My problem: My lsvtec is running like ****. It stalls after cold start-up and hesitates and missing the power it should. compression test: 180 across, but the leakdown was 30% in all cylinders except #2 which had 20%. I retarded the ignition timing all the way and it runs somewhat better. I think it might have to do with the valve timing also. the engine is timed at the stock timing marks.

My set-up: usdm type-R pistons in a 98 ls block w/ 89 b16 head iand a obd-0 pw0 ecu in a crx si. I have replaced the ignitor, coil, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires.

when the car is idling and I pull a spark plug boot to any cylinder it runs, but when I pull the spark boot to #2 it stalls. I need help! what could this **** be? Tell me what you think it could be or throw some questions at me.

 

Easiest thing to do is take it to a machanic, and have them tell you what's wrong, then fix it yourself. It's hard to tell you what's wrong, without seeing/heaing the engine in person. I do know, that people complain about the stock ls oil pump, and recommend a b16/type-r oil pump to make sure you get enough oil. Also how does your car idle? Check you ecu, are you throwing any codes?

 

Thanks for a reply, I have an gsr water pump, oil pump, and timing belt. The car idels ok. When I first start it up it drops to a low idle, say like 400 rpm, but it will idle at about 800 rpm when it warms up. I meant to say it drives better when the timing is all the advanced, but when I drive it around the parking lot (big parking lot) it starts to go lean as indicated by the autometer a/f meter. I bought some adjustable cam gears and I'm gonna try to advance the valve timing to see if it cleans up. It defenitly does not have the power it should. Oh yeah there is no check engine light. Its nuts. I was also thinking that the fuel system might not be up to par w/ the setup. Do you know if stock obd-0 injectors & a stock crx si fuel pump can supply enough fuel for a ls/vtec @ low to part throttle.

 

as if u just said that..... we ARE mechanics on honda-tech

 

First off, I would'nt trust anything that autometer digital A/F guage is telling you, they are very unreliable. Only Wideband A/F guages are reliable, so if the car drives fine, then you are probably fine. Also the codes I'm talking about is the codes from the ecu, so you need to turn the car on, and pull up the passenger side carpet and look at the ecu for a code pattern. And let us know what it says, if anything(red light). Also what size injectors are you running, what fuel pump?

So if you thing your car is having trouble based on the A/F guage, then your car is probably fine, a rough idle is ok, and can be abjusted. I'm not ratting on you, I'm just trying to help you out and point you in the right direction

 

The stock b16 injectors are 260cc, and fuel pump is fine for supplying plenty of fuel. So that's not your problem, but check for a fuel leak, the O-rings on the injectors can go bad, and leak.

 

I had the autometer on the crx before I swapped to get an idea of how the stock engine behaves. The lsv does not show the same charateristics as the stock d16. So the fuel nots my prob. do you think that the rings are not seated or the valve timing is retared even though the stock tdc mrks line up? tell me what you think. I am a technician I just don't have alot (zero) swap experiance and there are not alot of honda swap resources in boston. I'll check the o-rings.

 

1) Do you have all of your sensors plugged in and working?
2) Have you had it tuned?

 

all sensor o.k. no cel. No its not tunes but I was advised to drive the car to seat the rings and it should clear up things. If anyone knows a tuner in boston I would check them out though

 

So this is a new swap with a rebuilt engine that has yet to run right? What was done to the engine for the rebuild?

If you have a vacuum gauge or a vacuum pump put that on the intake manifold and tell us it does with the engine running.

I assume you double checked the cam timing.

 

If your fuel pump worked fine before the swap then it should be enough for any low to mid speed driving. If anything it will lean out at the top end.

With your block/head/piston combo don't be dialing in more than 1 or 2 degrees advance on the intake cam. Best to leave that for later with the fine tuning. What we have hear is something that is way off. I would put a travel indicator into the #1 spark plug hole and check to see if your TDC mark is lining up correctly on you crank. You can get 1" travel indicators these days new for $10. You don't need the holder, just bottom out the indicator in the hole with your hand. You will probably need a tip extension. If you have a welder you can just weld a piece of welding rod to the tip, with the tip off.

It is altogether possible if these are new cams that they were ground incorrectly or miss-labeled.

 

Yeah Its completely rebuilt. 98 block w/ usdm oversize type r pistons on a b16 head w/ stock cams, bronze valve guides, 3 angle cut, new type r valve springs, jg titanium retainers.

I put a vacuum gauge on it and it pulls 20 inches w/ the ignition all the way advanced at idle, about 17inches at 16 degress of initial timing.

I was going to put some mystery oil in each cylinder turn it over w/ no plugs in it, put back together and flog it at 4k and let it decel. to seat the rings. If anyone has a better idea, or something maybe I should check give a reply.

I will check the timing before I flog it though.

 

Good. If the vacuum gauge needle was bouncing a lot that would be a sign that something was up with the cam timing or valves.

Breaking it in isn't going to hurt but this thing should strong right off the bat. Something is wrong. I was a mechanic from '70 to '75 so I don't really keep up with all the new stuff that's going on. Just enough to do all my own work.

It sounds like you have enough compression for an engine that isn't broken in. Did you mark the crank pulley for the total advance you want and see if it gets there? If it does, considering what you already replaced, it pretty much leaves a fuel problem.

 

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?

During the swap some crud could have gotten in the fuel and clogged one or two injectors. The cylinder that you pulled the plug on and it died may have a clean injector.

 

The fuel filter was replaced recently. I'm gonna do the do or die breakin and see what happens. thanks for the info I'll keep you updated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugencrxsir1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock b16 injectors are 260cc, and fuel pump is fine for supplying plenty of fuel. So that's not your problem, but check for a fuel leak, the O-rings on the injectors can go bad, and leak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are 240cc.

anyways.. am i the only one who noticed he's using a pw0 on a 1.8l? and you dont know why it's lean?

that ecu is for a b16, you got a b18..

also what exhaust header, the pw0 is looking for 2 o2 sensors.

I didnt see that this pw0 is chipped and properly mapped for a 1.8l if that is the case.

 

The exhaust system consists of a dc 4-2-1 to a cat delete to a stock replacement crx si exhaust. I know the pw0 is for the 1.6 but I thought if a brought the fuel pressure up to the type r's fuel pressure that it would run at a good enough a/f ratio for commuting until I got the cash for 310's and a vtec cotroler/hondata.
yeah i had two o2 bungs welded onto the header .