New Question - CEL 10 & car ran but then stalled & won't start D15B swap
Ok. So I pulled out my D16Z6 because I was getting some rod-bearing knock and I didn't want it to get worse, and I had a spare D15B sitting in the garage, so I figured I'd throw it in.
So in about 14hours I got it in and tried to start it. IT seemed to have everything except spark. I discovered the big ground from the pass. side framerail to the top of the tranny was not as tight as it should be due to a stripped hole situation. So I replaced that bracket and grounding cable and got it to start but idle super low. It also showed CEL 10 which doesn't even make sense. I drove it around the block a few times and it seemed normal aside from the first 1800 RPM which seemed to actually be kinda slow.
But, the temp didn't rise and the cooling fan came on, and I was 80 miles from home, so I decided it was probably good enough and ready to drive home. I was heading down 611 to Philly (we were going to Pho 75 in south philly for dinner) when I discovered the car had stalled. I was on a downhill so I rolled it, dropped 1st gear, but the tires just chirped and nothing that normally happens happened. I tried it again. No good. Finally I got a break in traffic to turn left into some parking lot.
The car cranked but wouldn't seem to spark. I could smell fuel. I took off the cap and verified that it turns (not bad timing belt)
I stuck a screw driver into a spark plug wire and tried to get it to arc from the screwdriver to a ground point, and I couldn't get any arc. . . so I'm led to believe that the distributor just happened to go bad at the same time I did the swap. Horrible coincidence. I further validate this because I know that at one time, this distributor would give me a tach-signal that was really random, like 1/2 or 1/3 what it should be, and I'm told this is a sign of a bad ignitor.
So today it's to the garage for a spare distributor, and to test the "bad distributor" on the other car. Please wish me luck with that!
But what would give me code 10? Thats just odd. I have a feeling that there is a problem elsewhere but it just winds up coming out code 10. I bet the TPS isn't calibrated properly.
B
So in about 14hours I got it in and tried to start it. IT seemed to have everything except spark. I discovered the big ground from the pass. side framerail to the top of the tranny was not as tight as it should be due to a stripped hole situation. So I replaced that bracket and grounding cable and got it to start but idle super low. It also showed CEL 10 which doesn't even make sense. I drove it around the block a few times and it seemed normal aside from the first 1800 RPM which seemed to actually be kinda slow.
But, the temp didn't rise and the cooling fan came on, and I was 80 miles from home, so I decided it was probably good enough and ready to drive home. I was heading down 611 to Philly (we were going to Pho 75 in south philly for dinner) when I discovered the car had stalled. I was on a downhill so I rolled it, dropped 1st gear, but the tires just chirped and nothing that normally happens happened. I tried it again. No good. Finally I got a break in traffic to turn left into some parking lot.
The car cranked but wouldn't seem to spark. I could smell fuel. I took off the cap and verified that it turns (not bad timing belt)
I stuck a screw driver into a spark plug wire and tried to get it to arc from the screwdriver to a ground point, and I couldn't get any arc. . . so I'm led to believe that the distributor just happened to go bad at the same time I did the swap. Horrible coincidence. I further validate this because I know that at one time, this distributor would give me a tach-signal that was really random, like 1/2 or 1/3 what it should be, and I'm told this is a sign of a bad ignitor.
So today it's to the garage for a spare distributor, and to test the "bad distributor" on the other car. Please wish me luck with that!
But what would give me code 10? Thats just odd. I have a feeling that there is a problem elsewhere but it just winds up coming out code 10. I bet the TPS isn't calibrated properly.
B
UPDATE!!!
Well, it was the distributor as I thought, thank goodness. Also, the IAT was bad, and the TPS was reading .36v instead of .5v at idle, so I fixed that too. I also set the timing. Now, the thing idles where it should I think.
This thing still seems sluggish at idle to 1800 but maybe thats a product of going back down to the 1.5l single camma slamma.
But yeah it works, so I'm happy. Word.
B
Well, it was the distributor as I thought, thank goodness. Also, the IAT was bad, and the TPS was reading .36v instead of .5v at idle, so I fixed that too. I also set the timing. Now, the thing idles where it should I think.
This thing still seems sluggish at idle to 1800 but maybe thats a product of going back down to the 1.5l single camma slamma.
But yeah it works, so I'm happy. Word.
B
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StayKrafty
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Nov 9, 2008 08:56 PM




