Ok, I am sick and tired of driving around town looking for these damn bolts. I bought 4 from the Home Depot here only to find out the bolts in the packages are not 1.25 thread. I now have 4 40mm 8 . 8 grade that I got from ACE Hardware and 4 45mm
10 . 9 grade automotive bolts that I got from Pep Boys. The only bad thing about the Pep Boys bolts are the threads only are about halfway up the bolt as you can see in the pics.... I am most likely going to just use the Pep Boys bolts since they are the strongest material. I am measuring the bolt and just under 1" has threads and another 1" without threads. This does NOT include the hex head. Just the shaft of the bolt. Since my camber is off 3 degrees in the rear I am most likely going to need 4-5 washers anyhow.

You'll have to use your imagination since I do not know how to copy pictures. At the time when I took the OEM bolt out I had the Home Depot 40mm lenght (wrong thread pitch) bolts. Those are the 2 bolts in the pic below:



Now here is another 40mm lenght bolt (right thread pitch) lined up against the Pep Boys bolt that is only threaded half way:



Here is another pic of the same 2 bolts showing the size of them. I covered the flash since it was causing a glare on the tape measure:



You can just imagine how much longer the 45mm is to the OEM bolt when looking at the pics. My main concern are the 1" of threads on the Pep Boys bolt. I don't think it will be a problem though since those bolts are really strong.

Here is a site that tells you about the grade / strength of bolts:
http://mdmetric.com/tech/u19e2.htm

What do you think? Pep Boys bolts should be fine?

[i]Previewing Post: Actually, as I am previewing the pics it looks as if the OEM may only be threaded an inch or so. So, I think the Pep Boys bolts should work fine.... Anyone else see this? I am going to be doing this Monday, so hopefully I am seeing all this right...

 

hmm i never had a problem with mine. my uncle helped me and we got the right screws the first time. ill go look in my book to see which screws i bought.

 

Just a tip, check out your local yellow pages for a fastener place. There was a place in greensboro that specialized in nuts and bolts and washers, a suprisingly large place. I went up and they had excatly what I needed and actually helped me out with choosing the correct length and grade. They even checked my bolts to make sure I was getting the right thread because when I did it I couldn't find the info I was looking for.
But I think you are on the right track.. However what is the shaft thickness after the threads on that pep boys bolt and will it thread completely into the hole?
I suspect the 40mm fully threaded bolts are the way to go, as that is what I used, however I know you want the proper grade bolt.
However if you do use 5 washers on that pep boys bolt it might fully seat so you would be fine I suspect, I would just worry about it not fully seating from being to long and the section that is not threaded not going all the way in, if you understand what I'm saying... Sorry I'm not the most technically adept person at this subject

 

to me, the 45 mm bolt seems too long for your rear. I don't know how deep the threads go inside the holes in your wheel well but if you look at the OEM bolt and compare how deep the thread goes and add on the amount for 3 or so washers, you seem way too long. The threads at the top of the bolt are all that matter so it doesn't matter if the bolt one has an inch of thread on the end but you want to try and maintain a bolt that is pretty close to the length of the old bolt but with the additional length of the three washers added. Also, if you look at your OEM bolt, you'll notice the top 1/4 inch is not threaded so you have to figure that Honda probably didn't put that deep of threads inside those wheel well holes.

 

I just added 6 per bolt (Pep Boys bolts) and it straightened the $hit out of my rear wheels. Actually, too much! I bet it's about at 0 degrees and now my rear is rubbing on EVERY little bump. This is after I raised it up maybe a 1/4" of an inch because the rear had been sitting a little lower than the front. So, I am going to miss work today (I'm going to play dumb and act like I had the day off ) and have to go back out and remove 2 washers from each bolt

Pics will be up later

 

Taking a little break before I go back out....
I'm going to remove 3 washers and just hope for no more than 1.8 degrees of negative camber. If I were to remove 2 washers I bet it still will rub hard in the rear. I'll just make sure I rotate the tires between 3 and 4k.

Well here are the pics:









After I took her around the block and rubbed at least 4 times :eek:
That has got to be 0 or maybe even positive camber. I am going to remove 3 of the 6 washers.....



I'll be back

 

each washer should equal out to 1/2 degree of camber correction.

 

how can i correct my front tires?

 

why are you so obsseded with your rear camber? having a degree of negative camber isnt going to kill you and actually give you more traction.

And you can only use the washer trick to correct so many degrees without changing the roll center of the rear of you car. So many washers moves the inner pivot too far out, so when the suspension compresses in a turn, the pivot can't add enough negative camber to keep the tire even with the road.

If you have that much camber to correct, I would get an adjustable link, since that wont alter the roll center of the car.

 

Front requires a kit that either replaces the upper arm or the mounts. That is the only way to adjust the camber. I really haven't found neg. camber to be a hugely negative issue for me, once I got the toe settings prety much straight on my car the wear and handling was just fine. I added two washers to the back arms just as a precaution, but prior to doing that I hadn't really noticed any adverse effects from having the neg 2 degrees of camber or so I had. The front wears a little bit quicker, but just means I rotate my tires a little more often...

 

you can't do it as easily as the rear. get the Progress Group front camber kit..i got it, and lemme tell you..it's very nice. easy to install too.

 

Skunk2 is also a nice kit for the front!

 

I'm not obsessed with my rear camber Just want to do it right that's all. Anyhow, I am just using 3 washers and it seems to look pretty good. I'm getting it realigned in the morning....

 

I'm thinking of doing this trick and wondering...

Do you really have to use a air compressed tool to take out the bolts?

If not and regular hand tools will work. What type of hand tools did yall used to take out the bolts and how hard?

 

How do you know you have 3 deg. camber in the rear? That's a HUGE amount, especially for the rear, which doesn't go into negative camber as much as the front when the suspension is compressed. I'm lowered almost 2" on the back of my Teg and still only have about 1.4 deg. neg. camber. I'm not using any camber correction on my car and my tires are fine so far, so I have no plans for camber correction, unless my tires start to wear pretty bad, but after 7K miles I don't see any signs of that happening.

 

i have kyb adjust able and an eibach pro kit........ looks like i have about 2 degrees of neg camber.... but wen i have fatasses in my car the tires go up into the fender. I'm afraid if i do the washer trick in the back that i will rub. whats weird is the fronts neg camber is almost not noticable anyon have this problem with a 96-98 civic?

 

 

do you really even need longer screws. I just used the OEM screws with 2 washers and my cambers are fine