Help! Brakes are to the Floor
I have a 95 Accord - having brake issues since the purchase of the car(08/2005). They keep going to the floor. The person who sold it to me said that there were new brakes put on. He checked it out twice for me and "bleed" them (dont even know what that is). The 1st time like 30mins and then the 2nd time for like an hr. The person who sold it to me is also a mechanic but I'm starting to question if he know whats even wrong. I pull my seat closer so that I can reach far enough to brake but then practicially slam on the gas when its time to go. I can't stand it anymore and I don't feel very safe. Any ideas anyone?
Since you don't know what 'bleeding' is all about, I'd suggest you find a mechanic to do it for you.
Is there brake fluid leaking anywhere?
Bleeding brakes is pumping new brake fluid thru the system to get all the air bubbles out. Air in the brake hoses will allow your pedal to sink to the floor. Do the brakes work if you pump the pedal? If so, that's a sign of air in the system.
Sometimes bleeding doesn't fix the problem, and you need to replace the brake master cylinder.
Is there brake fluid leaking anywhere?
Bleeding brakes is pumping new brake fluid thru the system to get all the air bubbles out. Air in the brake hoses will allow your pedal to sink to the floor. Do the brakes work if you pump the pedal? If so, that's a sign of air in the system.
Sometimes bleeding doesn't fix the problem, and you need to replace the brake master cylinder.
There is no fluid leaking from my car and pumping the brakes doesn't help. I will take the car to another mechanic but other the the brake master cylinder it couldn't be anything else? And what would something like that cost and how long would it take. Personally, I got this car when my old one died
and I only plan on keeping it for like another 2yrs. Is this something worth fixing. There are other things wrong with the car but they are costemic like dents (that came with the car) and rust so I figure it wasn't worth putting in the money.
and I only plan on keeping it for like another 2yrs. Is this something worth fixing. There are other things wrong with the car but they are costemic like dents (that came with the car) and rust so I figure it wasn't worth putting in the money.
well dude, stopping is a little more important than going..... same thing happened with me tho when i got my (used)'95 Accord .... my personal experience was having to get new rotors , new master cylinder, ... and pretty much the works man...... but thats where i'd put my money....in the master cylinder ...and the rotors are probably almost non-existant
Well, if he REALLY has already bled the brakes, and there's no fluid leaking, then I guess that narrows it down to a bad master cylinder.
I'd get it fixed. How could you even sell the car if the brakes don't work. Were they doing that when you bought the car?
I'd get it fixed. How could you even sell the car if the brakes don't work. Were they doing that when you bought the car?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dentsrme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes they were. The mechanic said it was air and thats why he bleed them (due to new brakes being put in). </TD></TR></TABLE>
what do you mean by new brake being put it, for regular service such as brake pad and rotor replacement, the fluid part of the system have nothing to do with it.
unless the dude did the brake before is an idoit and let the piston fell off.
it's really rare for air in the system that will bring the pedal to the floor, unless he left the piston hanging out and all the brake juice come out.
check the master cylinder(the paint under it will tell you is there brake fluid there), tall the lines, caliper seals and possilble wheel cylinder seals.
have your mechanic FLUSH the system while you at it.
beside that, you might need to bleed the ABS system, for the older high/low pressure pump system for earlier honda, you need some special tool to bleed the abs pump
what do you mean by new brake being put it, for regular service such as brake pad and rotor replacement, the fluid part of the system have nothing to do with it.
unless the dude did the brake before is an idoit and let the piston fell off.
it's really rare for air in the system that will bring the pedal to the floor, unless he left the piston hanging out and all the brake juice come out.
check the master cylinder(the paint under it will tell you is there brake fluid there), tall the lines, caliper seals and possilble wheel cylinder seals.
have your mechanic FLUSH the system while you at it.
beside that, you might need to bleed the ABS system, for the older high/low pressure pump system for earlier honda, you need some special tool to bleed the abs pump
OH GOD!!!! i really miss my subaru now. I bought this car after my old one died and I went thru a program for low income single parents I guess thats what I got a BS car. OK, well at least I have a better view on what could possiblity be wrong and start saving up instead of just taking this guys word for it. You guys were great.
