? I need reliability too.

 

LS/VTEC! .....just think about it.swaps are not ever going to be easy!and things never seem to go as planned.so both swaps are going to be about the same in reliability.you will be much more happy with the LS/VTEC

 

b16a, gsr, or gsr block b16 head.
never these are reliable factory designed, will last for many mile motors.

ls/vtec is a peice of ****. not reliable until you dump loads of money, and then still it isnt that great.
for $ b16
for speed h23
for best of both itr or gsr

 

.


[Modified by 95CivicSi, 2:50 AM 4/14/2002]

 

if you want reliability... then rebuild the motor. No matter what motor it is.. whether its LS/VTEC or B16 or B18... rebuild or tearing it down is something you will have to do if you want to be 100% sure its a good motor. Just cuz you buy a brand new swap doesnt mean the motors new. 1st gen b16's are 10 years old...so if you get one and drop it doesnt mean the motors in good shape.
As for LS/VTEC being ****... I guess that guy doesnt know how to build motors then..

 

B16's are the worse VTEC DOHC motors made. NO torque at all.
LS/VTECs are **** if made by shitty engine builders.

for $2400 you can get a rebuilt LS VTEC with head, includes all new timing belt, gaskets, etc.
And it will be 13's easily.

Drop a GSR in the same car, the LS/VTEC will still rip on the GSR.

Wil

 

yup, i'm doing an ls/vtec myself also, total cost of my ls/vtec swap is the same as paying someone to install a stock b16a in my car. my ls/vtec is built using mostly stock components, and should pump out b18c5 like numbers. just do research, and understand that if not built correctly(like anything) the motor might not handle the rpm your throwing at it. also understand that you always sacrifice some reliability for speed. there's always a trade off.

 

I like high revving tho. Power is made rpm X tourque. So just rev high.

Where the hell would I get a LS/VTEC anyways. Is it a LS engine converted to run VTEC ???????????? Sounds unrealiable before we start

 

please explain where one can get a nicely rebuilt ls vtec for $2400...what parts? what head? what block? b18a, or b18b? b16 or b18c? rebuild with stock parts, or rebuilt with forged parts? details please.

 

$2400 if you do it yourself...the only way to go for most of us.

 

I usually do the LS blocks, with CTR pistons, Shot peened rods, NEw bearings, New GSR oil pump, new oil pan gasket, new rings, machined/honed/prepped for the new pistons. for around $1400 and thats including the LS B18A block(depending on availability)

Then I get the head prepped for the VTEC conversion, New Earl's steel braided lines and fittings, resurface the head, include timing belt if I put together the motor, new intake mani gasket, and including the B16A head(depending on availability), New Head gasket, ARP head studs $1000.00

You'll get a quality build up with all these parts. This is the right way of building this motor. You can take the next step by upgrading the rods and pistons, but the CTR pistons and rods is good enough for the average all motor enthusiast.
There is no other way of doing this motor. Anything less is not a quality build up.

Wil

 

that's like asking, no torque? or torque?
LS/VTEC
Exospeed LS/VTEC
B20/VTEC

 

what kind of power numbers can one expect from that setup? and where would you consider the 'redline'?

 

that is LOL

 

**** the bullshit... go for b20/vtec.

 

well, IMO, Ls/vtec is the way to go. I have driven two b16 powered crxs and they were nice, had tons of top end pull. But as of monday when i pulled my single cam motor out of my 88dx hatch, my mind will never be changed. Ls/vtec w/ y1 tranny!!! We had it running in two days put in by myself and two friends, since tuesday i've put over 250 miles on it and it's running great. i pieced the motor together over about a 2 month period and put it all together myself!! Total cost for everything was only about 1300$!! including our custom mounts, linkage, and brackets. I regret nothing about it. i could easily beat any stock b16 crx out there no doubt. just my opinion, i'm not looking to argue, but it is very possible if you put your mind to it to have a reliable, fast, fun ls/vtec.

 

b16 for reliablity...how much TQ do you really need in a little **** crx anyways....either way it will be a fun car to drive

 

enough to beat the guy next to you


[Modified by hot_EF, 1:03 AM 4/16/2002]

 

This kid isnt ready for LS/VTEC or any DOHC motor, just build up your lil Si to gain some tooling skills and then move on. You swap in anything with descent power your bound to kill yourself!lol...

 

No block girdle, etc.?

 

of course he'd be happy with a b16 or a lsvtec, but then he drives his friends b20vtec and oh ****, he creams in his pants,.. wishing he didnt ***** out for the b16 which everyone and their mother has.. b16 is like the new si.. and zc is like the new dx, has anyone seen the dyno tests from b20vtecs? compare that with an lsvtec, both will be reliable if you swap it correctly, and b20 because of its torque is great for autocrossing or drag, so when you run from the cops you dont haveta downshift to get around that corner cuz you have crazy torque even at 2000 rpm..

 

LS/VTEC

-ryan

 

BLock Girdle... as in block guard? or the Z10 piece?
Dont need any of those.
never used them in the past 2 years, why would we need it now? Just our opinion and from experience. It wont hurt to use it, If you have extra cash, I'd get it.

Wil

 

I think he was talking abou the girdle that the GSR and ITR comes with to help with vibration at high RPMS...I would definetly suggest it if any thought of spinning your motor past 9grand...but as far as block guards go I think its a stupid option as well, heating problems start to occur.

 

cream in his pants eh?
I know I did!
"how embarrassing"
PS how do you get dookie stains off Sparco fabric?