Getting alarm installed at the shop
Thread Starter
Old Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 88,649
Likes: 5
From: Xanadu
Getting alarm installed at the shop
I'm going in this weekend. Just want a basic alarm.
Questions:
- Is Autoguard(?) a good brand? I search the web, and I think it's made my Clifford?
- They will charge $25 for a hood pin(?) Is that like if they open the hood the alarm will trigger? Worth it? I don't think I need a trunk one, unless I got some amp and sub back there, correct?
- Is backup battery necessary? I had one in my old Civic, they beat the system and got in. The battery backup stop working/or did not work.
Sorry, I don't have all the details, because if I go in, I'm afraid of pressure sales where I'll need every single thing. I want to be clear before I go in.
Questions:
- Is Autoguard(?) a good brand? I search the web, and I think it's made my Clifford?
- They will charge $25 for a hood pin(?) Is that like if they open the hood the alarm will trigger? Worth it? I don't think I need a trunk one, unless I got some amp and sub back there, correct?
- Is backup battery necessary? I had one in my old Civic, they beat the system and got in. The battery backup stop working/or did not work.
Sorry, I don't have all the details, because if I go in, I'm afraid of pressure sales where I'll need every single thing. I want to be clear before I go in.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Getting alarm installed at the shop (GoLowDrew)
First I am not sure I have ever heard of Autoguard, found this... http://www.autoguard.pl/EN/subpage.php?c3=11
My advice would be to stick with the brand names, a basic brand name alarm should cost no more then $100 retail and basic install another $100 with no more then another $60 to do park light flash, starter kill. hood pin and trunk/hatch if its a Honda/Acura, [no switch or wiring to run to do trunk/hatch]
For that $260 you should get a brand name alarm, [one of the DEIs] with duel stage impact, built in light flash relay, even maybe a built in starter kill relay, all the above hooked up with all soldered connections and a lifetime warranty on the alarm and the install.
Above are in Canadian $$.
94
My advice would be to stick with the brand names, a basic brand name alarm should cost no more then $100 retail and basic install another $100 with no more then another $60 to do park light flash, starter kill. hood pin and trunk/hatch if its a Honda/Acura, [no switch or wiring to run to do trunk/hatch]
For that $260 you should get a brand name alarm, [one of the DEIs] with duel stage impact, built in light flash relay, even maybe a built in starter kill relay, all the above hooked up with all soldered connections and a lifetime warranty on the alarm and the install.
Above are in Canadian $$.
94
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Re: Getting alarm installed at the shop (GoLowDrew)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going in this weekend. Just want a basic alarm.</TD></TR></TABLE>A basic alarm with a basic install will only stop basic thieves...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- They will charge $25 for a hood pin(?) Is that like if they open the hood the alarm will trigger? Worth it? I don't think I need a trunk one, unless I got some amp and sub back there, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>A Hood Pin is a glorified button. The way it works is by having the pressure of a closed Hood/Hatch press down on it. Once this pressure is relieved (by opening the Hood/Hatch compartment), it should trigger a response in the Alarm. $25 for a Hood Pin is way too much, unless that includes a tight-*** installation. They usually don't cost more than $2 for the Pin itself...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-y...4AU43
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- Is backup battery necessary? I had one in my old Civic, they beat the system and got in. The battery backup stop working/or did not work.</TD></TR></TABLE>Battery Backup Modules serve as an additional layer for your Security System... It's another hoop the thieves must go through if they don't want to trigger your alarm. They are relatively cheap, and, as such, are very cost effective... as long as it's functional...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... if I go in, I'm afraid of pressure sales where I'll need every single thing. I want to be clear before I go in.</TD></TR></TABLE>A good salesperson will try to get you to buy EVERYTHING. But consider your vehicle, and what thieves are going to try to do. If you have a lot of desirable Body Parts (Lips, Window/Moonroof Visors), you might want a Dual-Zone Proximity Sensor, so that your alarm will trigger if they stand around your car in an attempt to take these external parts. If not, then concentrate more on preventing entry/access to your vehicle. Tilt Sensors will help if you have nice Wheels ("Rims"), and also help deter Towing attempts. The biggest key will be the IMMOBILIZATION and DISABLEMENT of your vehicle, and you don't necessarily need an Alarm to do this (hidden Kill Switches).
Some other non-Alarm measures (with varying degrees of effectiveness) would be things like Removable Steering Wheels, AutoLocks, and simply staying Low-Key.