Hey,
Heres one for you. Its not the master cylinder. I know someone who had the same issue with their 1991 honda and replaced that and still happened
I have a 1991 honda some thing happened today. took it in ..they said they have been coming in and fixing hte master is not fixing it. You Can stop..You do have brakes. however when idle (at a stop sign or in the line up at a drive through) you start to feel peddle slowly going to the floor and unless you take your foot off the break completely and then apply the brakes again you will keep going. I'm still looking for other messages on the net to see if others are experiencing it. this was the only post that showed that someone had the master replaced and it was fixed.
however this person i know did not have it happen right after it was fixed it was few days before it happened again
Heres one for you. Its not the master cylinder. I know someone who had the same issue with their 1991 honda and replaced that and still happened
I have a 1991 honda some thing happened today. took it in ..they said they have been coming in and fixing hte master is not fixing it. You Can stop..You do have brakes. however when idle (at a stop sign or in the line up at a drive through) you start to feel peddle slowly going to the floor and unless you take your foot off the break completely and then apply the brakes again you will keep going. I'm still looking for other messages on the net to see if others are experiencing it. this was the only post that showed that someone had the master replaced and it was fixed.
however this person i know did not have it happen right after it was fixed it was few days before it happened again
Thats exactly what happens. I come to a stop right, like a light, and then the peddle just start sinking to the floor. I try to "pump" it like I was told but it still does it. Once or twice I've had to hit the brake and the car stopped but not as fast as I think it would have if I didnt have this problem. There are times when everything is completely fine and the brakes work normal like in any car. You know, I'm completely buffled now.
I think you need a new master cylinder. Here's a link if you want to bleed them yourself.
http://www.hondahookup.com/for...09860
http://www.hondahookup.com/for...09860
Do yourself a favor if you're mechanically inclined and purchase a repair manual for your car. In there it will tell you effect/cause and in this instance it would tell you to bleed the brakes (and how to do so properly) and if the problem persists it would next be your master cylinder. There is a step by step walk through which is very easy to do.
I am willing to bet it's your master cylinder and possibly air in your system. Both of these problems are very easy to fix and with replacing the master cylinder you basically replace all the brake fluid (through refill and bleeding) and you will notice a greater braking response.
A good repair manual is chiltons, haynes, helms etc...all can be found at your local book store or auto store. Good luck and happy wrenching.
I am willing to bet it's your master cylinder and possibly air in your system. Both of these problems are very easy to fix and with replacing the master cylinder you basically replace all the brake fluid (through refill and bleeding) and you will notice a greater braking response.
A good repair manual is chiltons, haynes, helms etc...all can be found at your local book store or auto store. Good luck and happy wrenching.
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Not to Thread Hijack..
But to the OP Im having the same problem and just finished bleeding the brakes in the sequence that the Honda manual dicates.
And same problem, I also relieved the pressure from the ABS unit and same thing.
My Brake Mater Cylinder has no signs of leak from the bottom of the booster, but will take it out and see if its leaking from the inside.
I'll keep you guys posted if I fix the problem.
If anyone is interested I have the Honda Manual in PDF format if anyone needs it.
But to the OP Im having the same problem and just finished bleeding the brakes in the sequence that the Honda manual dicates.
And same problem, I also relieved the pressure from the ABS unit and same thing.
My Brake Mater Cylinder has no signs of leak from the bottom of the booster, but will take it out and see if its leaking from the inside.
I'll keep you guys posted if I fix the problem.
If anyone is interested I have the Honda Manual in PDF format if anyone needs it.
You should rebuild the master cylinder. With snap ring pliers and a few other tools it's a lot cheaper than replacing it.
But this is definately your problem. A spongy pedal will not "fade" it just feels soft.
And more than likely the car has never had a brake fluid flush. If it had then this would not have been an issue.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and this moisture causes rust and corrosion in the brake system, thus the failure your experiencing.
Good luck.
But this is definately your problem. A spongy pedal will not "fade" it just feels soft.
And more than likely the car has never had a brake fluid flush. If it had then this would not have been an issue.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and this moisture causes rust and corrosion in the brake system, thus the failure your experiencing.
Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dentsrme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok don't mean to sound all stupid but if I knew what I was talkin about would be on this site but what is "OP"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Original Poster IE you
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should rebuild the master cylinder. With snap ring pliers and a few other tools it's a lot cheaper than replacing it.
