Big CRX Electrical problem! Plz Help
Hi, lets get to the story :D
i was driving home a few days ago and my car suddenly dies on me, i tried to start it and nohing, just cranks, now, i towed it home.. and checked the next things.
Fuel pump is good
main relay is good
i have battery
the starter cranks
the injector clicks
ecu is fine
dizzy is fine
so..
i was thinking on some ground, i can not see a ground near the thermostar housing.. can anyone post a pic please
..
now, there is a 2p connector to the dizzy, one is ok 12v, the ground is only 5v.. could this be my problem, and if so.. what i have to do..
thnkx
now for some pics
ppl please help me!!!
I FORGOT TO MENTION I HAVE NO SPARK!!
Modified by suspirocrx at 7:18 PM 5/25/2006
i was driving home a few days ago and my car suddenly dies on me, i tried to start it and nohing, just cranks, now, i towed it home.. and checked the next things.
Fuel pump is good
main relay is good
i have battery
the starter cranks
the injector clicks
ecu is fine
dizzy is fine
so..
i was thinking on some ground, i can not see a ground near the thermostar housing.. can anyone post a pic please
..
now, there is a 2p connector to the dizzy, one is ok 12v, the ground is only 5v.. could this be my problem, and if so.. what i have to do..
thnkx
now for some pics
ppl please help me!!!
I FORGOT TO MENTION I HAVE NO SPARK!!
Modified by suspirocrx at 7:18 PM 5/25/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by payneth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem is that you have a yellow CRX. Those things are cursed to hell... </TD></TR></TABLE>
check the timing belt, make sure that no teeth jumped or sheared off. check the plugs(maybe fouled) also just because you may hear the pump prime doesn't necessarily mean its good, so do a pressure test the pump may prime up but not have enough pressure.
There should be a single wire coming out of the main harness that is the ground wire that goes to the thermostat. If you look close at the thermostat housing you should see 3 bolts. 2 are to hole the housing on and 1 that should connect the ground wire.
Another thing to check is the screw that holds the rotor in the dizzy. They fall out and the rotor just spins around.
Another thing to check is the screw that holds the rotor in the dizzy. They fall out and the rotor just spins around.
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<<<<<i can see from the pic you show that the ground wire is there. just check and make sure its tight >>>>
I just doble checked and re tight it..
its fine
<<<<<take off the oil cap, look at the rockers and have someone turn the engine over and see if the they move(meaning that the belt is still connected) but the timing belt still may have jumped teeth. >>>>>>><
the timing belt its fine, we've already checked it..
<<<<<<<<<Check the Alternator/Starter fuse under the dash. If not that, check teh timing, all grounds. >>>>>>>>>>>< ;
all fuses seems ok, but im gonna double check them, also, the grounds are all checked, if it would be off timing i would get spark no ways..
<<<<<<<<<<Also check the alternator... do the lights dim out? And does the speedo jump all irratically? The distributor.. coil.. etc. Voltimeter is your friend here. >>>>>>>>>>>
the lights dont dim, my speedo doesnt do anything, i cant get the car to start
i measure the 2 pin connector in the dizzy, in the BLK/YEL wire i have +12v, and in the other wire, BLUEWhite i think, is a ground i think, cause i measure beetween that pin and + in battery and i get +6V....
i dont know if thats ok, please help m,e!!
Bad grounds to the block/starter, it won't crank over, since you are, don't worry about those. Check the grounds at the dizzy. Just cause it's getting juice doesn't mean it's actually using it. Another thing, my ignitor died and I have the same problem. Replace it (for the cost you should do it anyways). Do the same for the coil. Exchange them for a known working one, or borrow a friends dizzy and try it, see what happens. I've had my dizzy die twice in 2 months. Well three times, but I fixed one on the side of the road. The ignitor died, stranded me at my shop. Then my alternator seized and overloaded my coil, it fried. Then my dizzy rotor fell off, but no damage so I screwed it back in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspirocrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
there is a 2p connector to the dizzy, one is ok 12v, the ground is only 5v.. could this be my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
the other wire is blue and is the tach signal wire and won't have anything to do with it not having spark
there is a 2p connector to the dizzy, one is ok 12v, the ground is only 5v.. could this be my problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
the other wire is blue and is the tach signal wire and won't have anything to do with it not having spark
in the begining you said "the dizzy is fine" if its fine then why are you swappin to test with a friends dizzy? how are you checking spark? are you sure that your friends dizzy is good? trace the wires there has to be an open wire, also check all the main harness connectors i spent 3 days chasing my tail for a broken main harness connector that was giving me all kinds of weird symptoms. the plastic tab that keeps the connectors together broke and they were barely touching which gave me false readings and **** was acting haywire. is the tach needle jumping irradically while cranking?
