im doing the brakes on my bosses car, 93 si lude.. just a quick question, whats the order for bleeding the brakes? driver front, passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front? im only doing the pads on the front though.. so is it even necessary to bleed all the brakes??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchEh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im doing the brakes on my bosses car, 93 si lude.. just a quick question, whats the order for bleeding the brakes? driver front, passenger rear, driver rear, then passenger front? im only doing the pads on the front though.. so is it even necessary to bleed all the brakes??</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need to bleed the brakes if you're just changing pads. Just take the cap off of the reservior and make sure the fluid doesn't overflow when you push the pistons in.

 

i thought the same...but he insisted i do... so he opens up the bleeder valve to do it himself... and there was no one in the car holding the pedal so he calls me 10mins ago and tells me there now goin down to the ground slowly and mushy... and the resevior got low... he just added more.. now they HAVE to get bled..

anyone which i should start with and what the order goes? ...this is pissin me off.. ugh!

 

BUMP
cuz now the brakes are mooshy... i bled them all around and added fluid prior to.
when the car drives, it goes down to the ground... still stops... but not till the floor.
BUT if your sitting at a light, for instance, they feel more stiff than previously...

why else would this be? ALL my cars did this after a brake job.. but it would harden up after driving around the block...(civics)

this prelude though also has its ABS light on... he said its been on for years. But this never used to happen with the brakes.. so what could it be?

oh and BTW, all the ABS fuses are good, but when i checked the ABS relay with my multimeter for continuity.. i got nothing..not sure if its suppose to have any though...

any thoughts??

 

start with the brake thats farthest away from the master cylinder
and then go to the next one that farthest away and so on.

check the connestors for each wheel and the wiring around it as far as the abs goes.

the connectors will most likely be orange

 

when you bleed the brakes also make sure that you pushing down on the brake
pedal when you go to unscrew the bolt, then tighten it up quickly.

repeat this process until there is a fluent stream of fluid coming out
w/o any air then move on to the next caliper.

make sure theres plenty of fluid in the resovior as well each time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you bleed the brakes also make sure that you pushing down on the brake
pedal when you go to unscrew the bolt, then tighten it up quickly.

repeat this process until there is a fluent stream of fluid coming out
w/o any air then move on to the next caliper.

make sure theres plenty of fluid in the resovior as well each time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well yea i got that part, its just i knew there was an order, wasnt sure if it was closest to furthest or vice versa.

but yea.. i have no clue why his pedal is still goin to the ground like that.. it stops fine... but not till the pedal reachs close to the ground. and its mooshy along the way, but not a bubbly feeling as if theres air in the lines...

and every caliper i'ev bled always squirted out a stream with no signs of air... i had the person pump the pedal then hold it hard while i bled each atleast 7-10 times; periodically checking the resivior for a sufficient amount.

it almost HAS to be an ABS problem (i Topped off the fluid in that too..) but what i dont get is... the lights been on for years he says and the brakes never did this...

 

anyone
???
BUMP

 

has he ever changed his brake master cylinder?

there is a correct order for bleeding prelude brakes

iirc its RF, LR, LF, RR

i have to check my helms to be sure though

 

im gonna check that next... how could you tell if its bad?

 

sinking pedal is the biggest indicator of a bad Master Cylinder

 

straight from the helms in my lap: RR, FL, RL, FR

 

tell ur boss to buy a helms. it'll pay for itself in one repair and less guesswork. goodluck man. u'll also see how to replace a master cylinder in the helms.

 

Ya probably a bad MC

In the helms they also tell you how to test for it.
- Engine off, press pedal several times then press hard and hold. if it sinks its the MC or a leak.
- turn on the car with the brake depressed. If it doesn't sink slightly the booster is bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blulude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">straight from the helms in my lap: RR, FL, RL, FR</TD></TR></TABLE>

good deal, i knew it was that same pattern, i just started off in the wrong area