But this is definately your problem. A spongy pedal will not "fade" it just feels soft.
And more than likely the car has never had a brake fluid flush. If it had then this would not have been an issue.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and this moisture causes rust and corrosion in the brake system, thus the failure your experiencing.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But for the money why not just get a new/rebuilt one? I think when I did mine on my old 90 accord it was 60 dollars then 30 for the core, it was a nissin (oem) rebuilt one from kragen. And honestly, no offense to the OP, from the sounds of it it sounds like he can barely do simple repairs (bleeding brakes etc) what makes you think he is capable of rebuilding a master cylinder? Less headache, slightly more expensive just go with a rebuilt one from kragen and call it a day.
Original Poster IE you
.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MooGoCow3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should rebuild the master cylinder. With snap ring pliers and a few other tools it's a lot cheaper than replacing it.
But this is definately your problem. A spongy pedal will not "fade" it just feels soft.
And more than likely the car has never had a brake fluid flush. If it had then this would not have been an issue.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and this moisture causes rust and corrosion in the brake system, thus the failure your experiencing.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But for the money why not just get a new/rebuilt one? I think when I did mine on my old 90 accord it was 60 dollars then 30 for the core, it was a nissin (oem) rebuilt one from kragen. And honestly, no offense to the OP, from the sounds of it it sounds like he can barely do simple repairs (bleeding brakes etc) what makes you think he is capable of rebuilding a master cylinder? Less headache, slightly more expensive just go with a rebuilt one from kragen and call it a day.
He is a she.
And all I know about car are crank pullies from a subaru other then that checking oil and putting gas in it is about all I know. This is why I've come to this site.
I'm having the car look at this weekend. Nearly went thru a stop sign b/c I couldn't stop the car going down a hill. No good!!! Will let ya know what happens.
And all I know about car are crank pullies from a subaru other then that checking oil and putting gas in it is about all I know. This is why I've come to this site.
I'm having the car look at this weekend. Nearly went thru a stop sign b/c I couldn't stop the car going down a hill. No good!!! Will let ya know what happens.
It may have been said before, but air in the lines will make the pedal feel spongy, but not sink to the floor. If the master cylinder is leaking, it's on the inside, not the outside where you can see it. The master cylinder needs to be changed, and new fluid bled through the system. Hope you get it fixed before something bad happens. Good luck
Well, got it looked and "fixed" it was the Master Cylinder and 2 rear wheel Cylinder (?) so I pick it was later will let you know how it runs. Thank you so much for all your helpful info. I so greatly appreciate it!!!!!!
Well, got it looked and "fixed" it was the Master Cylinder and 2 rear wheel Cylinder (?) so I pick it up later will let you know how it runs. Thank you so much for all your helpful info. I so greatly appreciate it!!!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dentsrme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He is a she.
And all I know about car are crank pullies from a subaru other then that checking oil and putting gas in it is about all I know. This is why I've come to this site.
I'm having the car look at this weekend. Nearly went thru a stop sign b/c I couldn't stop the car going down a hill. No good!!! Will let ya know what happens. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotcha. This site is a great place to learn info about honda's, welcome
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dentsrme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, got it looked and "fixed" it was the Master Cylinder and 2 rear wheel Cylinder (?) so I pick it up later will let you know how it runs. Thank you so much for all your helpful info. I so greatly appreciate it!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad to have helped. I forgot about those rear cylinders on the drums...those tend to go out. Here is the part that tends to have an effect:

(#13/14)
But the main part that caused your pedal to sink was the master cylinder.
And all I know about car are crank pullies from a subaru other then that checking oil and putting gas in it is about all I know. This is why I've come to this site.
I'm having the car look at this weekend. Nearly went thru a stop sign b/c I couldn't stop the car going down a hill. No good!!! Will let ya know what happens. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gotcha. This site is a great place to learn info about honda's, welcome
.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dentsrme »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, got it looked and "fixed" it was the Master Cylinder and 2 rear wheel Cylinder (?) so I pick it up later will let you know how it runs. Thank you so much for all your helpful info. I so greatly appreciate it!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad to have helped. I forgot about those rear cylinders on the drums...those tend to go out. Here is the part that tends to have an effect:

(#13/14)
But the main part that caused your pedal to sink was the master cylinder.
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