I just swapped turbo setups and the new manifold I am using places the turbo quite a bit lower. The T3/T4 oil drain flange is actually sitting right next to my oil drain flange on the pan. I connected it with a 1" line to make an "unkinked" U. I was thinking about replacing moth flanges with some earls pieces to make it more direct, which would end up being a total of 2-4" long.

My question is has anyone else had this problem. I know others have used similar manifolds from Spoolin, RC Autoworks and SLS, but I've never seen any pics, or heard of this "problem" come up. Are there any suggestions to a resolution?

Here are the pics...
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once the turbo is clocked, the drain sits right below where the pan meets the block


Modified by Autoworks at 3:36 AM 12/3/2006

 

maybe they make an oil pan spacer so you can lower the pan and get more of an angle for the drain?

 

i wouldnt do that. make something else work. ur pickup will be sitting higher in the pan and ull need to figure out how much more oil etc, to run in the pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe they make an oil pan spacer so you can lower the pan and get more of an angle for the drain?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lowering the pan would put it too close, if not on the 3" downpipe. It would also possibly make the pan lower than the Innovative crossmember...
Any other suggestions?? I don't want to move the pan.


Modified by Autoworks at 6:06 PM 5/27/2006

 

Do you have a straight on shot from the front of the motor? You may be able to do it in a hardline.

 

Need better pics of the drain and fitting

 

Mine is very close to this, only my drain points straight down and is maybe 2-3" lower...about where the "A C" in Full-Race is

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt do that. make something else work. ur pickup will be sitting higher in the pan and ull need to figure out how much more oil etc, to run in the pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then you can just put a spacer on the pickup as well. and if the pan hits the downpipe, cut the pan and give the DP some clearance.

just some options.

 

with your IC piping do you HAVE to clock the turbo straight down?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with your IC piping do you HAVE to clock the turbo straight down?</TD></TR></TABLE>
pretty much

 

see how much you can get away with and how much a max angle you can get

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see how much you can get away with and how much a max angle you can get</TD></TR></TABLE>
Clocking the charge pipe side won't move the center section. I clocked it on the car last night just to get it lined up to finish the piping. I'd have to take it off and clock the center quite a bit to get the drain far enough away to make a difference. That would make it point towards the front considerably; probably about where it sits in the above Full-Race pic, only my turbo sits lower.

My real concern is whether or not oil will get backed up being that there isn't much verticality in the drain path.

 

arent u able to have the oil drain 30 degrees off center?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arent u able to have the oil drain 30 degrees off center?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's what it is in the full-race pic.

 

guys the newer Greddy kits run the return line to the BACK of the pan, and REPLACE THE DRAIN PLUG

if this works, and it does because i have done quite a few kits and it has been over a year since the first with no issue, the i dont see an issue running it lower on the pan

the pickup for the pump is located towards the bottom andyways and will help pull the oil from the line

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys the newer Greddy kits run the return line to the BACK of the pan, and REPLACE THE DRAIN PLUG

if this works, and it does because i have done quite a few kits and it has been over a year since the first with no issue, the i dont see an issue running it lower on the pan

the pickup for the pump is located towards the bottom andyways and will help pull the oil from the line</TD></TR></TABLE>

does oil pressure come into play on something like this? is it possible to run enough oil pressure through the turbo to keep oil from backing up into the drain line? if thats the case, wouldnt you be able to mount the drain anywhere on the pan as long as there is enough pressure to keep the drain from backing up? unless the oil pressure itself doesnt actually make it into the drain line... Of course then you have to worry about oil seals as well...

kinda odd that the GReddy kit is like that, since under acceleration all the oil in the pan is pushed toward the drain plug. You would think that it wouldnt work at all as a drain line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

does oil pressure come into play on something like this? is it possible to run enough oil pressure through the turbo to keep oil from backing up into the drain line? if thats the case, wouldnt you be able to mount the drain anywhere on the pan as long as there is enough pressure to keep the drain from backing up? unless the oil pressure itself doesnt actually make it into the drain line... Of course then you have to worry about oil seals as well...

kinda odd that the GReddy kit is like that, since under acceleration all the oil in the pan is pushed toward the drain plug. You would think that it wouldnt work at all as a drain line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

turbos require very little amount of oil, i mean most of us have to restrict our oil flow due to the high oil pressures we have in our cars, even BB turbos.

the oil pump moves enough volume, im sure, to excavate the oil

 

Adding more oil pressure to a slower moving oil drain will push oil out the seals, not out the drain.

I'd suggest getting a custom flange made for the turbo. Have it angle it towards the pan, have the custom fitting use 1/8" steel with a 1/2" steel tube welded/brazed at an angle, then worm the ss braided line in there.

 

From below...
(pic removed)From this angle I see that I can probably run a 90 degree fitting and possibly a swivel fitting to a fitting at the bung and connect the turbo to the drain.


Modified by Autoworks at 3:36 AM 12/3/2006

 

dont do that.

the oil drain in the pan doesnt have to be above the oil level, contrary to popular belief.

like the dude above said, the greddy kit puts it in the oil drain plug

i have mine well below the oil level, and it is 100% fine.

oil will never rise above the oil level, just think about it. what would be keeping it up there (besides a slight bit of surface tension with the walls of the tube)-nothing. its going to go down, and you'll be fine. keep the oil like straight, and have it go somewhere lower in the pan, and you'll be 100% good. nothing to worry about. better yet, send it over to one side, so you have more tube above the oil level, thus giving the oil more place to go when it is thicker and not flowing down as quickly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aallbbeerrtttttt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for your helpful contribution

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont do that.

the oil drain in the pan doesnt have to be above the oil level, contrary to popular belief.

like the dude above said, the greddy kit puts it in the oil drain plug

i have mine well below the oil level, and it is 100% fine.

oil will never rise above the oil level, just think about it. what would be keeping it up there (besides a slight bit of surface tension with the walls of the tube)-nothing. its going to go down, and you'll be fine. keep the oil like straight, and have it go somewhere lower in the pan, and you'll be 100% good. nothing to worry about. better yet, send it over to one side, so you have more tube above the oil level, thus giving the oil more place to go when it is thicker and not flowing down as quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you say "don't do that" are you saying don't leave it how it is or don't replace it with a "short direct" connection? I see how moving the drain bung to a different location further away would make for a longer smoother path than how it currently is; but how would that be better to a short horizontal path? Right now oil has got to be sitting in the tube, which is what I don't want. I started the car last night for the 1st time with this setup to check for leaks or anything else, and everything was OK. I was thinking about looking for a 90degree fitting today for the turbo and removing that straight one (vise versa for the pan). That should point the 2 right at eachother with the turbo drain being slightly higher than the pan.

 

put a 90 degreee fitting facing the front of the car, then loop the hose onto your pan fitting. ive done this in the past and its worked great every time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put a 90 degreee fitting facing the front of the car, then loop the hose onto your pan fitting. ive done this in the past and its worked great every time. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That seems like it would easily work. The hose would be about 18" long, but that's no biggie

 

a 90 fitting seems like a great idea.

by "dont do that" i meant dont make it loop down, then have to go up straight up, higher than the oil level in the pan. not your best bet..

but a slightly clocked turbo, so te 90 fitting is aiming slightly down, works great. i did that in a similar situation to yours a while back. (didnt think about it until somebody said it)