Check engine light...car quits while driving...PLEASE help! =)
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Cookeville, TN - San Antonio, TX
Hello guys. A quick question about my Honda. I have a 98 Accord EX auto-coupe. I have never had any problems with the car except lately. The check engine light has been going off for a while and then it will go off for a while at just random points while driving. Now it pretty much stays on and when I give it a burst of power it starts blinking until I stop the car and turn it off. I have also had a problem with the car just turning off while driving...everything; the dash, engine...I have to put it in neutral and restart it. This has potentially been dangerous seeing the wheel locks up also. A few times it would not start the first or second time...then it would be just fine. (Starts for a sec. and died) Also going onto the freeway if I ever have it the gas down all the way it revs up high and then jumps and is like it is gurgling or something.
Honestly I know very little about the mechanics, but I try...I was thinking maybe an O2 sensor? If anyone has a suggestions please let me know. It is hard right now for me to find the money to pay just to get it hooked up to a computer. Anyways...thanks for any advice!
Honestly I know very little about the mechanics, but I try...I was thinking maybe an O2 sensor? If anyone has a suggestions please let me know. It is hard right now for me to find the money to pay just to get it hooked up to a computer. Anyways...thanks for any advice!
#1 rule of CELs. <U>Get the code.</U>
Take it to Autozone or where ever else pulls the code for free, get the code pulled. We can't help you unless we know what the code is.
Take it to Autozone or where ever else pulls the code for free, get the code pulled. We can't help you unless we know what the code is.
Wow, that is crazy because i have the same car Accord 98 ex v6 but automatic. The check engine light recently lid up and a few day after that my car shut off while driving and quickly turned back on automatically. Then the next day the same thing happened i was driving the car shut off and on its on turned back-on almost instantly. I have to admit this is really dangerous because the car slows down and locks. I am going to Autozone once i get out of work to pull the code and i will post the code here and see the replies i get which might help the both of us. When you get ur code pulled keep me updated on what information you find out. Thank you.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Cookeville, TN - San Antonio, TX
I tried to go to autozone to get the code, but it was raining so they didn't want to go out. I'm still working on that! Mine is an automatic too. Also, my oil pressure light came on...so yeah, I think that is something I need to get taken care of too! Ah, never a porblem witht the car and then it comes!
The oil pressure light will turn on if the car is stumbling bad, or if the car shuts off while the key is still in the "ON" position. If it comes on and stays on while the engine is running, then it could be a problem.
BTW, has the car been to the dealership for the ignition recall? If you don't know, contact your dealership and ask them about it. Have your VIN number ready. But again, the first thing you need to do is get the code pulled.
BTW, has the car been to the dealership for the ignition recall? If you don't know, contact your dealership and ask them about it. Have your VIN number ready. But again, the first thing you need to do is get the code pulled.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Cookeville, TN - San Antonio, TX
Ok, I went and put the car on the computer...cyclinders 2,3,4,5,and 6 were not fireing correctly. Also it had something about low oxygen efficiency...basically I changed the plugs, distr. cap and rotor, and o2 sensor. (I got a universal one...spliced into old harness but saved $60). The Engine light went off after I drove and turned the car off and on again. No more surging so everything is seemingly fine...except...I was driving today and the car did shut down while driving. So I suppose that is something else causing it...at least most everything else seems fine!
I also suspect the ignition switch (because the steering wheel locks). Did you check on the recall? (if it was done)
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 11
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From: Cookeville, TN - San Antonio, TX
I called Honda to check the recall...there are two recalls my car needs; that being one of which I need. So, I set up the appointment! And after changing the o2, plugs, distr., etc...everything is working great as it should! *Sigh of relief* lol
mine was doing the shut off thing i changed the distr. cap and the rotory button and it quit shutting off
now i have to fix the problem with the rpm's not going past 4 grand it wont change gears unless i slowly let off the gas right before it hits 4 grand then it will shift.
im getting a vtec code could it be the sylinoid switch?
now i have to fix the problem with the rpm's not going past 4 grand it wont change gears unless i slowly let off the gas right before it hits 4 grand then it will shift.
im getting a vtec code could it be the sylinoid switch?
This:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnnyaccord99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im getting a vtec code</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the cause of this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnnyaccord99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> now i have to fix the problem with the rpm's not going past 4 grand it wont change gears unless i slowly let off the gas right before it hits 4 grand then it will shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Check for continuity between the solenoid connector and body ground. Should read between 14 and 30 ohms. If not, replace the solenoid. If ok, go to step 2.
2. With ignition off, pull the harness plug from the oil pressure switch. Check for continuity between the two oil pressure switch terminals on the VTEC solenoid. If no continuity, replace the oil pressure switch. If there's continuity, go to step 3.
3. Remove the solenoid and check for free movement in the plunger. (Use a new O-ring when reinstalling) If ok, go to step 4.
4. Remove the complete solenoid assembly and check for a clogged filter. If so, clean and reinstall with a new O-ring.
Modified by philadd at 5:33 PM 6/11/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnnyaccord99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im getting a vtec code</TD></TR></TABLE>
is the cause of this:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnnyaccord99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> now i have to fix the problem with the rpm's not going past 4 grand it wont change gears unless i slowly let off the gas right before it hits 4 grand then it will shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Check for continuity between the solenoid connector and body ground. Should read between 14 and 30 ohms. If not, replace the solenoid. If ok, go to step 2.
2. With ignition off, pull the harness plug from the oil pressure switch. Check for continuity between the two oil pressure switch terminals on the VTEC solenoid. If no continuity, replace the oil pressure switch. If there's continuity, go to step 3.
3. Remove the solenoid and check for free movement in the plunger. (Use a new O-ring when reinstalling) If ok, go to step 4.
4. Remove the complete solenoid assembly and check for a clogged filter. If so, clean and reinstall with a new O-ring.
Modified by philadd at 5:33 PM 6/11/2006
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