Hey guys i just got my setup pretty much completed it consists of a d16z6, t3 turbo, 450cc dsm blue tops w/resistor, and a chipped ecu.
The car starts and runs but it seems like as soon as it gets hot it shuts off. I am 99.9% sure everything is plugged in i am not throwing any codes at any time.
On my basmap i opened the loop because i do not have a dp yet either but i do not think that could be the problem.
At this point since i am not throwing any codes i can only think of the dizzy when it gets hot something is going wrong.
Any help would be awesome THANKS!!

 

I just had the same with my my car but I didnt even have any codes. It ended up beeing one of the components in the ECU was toast. I believe it was something for the purge solenoid or IAT. Replaced that and problem solved.

 

Weird.. I'm having the same problem on my turbo b20 teg... just started happening too. Does your car start after it shuts off? Mine will start if I have my foot on the gas.. and will remain running if I give it gas but the minute I take my foot off, it stalls out again.

For some reason, if I create a vac leak, it will idle when hot.

 

Mine has done the same thing with 2 different ecu.
I can drive the car and even with my foot on the gas it will just shut off.
Only seems to happen when the motor gets up to temp though.
I dont get it?!?

 

What are the chances of it being the timing? It seems to idle fine though...

 

$1.00 says the basemaps are made in Crome.

Crome basemaps often will idle VERY lean. Lean to the point it will shut the car off. To resolve this issue just add a boat load of fuel(probably 30%) to the idle portion.

The reason why cars will idle with the vac leak better is because vac leak will make the map sensor read over a column thus increasing fuel delivery.

 

I had the same problem with a stock unchipped ecu with stock injectors... i thought it was the o2 so i rushed putting in the injectors and getting the chipped ecu so i could open the loop

 

if you think it is you dizzy going bad start it when its cold and tap the dizzy when the car is running and if turns off there you go...

 

bump for my buddy

 

good call im gonna try that... im also thinking possibly timing just gotta get my hands on a timing light

 

Hmm..I never thought to mention it but my dizzy also crapped out shortly after that all together. I also replaced that when we did the ecu. Maybe it was actually the dizzy and not the ecu.

 

i dont know what to do this is driving me crazy i dont wanna buy a bunch of **** then have nothing work... someone else is now telling me maybe the fuel pump

 

I am now thinking it is the fuel pump because after it dies if i hold the throttle wide open it will start then die again

 

bump again for my buddy, lets get this car running

 

i have a sparefuel pump..
and i also have a brand new distrbutor for sale

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a sparefuel pump..
and i also have a brand new distrbutor for sale </TD></TR></TABLE>

i say you beat him up and he gets it for free.

 

Damn buyin all this **** is makin me broke good thing i am 85% sure i got a job today... But really i cant think of what the hell could be wrong with this thing.
I had it running for about 10min at idle and i would think by then my temp gauge would have gone up but it didnt so im thinking something with the thermostat is my problem, any ideas?

 

anyone got any ideas

 

save yourself some money and just buy a case of beer and forget it for the weekend it will help your stress i promise

 

did you try changing the tune? I had similair issues with my setup. My issue was i made my auto y8 manifold accept a iac valve... I also had to mess with my idle fuel to get it to work fine. Mine would be fine, drive great, but if i stopped it'd just die, wasn't till it went into open loop mode.

 

I dont htink the tune is going to change anything because it gave me the same problem with a stock ecu and stock injectors.
My temp gauge isnt moving so im starting to get the feeling that possibly the temp sending unit could be bad.
I know its not the fuel pump i tested that.

 

In the case of my problem that i posted about earlier, it ended up being the tune. The car ran fine before, wouldn't run ok now. Slapped my buddy's Hondata on the car, started with a completely fresh basemap and made the appropriate adjustment to the fuel and timing to get the thing to idle just fine.. once my new datalogging cable showed up, I did the same thing with Crome and it's been running all weekend.

Dunno if it's the same thing for you.. but mine was doing the exact same stuff yours is.

 

I ended up changing my water temp sensor and now it runs but the temp gauge in the car is not working for some reason... i havent taken the car for a ride but i had it running for like 30min in the garage.