Rear springs won't settle!! grrrr!!!!!!!!
Ok, so I have K-sports lowering springs for my car, the front settle very well, but its been close to 5 weeks and my back still hasn't settled yet, It is still 3 fingers (stacked) gap from the wheel to the fender. It's really annoying because the springs is suppose to drop the car 2.25" on the rear when I think in reality it only dropped 1.9" ish.
Is there a way that I can settle my springs? Make it lower? Thanks
Is there a way that I can settle my springs? Make it lower? Thanks
wouldn't that make the car bouncy?
I was thinkin about when I go off to college i'm going to put all my bench weights in the back and leave it for months.
Modified by shanghaining at 9:25 PM 5/31/2006
I was thinkin about when I go off to college i'm going to put all my bench weights in the back and leave it for months.
Modified by shanghaining at 9:25 PM 5/31/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodriguez_benjamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if they havent settled you could always cut the spring a little more?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh God no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jacobforcecrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">torch, and warm them up</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh God no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanghaining »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinkin about when I go off to college i'm going to put all my bench weights in the back and leave it for months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the only thing I would do.
The others are old school low-rider methods and make your car handle like ****.
Oh God no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jacobforcecrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">torch, and warm them up</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh God no.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanghaining »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinkin about when I go off to college i'm going to put all my bench weights in the back and leave it for months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the only thing I would do.
The others are old school low-rider methods and make your car handle like ****.
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dont torch them, please. especially if you havent done it before.
youre going to heat up the metal too much, make it too soft, and fubar your spring rates 7 ways from sunday.
i'd check the install. 5 weeks is a very long time for springs to settle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shanghaining »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, thats the problem, i'm pretty sure the install was right. </TD></TR></TABLE> wierd.
you did say 'pretty sure' and not 'fully sure' though
you did say 'pretty sure' and not 'fully sure' though
but it should aleast it should settle to what it says it should settle to
i'm 99 percent sure its installed right! and it's been checked out by car shop too with alignment
i'm 99 percent sure its installed right! and it's been checked out by car shop too with alignment
then you didnt get properly match springs man
springs take a few days at max 2 weeks to settle
You can always put a spring spacer in the front to balance it out
Dont heat them up though, ***** your rates and the car wont feel right
springs take a few days at max 2 weeks to settle
You can always put a spring spacer in the front to balance it out
Dont heat them up though, ***** your rates and the car wont feel right
I dont see why the weights would permanently settle the spring down, but I suppose if cant hurt to try if youre not gonna be there
make sure you dont tuck tire after a few months though lol
make sure you dont tuck tire after a few months though lol
Well the guy said to throw weights in the back of your car to lower it right?
Im assuming he meant the added weight will permantly change the height of the spring.
I said to watch the car, if it does eventually work, how do you know how far the springs are gonna drop? you dont want a 4" drop right?
Tucking tire = fender going overtop of tire
Im assuming he meant the added weight will permantly change the height of the spring.
I said to watch the car, if it does eventually work, how do you know how far the springs are gonna drop? you dont want a 4" drop right?
Tucking tire = fender going overtop of tire
zero out the bushings. it will properly "settle" the springs. otherwise, the springs just arent made to give the drop they advertise.
the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.
if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.
to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.
the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.
if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.
to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.
When I first lowered my car the dust covers were smaller than the shocks and they bound up. I know this is off the wall, but you never know....
I would say go with throwing heaps of stuff in the back and going for a looooooong drive. I have superlows in my EF2 and they have only just settled after my Father and I drove 900km with all my stuff in them. I've had it lowered for 15 months.
i know this may sound stupid but make sure u didnt install the springs upside down... i know someone who did this and he had the same problem as u did, it wasnt dropped... then he decided to double check and notice they were upside down
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