same thing happend years ago to me. When i took my distibutor off, it wouldnt spin, it kind of grinded. I was cruisin about 70 and it just flat out stalled, cranks fine, just no spark. If you havent replaced dizzzy, just get one off ebay, mines worked fine for years
check ur relay or if u have alarm, it's mayb ur kill switch, it alwayz happens
u check all the big things but little things can do as worst
u check all the big things but little things can do as worst
I read through the whole post and realy havent seen these ideas mentioned. First make sure youve got fuel making it to the fuel rail. Loosen the nut on the end of the rail and turn ign on. The pump will prime and you should see fuel come from that point. If not take the nut completly out hold hose in your hand away from engine and try again. If fuel barely seeps out replace filter or pump accordingly. Now if it has already been found not to be a fuel problem check spark by pulling out a spark plug attaching the plug wire to it and cranking the car. DONT HOLD THE SPARK PLUG WHEN DOING THIS!!!!!! lay it on the valve cover Make sure no fuel is there from previous test. test all plugs and there respective wires to rule out plug failure. If no spark is found work your way back to the coil. Get a volt /Amp meter and measure AMPS ONLY between coil and dizzy. DO NOT USE VOLTAGE SETTING!!! you will ruin the tester and risk shock. The voltage is too high for a normal tester Above 10,000volts! If you measure any trace of amperage above 1 amp it is likely the coil is good and the problem lies with the dizzy. If you dont know how to measure amperage dont try this and get a knowledgeable person in the electrical field to help! If the coil shows no signs of life then check the voltages going to it. Should be 12 volts but not sure. If there is no 12 volts then its either a relay or fuseable link somewhere(fuse). Good luck
If your near me Id be glad to help. South carolina
If your near me Id be glad to help. South carolina
Man, your problem sounds like mine last weekend...When I got the car home last weekend, it ran. After I unloaded it from the car hauler, and turned it off, it would NOT restart. That was due to the main relay, had to solder all the connections in it over. Before that was fixed, it would just crank. Not even try to start. Eventually, my battery died. SO, I jumped it with my Ram, and it would start...right....but run terrible after I disconnected the jumpers from my truck....and eventually stall out if you tried to move the car...SO, I checked out the battery, and noticed a redish goo coming from the positive terminal.....so I replaced the battery, and at that point, when you would try to CRANK it, it would act as if a fuse blew, and you would have to disconnect/reconnect the battery in order for it to try to crank and blow again. SO, i went ahead and replaced both battery terminal cables with new ones (the negative, I had to use the orginal part from the starter to the fram, but cut it there and connected the new terminal cable at that point) and I made a new strap from the valve cover to the frame.

This may not be your problem? BUT...do give it a look over as I did'nt beleive it was going to fix it, but thought the cables needed replaced anyways, and guess what, she runs like a champ now! A good way to check is jump the car with another car, it will most likely start if this is the problem, as the ground will be going thru the jumper cables to the working car (this would NOT work with our Saturn VUE, I had to use my Dodge Ram in order for it to work!!!!)... lemme know if I can help!!!

This may not be your problem? BUT...do give it a look over as I did'nt beleive it was going to fix it, but thought the cables needed replaced anyways, and guess what, she runs like a champ now! A good way to check is jump the car with another car, it will most likely start if this is the problem, as the ground will be going thru the jumper cables to the working car (this would NOT work with our Saturn VUE, I had to use my Dodge Ram in order for it to work!!!!)... lemme know if I can help!!!
Hi, Thnkx you all for your comments
and... this weekend
i tried the fuel pump thing , and i got fuel
the screwdriver thing to seek for spark and i got no spark
i checked the voltage coming to the dizzy and its fine, the blk/yel wire is Battery Voltage
I also, disconnected my whole alarm cause it was failing anyways. i eliminated all of the kill relevators.
i have my battery recharged
also
there is other 6 pin connector to the dizzy, where only 5 pines are wired
-----------------------
! A ! C ! F !
!----------------------
! B ! D ! !
!----------------------
i was told that the wire that is alone (F) SHOULD have +5v coming from the ecu when the switch is open, and when its on start it should send pulses, i checked with a LED and its getting signal, so i discarg my ecu and mu harness?
also, i checked all my under hood fuses and all are ok
and for the last, i redid the grounds, and changed the battery terminals for some new good looking!!
And the same thjing, i have no spark.. the car cranks, it smells fuel when i crank it...
the relevator is working, i tested it with the manual...
Plz people, what do you think, thnk you all
and... this weekend
i tried the fuel pump thing , and i got fuel
the screwdriver thing to seek for spark and i got no spark
i checked the voltage coming to the dizzy and its fine, the blk/yel wire is Battery Voltage
I also, disconnected my whole alarm cause it was failing anyways. i eliminated all of the kill relevators.
i have my battery recharged
also
there is other 6 pin connector to the dizzy, where only 5 pines are wired
-----------------------
! A ! C ! F !
!----------------------
! B ! D ! !
!----------------------
i was told that the wire that is alone (F) SHOULD have +5v coming from the ecu when the switch is open, and when its on start it should send pulses, i checked with a LED and its getting signal, so i discarg my ecu and mu harness?
also, i checked all my under hood fuses and all are ok
and for the last, i redid the grounds, and changed the battery terminals for some new good looking!!
And the same thjing, i have no spark.. the car cranks, it smells fuel when i crank it...
the relevator is working, i tested it with the manual...
Plz people, what do you think, thnk you all
Did you check injector pulse? Check the resistor box? Start a contunity check from the ecu through the harness,distributor to ecu.
edit, nevermind you said you don't have spark. . Did you happen to look at the coil and ingnitor for any burnt marks on it. Did you do a contunity check. 9/10 its the ingnitor or distributor assembly.
edit, nevermind you said you don't have spark. . Did you happen to look at the coil and ingnitor for any burnt marks on it. Did you do a contunity check. 9/10 its the ingnitor or distributor assembly.



