adapter. True, if you just want to bleed the system, the old fashion pump and open method works just fine. As for a full flush, the pressure pumps is a lot easier to work with
Just make sure you seat the adapter correctly. Pump it up to a certain psi and listen for leaks and tighten as needed. Have yet to have an accident, knock on wood.
Just make sure you seat the adapter correctly. Pump it up to a certain psi and listen for leaks and tighten as needed. Have yet to have an accident, knock on wood.
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I recently bought a Motive pressure bleeder. The thing works great. True it may take a couple of tries to get the universal cap sealed right, but after that it works slick!
I have tried the two person pump and hold bleed method and the pressure bleeder worked faster for me. It seemed like I was pumping and bleeding forever before I got decent pedal pressure.
The trick to sealing the univeral cap seems to be putting the cap on "at an angle".
Not straight across the master cylinder, but at 10 & 4 o' clock for instance.
I have tried the two person pump and hold bleed method and the pressure bleeder worked faster for me. It seemed like I was pumping and bleeding forever before I got decent pedal pressure.
The trick to sealing the univeral cap seems to be putting the cap on "at an angle".
Not straight across the master cylinder, but at 10 & 4 o' clock for instance.
Could you not buy a cap from Honda, and mod it to attach to the pressure bleeder. That way there wouldn't be a problem in getting a good seal?
Just curious.?
Just curious.?
Could you not buy a cap from Honda, and mod it to attach to the pressure bleeder. That way there wouldn't be a problem in getting a good seal?
Just curious.?
Just curious.?
CB
I've got one of those MightyVac pumps that you describe. They work fine, but for an entire system flush, it's a lotta pumpin', let me tell ya. When you're by yourself, though, it is pretty much the only option (if you don't have a pressurized system).
The only thing I can say I don't like about the hand pump (other than the fact that you have to pump by hand
) is that the seal at the bleeder is not always optimal, so you may see some bubbles - even though you have no air left in the system. I'm sure they is a way to remedy that, I just don't bleed my brakes often enough to worry about it - I guess that's a bad thing, it means I don't hit the track often enough.
The only thing I can say I don't like about the hand pump (other than the fact that you have to pump by hand
) is that the seal at the bleeder is not always optimal, so you may see some bubbles - even though you have no air left in the system. I'm sure they is a way to remedy that, I just don't bleed my brakes often enough to worry about it - I guess that's a bad thing, it means I don't hit the track often enough.
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From: Formerly WI, now back in NorCal and everywhere else
I used a vac bleeder once when I needed to bleed brakes at the track. I used one that came from Griot's, and while it looked slick and seemed to work pretty cool, my brakes felt worse than before I bled them. That one experience was enough to turn me off to vac bleeders. Come to think of it, I'm not sure if it just didn't work well or if I wasn't using it 100% correctly. I was even checking the seals on the head that goes over the bleed nipple. But, if it wasn't sealing right I don't think it would have been sucking fluid out of the calipers. I just wasn't impressed.
By the way, what is a N24RE?
By the way, what is a N24RE?
Positive pressure bleeders work the best. It's not that hard to make. Go to Home Depot and get the smallest garden pressurized spray bottle, rubber cap, clamps. Put them together and you have a home made pressure bleeder.
CB
CB
Positive pressure bleeders work the best. It's not that hard to make. Go to Home Depot and get the smallest garden pressurized spray bottle, rubber cap, clamps. Put them together and you have a home made pressure bleeder.
I just got one of these pressure bleeders and was wondering if the one intended for the Honda is a universal one that is held on with the J-bolts and chain or is it one that screws on? I was under the impression that it would take a screw on type cap.
I think that this product is really good because you can do it yourself and actually see if there are any bubbles instead of looking across the car with a one-man one way valve setup. I don't really like the vacuum type because air can be sucked in near the nipple which can give erroneous readings. No air can be introduced using the pressure type unless you let the pressure vessel run out and/or the reservoir run empty.
I think that this product is really good because you can do it yourself and actually see if there are any bubbles instead of looking across the car with a one-man one way valve setup. I don't really like the vacuum type because air can be sucked in near the nipple which can give erroneous readings. No air can be introduced using the pressure type unless you let the pressure vessel run out and/or the reservoir run empty.
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