I am trying to get my 91 hf w/ 95 z6 that I just converted to OBD1 to start. It has a new battery, new dizzy, swapped starters, new vtec solenoid. It had an alarm that was ghetto wired and I took it out, but only cut the wires to the alarm. I have a new OBD0-OBD1 harness and rywire vtec subharness. Has a P28.

When I try to start it all I get is a fast clicking noise, did the same thing with both starters. Fuses are good, main relay is good. I don't know what the hell is wrong. I need to check for spark and I can't time it because it won't start.

The car ran fine( as to be expected) w/ an rpm switch and no vtec and an pm6 ecu. Now I get nothing.

This is probably what I get for buying a half assed POS.

 

what dizzy?

 

where is the fact clicking noise coming from?

by your legs? if so then its probably the main relay, and that would mean you have a bad ground. Look at the t-stat ground and the valve cover ground..

does the starter crank?

did you tell rywire it was a HF chassis?

 

Its the z6 dizzy, brand new. TD-42U.

I have checked both grounds. The car ran before I attempted the swap over. NEver messed with the grounds.

I didn't get the conversion harness from rywire. Maybe I need to go through the harness and make sure everything is right. But that is hard to do when the wire colors are not standardized. I need to go through all my connections again and check.

I soldered the main relay, but I may need a new one, I don't know. The clicking doesn't sound like it is coming from the relay.

The starter does nothing all I get is clicking.

 

how long between the running pm6 and the obd1 changover?

maybe you got a dead battery. try boosting it if u can.. volt test wont do crap btw.

what dist were you running w/ the pm6? the HF?

how did u re-wire the z6 dist?

 

I just bought a new battery today.

Its been about 3 months since the car last ran.

I was running a TD-02U(si dizzy) with an MSD cap and a Accel Coil.

I rewired it using a diagram on here and matching the wires.

 

You know what, the main relay may be bad. Because the clicking starts before I even try to turn the car on.

 

got a spare?

 

Lol, thats the one part I don't have two of it seems like. What is the best place to get a new one?

I already tried resoldering it once, probably did more harm than good.

 

its a Honda ONLY relay, gunna bite the bullet for a new one ($60 or so) was $80 cdn.

you'll want one for a 90 HF NOT a Si or 92-95, just incase you were wondering.

 

Oh i know. Because I am still rocking the stock 91 hf fuel system, no biggie.

I will do it one of these days, just got very very frustrated with the car today, But I guess we have all been there a time or two.

I just wish the guy I bought the car from and done the swap right in the first place and not half assed it. Probably would have ran a lot better for him too.


Modified by pinecone at 3:33 PM 6/1/2006

 

Alright I resoldered my main relay, now the car tries to start. I was gonna check for spark when I got home, but its kinda hard to do that with no help.

When I try to turn it over and then i go to turn it off, it sounds like a big bubble of air deflates. Kinda hard to explain.

I am gonna get a new power and ground kit of the battery and probably redo the valve cover and thermostat ground too, if I can find where it goes.

is there a ground under the dash? I took the dash off to paint and not sure if I might have undone it. If there is, where is it?

 

Just changed the ground cable and power cables on the battery and changed the valve cover ground cable. Car still does the same thing.

Peculiar thing is, that i don't have to push the clutch in to try and start the car. I know something about that isn't right.

In regards to the main relay issue. The fuel pump primes and the cel comes on and then goes off.

I will try the other starter that had been on the car when it ran to narrow down issues.

 

means the a hole took out the neutral safty switch. you have to check your spark that was the problem on my da teg when i did a b16.

 

So do I need the neutral safety switch, can I fix it so that you have to push the clutch in?

I am gonna check spark tomorrow. I will have to check my dizzy wiring again.

 

check your starter, wiring harness, and perhaps the ECU(they can get faulty sometimes.)

 

I am gonna try the other starter tomorrow. I am also going to look over my OBD1 wiring and dizzy wiring. Not much I can do about the ECU, don't have a spare one laying around.

Can I use a P06 to test the car or not since it is a non-vtec B7 ecu. I am leaning toward probably not.

 

you can use it. I used a po6 to start my girls y8 to test it out. drove ok. itll start though.

 

Cool, I will attempt it tomorrow. Thanks guys.

 

FYI, if you arent getting crank, its prolly a ground issue or something. The car can crank without a ecu hooked up.

 

If its a ground I don't know what other ground to check. I will look at the thermostat ground again and clean it up a lil bit.

Do the wires have to ground at the thermostat or can they be grounded elsewhere?

 

Alright I got it started. I had the thick white wire and thin white wire backwards on the dizzy plug. It starts but it either idles really rough , shakes alot. Sounds like it is getting enough fuel, because it doesn't even attempt to die when I push the accelerator in. I am going to play with the idle screw in a minute to see what I can do.

Anything else that will cause it to shake so much?

 

it may seem obvious but have you check the firing order? Sounds like the car is missing really badly, simple to check and simple to mess up.

 

I will look at them again.

Its idling at about 500.


No smoke, no cel, so far so good

 

Alright, now it runs right, mostly. Now it idles at around 1500, I just need to adjust the idle screw and see if that changes it any.

Now it seems like I have electrical issues. My radio cuts in and out as the rpms dips down. My lights coming on makes the rpms go down. Don't even think of turning the high beams on and the rpms go to zero and then back up.

Sounds like an alternator problem now, wtf, it was fine before. I really really don't want to change the alternator out. I will have to check the connections.

Also the switch I made for my rear wiper now makes the seat belt tensioners tension and the turn signal indicators and high beam indicator to light up.