Ok, I'll try and be as thorough while keeping it as brief as possible.
98 Prelude, JDM H22A swap
98 Distributor/IGN coil
Factory wiring

Swapped engines, getting fuel, immobilizer unit is fine, there is no spark.
So far I have:
Put in a new IGN coil
Swapped Distributors
Swapped ICM (Ignition control module/distributor ignitor) and bought a new one just to be sure...
Put in a new cap/rotor
Tested plug wires
New Plugs, gapped correctly

The distributor (and ecu) was working fine (engine was running--low compression) when I took it out less than a month ago...
The ECU is getting power and the main relay works
Grounds are good
+12v IGN at distributor and coil
The wire from ECU to Distributor has continuity, is not grounded anywhere or cut, same for Tach sense (blue) wire.

I've posted at absoluteprelude.com for help...but haven't come up with a solution yet--just that ECU may be bad...it just wouldn't make sense because it wasn't being used for only a month...and I don't have a "known working ECU" to test it with...

 

check to see if your ecu is grounded because thats what my freinds lude was doin it had no spark and all the tests we ran said it was the igniter but replaced that and still nothin and after a couple of days found out the ecu wasnt grounded and after that fired up.

 

what year is that h22a from. I did the same swap on my 99 lude. you have to use h22a distributor. all the TDC, CYL, sensor, etc is in there. and you have to run those wire to the crank sensor down behind the water pump. It's really complicated. try http://www.importnut.net/h22a_swap.
good luck. let me know

 

The H22a came without a distributor, so I reused mine. I have the crank position sensor on the oil pump housing as well as the TDC sensor from OBD2 H22A4, those wires are plugged in and good. If not, it would throw a CEL for a bad CKP/TDC, but would still spark. My ECU couldn't have come ungrounded because it has never left its original position, and it sends signal to the injectors, which are spraying fuel. I haven't seen anyone use the OBD1 dizzy and extend the wires...that just seems like more work than it needs to be.

 

how do you know if your ECU is grounded?

 

1) the case is screwed into the frame, which is bolted to metal inside the car
2) it has never been removed
3) check engine light comes on when cycling ignition (turns off after 1-2 seconds)
4) injectors are spraying fuel for startup
5) the same wiring that was used in the previous setup was used this time, and everything is the same...

if this doesn't signify that the ecu is grounded, maybe someone could help as to how I should ground it? I'm not sure if it grounds inside the cabin or the engine bay (possibly on the coolant thermostat housing where there are 2-4 other grounds) I would just assume in the engine bay so there is a good electrical connection between engine sensors and ecu...

 

bump for any helpful suggestions

 

check your timimg marks, if it's off, then the crank sensor will not tell the computer to tell the coil to fire. since you did have to take the timing belt off?!?
the crank sensor is for spark and cam sensor is for the injectors.

 

that's also what one of my close honda tech friends suggested...but I know that when I put the T-Belt on that #1 was tdc and the cam marks lined up...I'm pretty sure it would've thrown a CEL for a bad CKP/TDC if it was off...I wonder if it's possible that the sensors are too far away from the pickup tabs on the gear?

 

by the way I had the car towed to honda so they could possibly figure it out...$60 for diagnosis...but they're replacing the recalled ignition switch while it's there.

 

recheck your wiring and be sure things are connected snug...I had the same problem, but come to find out, one of my connectors on my dizzy was loose.. I plugged it back up and my motor started right up

 

ended up being the ecu...swapped that out and it tried to start (getting spark)...it'll catch for a second then stop...no idea what's going on with it now...