Try to think about how the previous thieves F'd with your vehicle, and why they chose to do it in that manner. From there, you will have a better idea of what you're up against, and can take measures to help prevent it.
The biggest factor will be the quality of the installation. No one will ever care more about your stuff than yourself, and if you don't get it accross to the installers how much you care about your car, they will simply put everything in their normal places and get ready for the next non-caring customer to give them $$$$... If they won't take the time to give you what you need, or even take the time to hear what that is, then take your business elsewhere (or DIY!!!
). The H-T A/V/S community cares, and there are a nice handfull of contributors who can help you do what you need to do (I am not one of them 
)...
GL, and let us know how it goes!!
JasonGhostz
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- They will charge $25 for a hood pin(?) Is that like if they open the hood the alarm will trigger? Worth it? I don't think I need a trunk one, unless I got some amp and sub back there, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>A Hood Pin is a glorified button. The way it works is by having the pressure of a closed Hood/Hatch press down on it. Once this pressure is relieved (by opening the Hood/Hatch compartment), it should trigger a response in the Alarm. $25 for a Hood Pin is way too much, unless that includes a tight-*** installation. They usually don't cost more than $2 for the Pin itself...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-y...4AU43
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- Is backup battery necessary? I had one in my old Civic, they beat the system and got in. The battery backup stop working/or did not work.</TD></TR></TABLE>Battery Backup Modules serve as an additional layer for your Security System... It's another hoop the thieves must go through if they don't want to trigger your alarm. They are relatively cheap, and, as such, are very cost effective... as long as it's functional...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GoLowDrew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... if I go in, I'm afraid of pressure sales where I'll need every single thing. I want to be clear before I go in.</TD></TR></TABLE>A good salesperson will try to get you to buy EVERYTHING. But consider your vehicle, and what thieves are going to try to do. If you have a lot of desirable Body Parts (Lips, Window/Moonroof Visors), you might want a Dual-Zone Proximity Sensor, so that your alarm will trigger if they stand around your car in an attempt to take these external parts. If not, then concentrate more on preventing entry/access to your vehicle. Tilt Sensors will help if you have nice Wheels ("Rims"), and also help deter Towing attempts. The biggest key will be the IMMOBILIZATION and DISABLEMENT of your vehicle, and you don't necessarily need an Alarm to do this (hidden Kill Switches).
Some other non-Alarm measures (with varying degrees of effectiveness) would be things like Removable Steering Wheels, AutoLocks, and simply staying Low-Key.
Try to think about how the previous thieves F'd with your vehicle, and why they chose to do it in that manner. From there, you will have a better idea of what you're up against, and can take measures to help prevent it.
The biggest factor will be the quality of the installation. No one will ever care more about your stuff than yourself, and if you don't get it accross to the installers how much you care about your car, they will simply put everything in their normal places and get ready for the next non-caring customer to give them $$$$... If they won't take the time to give you what you need, or even take the time to hear what that is, then take your business elsewhere (or DIY!!!
). The H-T A/V/S community cares, and there are a nice handfull of contributors who can help you do what you need to do (I am not one of them )...GL, and let us know how it goes!!
JasonGhostz
O.G. triple O.G.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,418
Likes: 329
From: south of Charlotte
Re: Getting alarm installed at the shop (JasonGhostz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A Hood Pin is a glorified button. The way it works is by having the pressure of a closed Hood/Hatch press down on it. Once this pressure is relieved (by opening the Hood/Hatch compartment), it should trigger a response in the Alarm. $25 for a Hood Pin is way too much, unless that includes a tight-*** installation. They usually don't cost more than $2 for the Pin itself... </TD></TR></TABLE>How about $75 additional charge to hook up the rear trunk/hatch trigger? The damn wire is usually right there near the UNDER-DASH fuse box! That's how much FREEMAN'S CAR STEREO charge for that "extra option". 
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Getting alarm installed at the shop (NVturbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NVturbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How about $75 additional charge to hook up the rear trunk/hatch trigger? The damn wire is usually right there near the UNDER-DASH fuse box! That's how much FREEMAN'S CAR STEREO charge for that "extra option". </TD></TR></TABLE> That is a rip, it's not worth more the $20, [.5hr labour] and thats if its done at a plug by depinning the wire and soldering the trigger wire to the pin and repinning it into the plug, [no cut or stripped wires]. 
94
</TD></TR></TABLE> That is a rip, it's not worth more the $20, [.5hr labour] and thats if its done at a plug by depinning the wire and soldering the trigger wire to the pin and repinning it into the plug, [no cut or stripped wires]. 94
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