My 3rd Gen H22A Swap Project - PROGRESS - 56k NO WAY
Well this will be my main thread for updates on my H22A SWAP into my 3rd gen 1991 Prelude...

The parts that i have attained for this swap are -
JDM H22A - In Separate Pieces
Golden Eagle HD Sleeve 87MM
Golden Eagle Cut Orign Groove Block Decked
Transmission
= $2700
ACURA GSR P72 chipped uberdata ecu with usb connection - $200
PRI H22a 1988 - 1991 Prelude Swap Mounts $725
PRI H22a 1988 - 1991 Prelude Swap Axels $424
ARP H22a Head bolts $85 < discount since there was a error in another purchase
ARP H22a Main Bolts - $80
Magnacore H22 SPARK PLUG WIRES - $50
Walbro Fuel 255 LPH pump - $80
H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion - $50
H22A Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - $75
= $1769
H22a Custom Turbo Manifold and Piping for the 1988 - 1991 Prelude Turbonetics Hybrid T3/T4 70 A/R .48 TRIM
= $350
Total Currently Spent = <FONT COLOR=""Red"">$4819</FONT> - Not including the gas driving the Vegas and back to get these parts from AFTERBURNERS - former 3rd gen owner and member on Preludepower.com
- $300+ gas,etc..
Still need to get-
Forged Pistons and rings - around $500
Forged Rods - around $400
Honda OEM Gasket Set, Main and Rod Bearings, Water Pump, Oil Pump, all
the seals and coolant hoses - around $1000+or-
4TH GEN H22A1 p13 USDM ECU for - Referee SMOG/INSPECTION Certification
4TH GEN Shifter Cables and Linkage
Oil pan and fitting for Turbo Oil Line
Turbo Charge Pipe
HKS Super Squential Blow-Off Valve - around $300
Tial 38mm Wastegate - around $240
Boost Gauge and the vital Gauges required to maintain the car
H22A LSD Transmission -$600-$1000
Name Brand Stage 2 Racing Clutch - around $300
Name Brand 9.5lb-8.5lb Chromoly Racing Flywheel - around $300
Total Still need to spend - <FONT COLOR=""red"">$3000- $3500</FONT>
Final total not including GAS and misc parts and tools required for the swap and other mods i have aqquired - around <FONT COLOR=""red"">$9000 or MORE</FONT>
Well this is my plan..
Since I live in cali i will be building the engine with Honda OEM parts and putting in forged pistons and rods at 9:1 compression and hopefully from research and suggestions i should be able to pass the sniffer test at the referee station.
After that i plan on boosting the car and getting the ecu tuned either with uberdata or other chip.. or go standalone. Well here are the pics of most of the stuff i have bought..
I drove down to afterburners house in Vegas on Sat Night at 9:00pm and got there after traffic around 1:00am and started to go through all the stuff and loaded my car with all the parts
This is Afterburners NSX

and this is my Scion TC i drove down to load all the stuff with.. i had to put tape and the car bra on because of all the rocks and debree, i didn't want my cf hood to get chipped.
This is the drop for a Scion TC with a h22a and turbo kit in the back and no people inside



daymit because of the drive my rear lip kit got melted


and this is everything in the car.. i also had 2 people in the car..


this is the drop after i removed all the stuff lol

and here is all the stuff i got -











and here is the beautiful block










this is how the block used to be

Turbo and manifold




this is how it used to be on afterburners lude


intake and head



PRI axles

Well thats it for now.. right now i'm trying to figure out how to figure out which main bearings to order as well as rod bearings..
Modified by jay_jay_n at 1:55 PM 6/9/2006

The parts that i have attained for this swap are -
JDM H22A - In Separate Pieces
Golden Eagle HD Sleeve 87MM
Golden Eagle Cut Orign Groove Block Decked
Transmission
= $2700
ACURA GSR P72 chipped uberdata ecu with usb connection - $200
PRI H22a 1988 - 1991 Prelude Swap Mounts $725
PRI H22a 1988 - 1991 Prelude Swap Axels $424
ARP H22a Head bolts $85 < discount since there was a error in another purchase
ARP H22a Main Bolts - $80
Magnacore H22 SPARK PLUG WIRES - $50
Walbro Fuel 255 LPH pump - $80
H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion - $50
H22A Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - $75
= $1769
H22a Custom Turbo Manifold and Piping for the 1988 - 1991 Prelude Turbonetics Hybrid T3/T4 70 A/R .48 TRIM
= $350
Total Currently Spent = <FONT COLOR=""Red"">$4819</FONT> - Not including the gas driving the Vegas and back to get these parts from AFTERBURNERS - former 3rd gen owner and member on Preludepower.com
- $300+ gas,etc..
Still need to get-
Forged Pistons and rings - around $500
Forged Rods - around $400
Honda OEM Gasket Set, Main and Rod Bearings, Water Pump, Oil Pump, all
the seals and coolant hoses - around $1000+or-
4TH GEN H22A1 p13 USDM ECU for - Referee SMOG/INSPECTION Certification
4TH GEN Shifter Cables and Linkage
Oil pan and fitting for Turbo Oil Line
Turbo Charge Pipe
HKS Super Squential Blow-Off Valve - around $300
Tial 38mm Wastegate - around $240
Boost Gauge and the vital Gauges required to maintain the car
H22A LSD Transmission -$600-$1000
Name Brand Stage 2 Racing Clutch - around $300
Name Brand 9.5lb-8.5lb Chromoly Racing Flywheel - around $300
Total Still need to spend - <FONT COLOR=""red"">$3000- $3500</FONT>
Final total not including GAS and misc parts and tools required for the swap and other mods i have aqquired - around <FONT COLOR=""red"">$9000 or MORE</FONT>
Well this is my plan..
Since I live in cali i will be building the engine with Honda OEM parts and putting in forged pistons and rods at 9:1 compression and hopefully from research and suggestions i should be able to pass the sniffer test at the referee station.
After that i plan on boosting the car and getting the ecu tuned either with uberdata or other chip.. or go standalone. Well here are the pics of most of the stuff i have bought..
I drove down to afterburners house in Vegas on Sat Night at 9:00pm and got there after traffic around 1:00am and started to go through all the stuff and loaded my car with all the parts

