knee deep in my d16b5 build and I'm having clutch problems!
the problem is a clutch that isn't fully disengaging
okay, I'm a little bit confused here, i installed a new clutch disk a "RAM" clutch puck type thing, and a used pressure plate.

I also FULLY rebuilt the transmission with quaife,gears,bearings,etc.
here's a picture of the clutch fork just after i finished assembling it with a new throwout bearing.

when i installed the clutch, i installed the springside towards the transmission, i hope to god that's not backwards.
this is a hydro trans. I have tried to adjust the pedal, but it still isn't making a difference. I am going to bleed the system tommorow, although i don't really see the need, because it worked fine before. unless, it lets air into the system if that "piston" falls out of the slave cylinder?
if anyone knows what might be the issue, please help
Modified by Bense at 2:58 PM 5/31/2006
okay, I'm a little bit confused here, i installed a new clutch disk a "RAM" clutch puck type thing, and a used pressure plate.

I also FULLY rebuilt the transmission with quaife,gears,bearings,etc.
here's a picture of the clutch fork just after i finished assembling it with a new throwout bearing.

when i installed the clutch, i installed the springside towards the transmission, i hope to god that's not backwards.
this is a hydro trans. I have tried to adjust the pedal, but it still isn't making a difference. I am going to bleed the system tommorow, although i don't really see the need, because it worked fine before. unless, it lets air into the system if that "piston" falls out of the slave cylinder?
if anyone knows what might be the issue, please help
Modified by Bense at 2:58 PM 5/31/2006
I bled the system several times, and it seems like the slave cylinder isn't moving the clutch fork all the way. I dunno. I even flushed all the fluid out of the sytem!
Modified by Bense at 2:16 PM 5/31/2006
Modified by Bense at 2:16 PM 5/31/2006
how did u bleed it with a hand pump vacuum bleeder or two person bleading...if u do it two personmake sure the person that is loosen the bleeder nut pushes all the fluid out of the slave cyclider by pushing the fork and make sure there isnt much free-pedel taht could casue a badbleding process..good luck man and hope u gettting working
You said you put in a used pressure plate. What shape was it in? I can see from the pic that the fingers are a little worn, but they don't look bad. How was the plate itself? Was it resurfaced or just put back in? If it was worn bad that would cause it to slip. I'm not totally clear on what the problem is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GaEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said you put in a used pressure plate. What shape was it in? I can see from the pic that the fingers are a little worn, but they don't look bad. How was the plate itself? Was it resurfaced or just put back in? If it was worn bad that would cause it to slip. I'm not totally clear on what the problem is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
there's no slipping, and i cleaned the surface off with brake parts cleaner. It was still a smooth surface. I have like 3 pressure plates, but I chose the one with the most "fingers"
the problem is that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I have bled the system several times with two people. and it still has the problem.
I realize that I am going to have to drop the transmission off today and fix "something" but I dont' know what I'll need to do.
there's no slipping, and i cleaned the surface off with brake parts cleaner. It was still a smooth surface. I have like 3 pressure plates, but I chose the one with the most "fingers"
the problem is that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. I have bled the system several times with two people. and it still has the problem.
I realize that I am going to have to drop the transmission off today and fix "something" but I dont' know what I'll need to do.
andrew, before you drop the tranny check the adjustment inside. try not to drive it long like that or you will wear clutch very quick. how do you know its not disengaging??? does it slip bad or what??? how bad was the original clutch you took off??? if it was worn pretty bad and someone adjusted the pedal throw to compensate thats the problem. hit me on yahoo later if you need more help.
If it won't disengage all I can think of is adjusting the pedal from inside the car. Bring it up away from the floor farther. If that doesn't work bleed it again and make sure who ever is helping you knows exactly what to do and does it right. Aside from that I don't know. Good luck.
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i already adjusted the pedal, i believe that it's a clutch/pressure plate mismatch.
DROPPING TRANNYS LIKE ITS HOTT!
less honda-teching, more tranny dropping
gonna change clothes, do a few lines of coke, and get on out there!
ooooh and i'm gonna listen to some music while i do it!
I'm thinking that I'll listen to this guy:

hahahaha
DROPPING TRANNYS LIKE ITS HOTT!
less honda-teching, more tranny dropping

gonna change clothes, do a few lines of coke, and get on out there!
ooooh and i'm gonna listen to some music while i do it!
I'm thinking that I'll listen to this guy:

hahahaha
you have to have play on the clutchpedal inside the car.. its like 1/8 inch or so... you cannot put the clutch disc on backwards.. maybe the pressure plate is bad... my cx clutch had as many " fingers" as your pressure plate has.. and when i pushed the clutch in in first gear.. if i revved it over 3000rpm the car would start inching forward...
my stage 2 pressure plate has 7 "fingers" .. maybe your pressure plate is bad.. thats the only thing i can think of
oh ya.. i love your alignment tool
my stage 2 pressure plate has 7 "fingers" .. maybe your pressure plate is bad.. thats the only thing i can think of
oh ya.. i love your alignment tool
Mine did that....it was the M/C, which was brand-spanking new. It was faulty. Sounds like a fluid problem to me.
A friend of mine had a similar problem and there was some bolt left out of something right inside the bellhousing.
Coke makes you an super mechanic.....and pretty much a super everything. BUT...I hope you were kidding.
A friend of mine had a similar problem and there was some bolt left out of something right inside the bellhousing.
Coke makes you an super mechanic.....and pretty much a super everything. BUT...I hope you were kidding.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay, i got that part fixed, now i just gotta figure out why my engine cuts out when i hit WOT</TD></TR></TABLE>
so what was the problem? also check the plug gaps
so what was the problem? also check the plug gaps
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GaEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was the problem with the clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...28393
back to the project thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn busy guy, moving on kinda quick
back to the project thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>damn busy guy, moving on kinda quick
yep, i scheduled the tuner to be here on the 3rd. And i set the schedule before I had the engine in the car lol. So i'm busting *** to get everything done.
maybe ur tps is bad... or maybe map sensor... thats wierd.. my car cuts out at 1/4 throttle and gets all jerky from 25-2800..
oh yeah.. did u calibrate ur tps??? .5 volts closed should be right 5.0 volts open.. but thats not gonna happen.. juse make shure its .5 volts closed...
the most i can get mine open is 4.7
oh yeah.. did u calibrate ur tps??? .5 volts closed should be right 5.0 volts open.. but thats not gonna happen.. juse make shure its .5 volts closed...
the most i can get mine open is 4.7


