Is it possible to order some rota slipstreams in 15x7 front 15x6.5 rear or will i have to buy to sets and then mix and match, then sell the other set

 

i'm sure you could order pairs of wheels. any particular reason why you want to do this?

 

ive read that with 15x7 in the front will help the tires i got be more planted
Ive got RT615 azenis tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive read that with 15x7 in the front will help the tires i got be more planted
Ive got RT615 azenis tires</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd just get 15x7's all around. there's no reason to run 15x6.5's in the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd just get 15x7's all around. there's no reason to run 15x6.5's in the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

running a smaller tire/wheel in the rear will only make understeer worse.

actually thats backwards. whee for posting before you are awake!


Modified by Kamin at 10:23 AM 5/30/2006

 

actually, a smaller rear tire will make the car more nuetral or oversteer more.

 

haha the funny part

i know that.

i keep thinking of stagger the OTHER way because thats what im used to.

oops

 

usually having wider tires/wheels helps period

 

I think he is looking at decreasing rear traction to achieve better handling balance, but there other ways which are more tunable, less expensive and less perminent than purchasing staggered wheels.

 

true. also, you don't really need to stagger the wheel size, only the tire size.. both 205, and a 195 sized tires will all fit on a 15" wheel. You can even get a 225/45/15 in some R compound brands.

Also, if you have GC type coilovers, you can also swap out rear springs, which is cheaper than getting different tires. although if it is a street driven car, the stiff rear rates can be uncomfortable. he could also look for a couple of cheap, used 14" wheels to throw some 195s or 185s on, and just swap them out at the track.

 

i seen a while ago this JUN EK4 with Front: 225/45-16, Rear: 195/55-15 tires how would this help on a road course

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'd just get 15x7's all around. there's no reason to run 15x6.5's in the rear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah he's right. just run 15x7 all around. Then you will have more options if one of your rims bend or for spares or something. 15x7 will work with 225s and 205s.

 

stagger the tires not the rim.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i seen a while ago this JUN EK4 with Front: 225/45-16, Rear: 195/55-15 tires how would this help on a road course</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm probably not the best person to try and explain this stuff but from what I understand it's just different tuning concepts.

The simple explanation, without getting into a debate is that the "JDM" tuners tend to setup their FWD Honda's with stiff springs, larger/wider tires and high camber angles up front. The rears tend to use softer rear springs with smaller/narrower tires. The goal is maximize front grip. The rear contact patch is reduced and springs softened to achieve neutral handling and good rotation.

The tuners here in the states take a different approach and try to make the rear take on more of the handling load using higher rear spring rates and stiffer rear sway bars. This setup attempts to reduce the load on the already overworked fronts and distribute the cornering forces more evenly.

If you want to know more technical info do some searching on this forum. This topic has been discussed in depth awhile back.

 

Actually, a stiffer rear tends to just skip over the surface and not stick very well--which is the whole point. In addition, the softer front has more compliance over the surface and thus sticks better.

 

I aways thought of it this way. If you were standing on one side of the car and pushing it as if to tip it over (the same forces seen in cornering) the corner with the stiffer spring or more roll resistance will be taking more of the force. I don't believe the rear stiff setup is to reduce rear traction as much as it is to have the rears absorb some more of the cornering force thus opening up some more available traction up front.

 

Here you go, read it till your brain explodes..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=231870

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here you go, read it till your brain explodes..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=231870</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, I tried reading that a while ago...I just gave up and tried something easier, like quantum physics.

 

those guys should have just had a good f--k and called it a day. i'm smarter than you, so suck my stuff! hope their dad does'nt think he put them through college to try and find butthole on websites.

 

^ i bet when someone asks what kind of suspension modifications your street car has, you reply "its lowered"

 

mine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by K20A_EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine</TD></TR></TABLE>

He was referring to aak.

 

i was concidering staggered offset wheels also, anyone know how this would afect handling

 

basically, you use springs and tires to control weight transfer/loading and grip.

run a smaller tire, and you reduce grip on that corner. smaller rear tires will cause th rear end to lose grip sooner than if you had all 4 tires the same. this can work well if your car is already understeering. I've seen a few people run a tire stagger very successfully.

but suspension tuning if often a bit more complicated than just throwing on a smaller set of rear tires. alignment, spring rates, and sway bar sizes will also affect front/rear balance during corning. It may work just fine with just the tire change, but you also may need to tweek another part of the suspension to get the balance just the way you like it. its a lot of trial and error, and personal preference.