- Removed carpet, some dash parts (gauge install location). Installed pedals, steering wheel/hub, and bling-bling Wal-mart seat covers



- Removed entire rear interior panels/carpet/etc. As you can see, there' splenty of that tar stuff to be removed



I pulled the sunroof today, and I'm going to fabricate something soon to fill the hole. For the time being, I might just put some brackets on the bare roof piece with all of the mounts/rails/motor/etc. removed.

Now I'm waiting on my GCR, and some parts. Not bad for the first week

 

Looks good man! When does the cage go in?


Wow! Look at all that sound-deadening crap . . .


Cobra - Who is damn glad he decided to get rid of his sound deadening **** when it was 14 degrees outside

 

well, thats a start!!! what are your plans for suspension? here's a link to some pics of my project ITA CRX. aka- the car that will never be done!
http://members9.clubphoto.com/jason544779/guest-1.phtml

 

The cage goes in as soon as I get one

I have e-mails in to Kirk and a couple of custom places. It will likely end up being a bolt-in kit with added 10"x10" welded plates and added welded door bars and cross braces. It's cheaper than a complete custom cage, and since I can do the welding myself it's free labor. I just can't measure/cut/bend, so I need to start out with some kind of kit.

The sound-damping crap is a pain in my ***. However, I work in a lab where I can use liquid nitrogen, and I'm hoping that it will make my life easier. We'll see.

As for the suspension, I'm looking at an off-the-shelf Koni Yellow/GC/Eibach setup until my skills require something better. I'm not sure of spring rates yet, but they should be in the neighborhood of 3-400F and 4-500R. I will also upgrade the rear sway bar, and then leave things alone as I learn the car. Right now, I'm all about getting a safe car on the track. The ultimate setup will likely never happen.

 

Those spring rates sound low. I'd check with the other ITA guys that frequent the board.

 

Yes, 400F/500R is lower than many ITA folks run. However, I can swap out springs for very little money to different spring rates, and I don't want to need custom valves for the dampers right from the start. I was under the impression that you don't want to go much higher than 600lbs with off-the-shelf konis. Maybe I'll go closer to 500F/600R and see how the dampers hold up. Either way, in the end, I'll likely end up with much higher rates and revalved shocks, but not until my skills require them.

 

400F/600R is a good starting point with the CRX. Drive it that way for a while, then decide what direction to go.

 

Would it be okay to run 400F/600R on off-the-shelf Konis?

 

That, I don't know... my Koni's were race valved.

 

how undriveable would 1000 lb springs on the back of my teg be? i want something stiffer than my sportlines that ride at the same height. any idea what rate the sportlines are?
-erik

 

get rid of that sound deadning crap asap!

Dry ice is your best friend when removing that stuff.

 

you are better off doing it on a cold night and paying a few friends to help by buying them some beer. the dry ice can be a hassle.

 

Cold night...LOL! It's nearing midnight here, and it has almost dropped to 80 F. That's about as cold as it gets I'll need something colder...

 

My opinion is to keep that sound deadening stuff in there. You may end up being underweight and tahts where you want your weight anyway, and that sound deadening stuff is actually helping you pass the decibel restrictions and making it more comfortable to drive inside a big tin box, with an engine and exhaust vibrating the whole chassis. So, unless you need to remove it because you think youre gonna repaint the inside and make it look nice, I'd just keep it in there. Because sometimes the paint chips and peels off underneath the black stuff and will end up looking like it needs to repainted, but not always.

But yeah, drive up to the mountains overnight and pick at it....

 

If you have 1000 lb rear springs your car will never ever see a public street. At least i surely hope.

How can you ask about what spring rates you need when you dont know what spring rates you have? I cant imagine the eibach sportline springs to be more than 200 lb/in. Probably progressive in the rear.

 

I'm sure the sportlines are more than that. I thought they were about 400 but i am not sure... that's why i asked. no need to be a smart *** about it. just trying to learn. springs aren't my thing. if they were i wouldn't be asking such a question. thanks for your answer though. I have done my reading about drag springs and now understand much better. thanks
-Erik

 

most off the shelf 'sport' springs arent that stiff. The stock springs on my car are 125#/in, while the eibach pro-kits are around 160#/in and progressive in the rear, 140-190-ish (forget exact number). The sportlines are supposed to be a bit stiffer than the pro-kits, no? I imagne that for most relatively lightweight cars the numbers wouldnt differ too far from this - if it were higher, in the 300-400# range it would probably be labeled as a 'race' spring. H&R makes a pretty nice set of 'em...