This is Afterburners NSX


and this is my Scion TC i drove down to load all the stuff with.. i had to put tape and the car bra on because of all the rocks and debree, i didn't want my cf hood to get chipped.
This is the drop for a Scion TC with a h22a and turbo kit in the back and no people inside




daymit because of the drive my rear lip kit got melted



and this is everything in the car.. i also had 2 people in the car..


this is the drop after i removed all the stuff lol

and here is all the stuff i got -











and here is the beautiful block











this is how the block used to be

Turbo and manifold




this is how it used to be on afterburners lude


intake and head



PRI axles

Well thats it for now.. right now i'm trying to figure out how to figure out which main bearings to order as well as rod bearings..
Modified by jay_jay_n at 1:55 PM 6/9/2006
thx u guys.. yeah i didn't kno that storing the crank that way was really bad... but yeah the lip melted because the exhaust wasn't mounted low enough.. still a long build and a lot more money.
yoooo buddy....its ToXXicluder90 from pp.com
I never even saw your plans nor did i know you were doing this.
but **** mang.... looks like your headstrong into the build.
Mad props to you for actually doing it.
im keeping this bookmarked for sure...i'll be back to see how things go.
I never even saw your plans nor did i know you were doing this.
but **** mang.... looks like your headstrong into the build.
Mad props to you for actually doing it.
im keeping this bookmarked for sure...i'll be back to see how things go.
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thx u guys.. still in the process of purchasing my 9:1 cp pistons from "specie" and getting some eagle rods.. i kno crowers are better but a lot more expensive but i can't decide if i should go that route.. also this is my first build so if u guys have any tips that i should be aware of pls feel free to let me kno.. one thing that i had no clue that, the proper way to store the crank is standing up and not on its side, stuff like that.
Last night my crank fell over to the ground.. but there isn't any noticable marks on it.. should i be worried ? and should i get it balanced and checked out? the ground was the cement floor in my garage.
Last night my crank fell over to the ground.. but there isn't any noticable marks on it.. should i be worried ? and should i get it balanced and checked out? the ground was the cement floor in my garage.
faster than yo mama.
its hard to know for sure cuz its not done.... but some turbo'd 3rd gens run 13's with stock motors....which is a huge improvment over the stocks running 16's & 17's average in the 1/4.
his will be pretty built though as opposed to most of the others so his if built right and tuned great...will prolly be faster.
its hard to know for sure cuz its not done.... but some turbo'd 3rd gens run 13's with stock motors....which is a huge improvment over the stocks running 16's & 17's average in the 1/4.
his will be pretty built though as opposed to most of the others so his if built right and tuned great...will prolly be faster.
Well i finally got my Pistons and Rods 
They are 9:1 CP Pistons at 87mm Bore = $375
and Eagle H Rods =$290



The problem is that the pistons i got were originally owned by someone else but were never used, the problem is that the guy doesn't have the the paper work on the proper installation of the rings and also he already put them on and appeared to have placed on wrong.


Some were upside down and i don't really kno the proper order since for some reason there is one extra ring and one extra groove on the piston for the extra ring..
From my searches on honda-tech most of the information on the installation of the rings didn't describe an extra ring.


which order do the rings go in.. and do i need to gap all rings

also this ring is different from the rest..

also i've been trying to find a place locally to buy a ring gapper/filer/grinder... and no luck.. is online the only place i can get them at?
does anybody kno the calculations for the h22a proper gapping? like the proper formula for it?
PLEASE HELP!

They are 9:1 CP Pistons at 87mm Bore = $375
and Eagle H Rods =$290


The problem is that the pistons i got were originally owned by someone else but were never used, the problem is that the guy doesn't have the the paper work on the proper installation of the rings and also he already put them on and appeared to have placed on wrong.


Some were upside down and i don't really kno the proper order since for some reason there is one extra ring and one extra groove on the piston for the extra ring..
From my searches on honda-tech most of the information on the installation of the rings didn't describe an extra ring.


which order do the rings go in.. and do i need to gap all rings

also this ring is different from the rest..

also i've been trying to find a place locally to buy a ring gapper/filer/grinder... and no luck.. is online the only place i can get them at?
does anybody kno the calculations for the h22a proper gapping? like the proper formula for it?
PLEASE HELP!
yup i just found that out from CP Pistons that there not the original ones from CP and there total seal gapless rings.. grrr.. this sucks i've been hearing so much crap about total seal rings.. and i don't think i should risk my build by using them.
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ly ****....good luck with your build.


