does it matter how the calipers are mounted? mine are on the back and i read on the "show me clean pics" that it was backwards. the car came with slotted rotors (not sure if thats stock or not) and they were all on "backwards" they have a slight squeek in them but only during easy braking (which is almost all i do) so its very annoying and i was wondering if this will effect performance or cause the noise.

 

On that thread, the poster was referring to the rotors themselves, on which the slots were facing the wrong way. You cannot mount calipers the wrong way, even if you tried. As the wheel is rolling forward, the slots are supposed to hit the pads with the inside edge (nearer to the hub) first like in the picture, so after some imagination, you would notice that his rotors are actually on the right way.

 

you just confused me.

Maybe this helps clear up the confusion..for me anyway:

Which direction should the discs rotate?
It is a popular misconception that the slots or drillings in a disc determine the direction of rotation. In truth, for an internally vented disc, the geometry of the vanes dictates the direction of rotation. There are three vane types in use:

Straight
Pillar vane (comprised of many small posts)
Curved vane
The first two vane types are non-directional, and can be used on either side of the vehicle. The curved vane disc, however, is directional. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Please see figure. Orienting the disc in the manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc's ability to dissipate heat.

Additionally, all of Brembo's slotted discs are directional as well, regardless of the vane geometry. The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On that thread, the poster was referring to the rotors themselves, on which the slots were facing the wrong way. You cannot mount calipers the wrong way, even if you tried. As the wheel is rolling forward, the slots are supposed to hit the pads with the inside edge (nearer to the hub) first like in the picture, so after some imagination, you would notice that his rotors are actually on the right way.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, its irrelevant what direction the slots in the rotor turn.

what matters is the direction of the internal cooling vanes.

different manufacturers slot the outside relative to the internal vanes differently, so you cant really go by that.

 

projekt, your the one giving the info i needed. thanks. thanks to the other people for trying. i was looking at my friends integra and his were the opposite way from mine making me thing they were wrong. any idea as to the squeeks? the shop says pads and rotors are in good condition but have a heat glazing on them from being over heated by the previous owner. any idea on how to take care of that?

 

Whadya know! I learned something today.

 

I told you you couldn't put the calipers on backwards.

The squeaking is probably because of the high end pads you have. Probably.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maireeka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I told you you couldn't put the calipers on backwards.

The squeaking is probably because of the high end pads you have. Probably.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thought i would ask those who for sure knew though. ugh i hate squeek.

 

Check if there's enough Shin-Etsu grease behind the pads. Might be the cause for squeaks/rattles.

 

question: cross-drilled or slotted? works good with stock calipers or just upgrade to a whole BBK... not meaning to thread jack, but this might be useful info

 

if u just got the car u should put your own pads on so u know that u know what is stopping your car. if theyre glazed u need new pads.

remember tho new pads will squeek for something like a couple hundred miles to brake in to the lines of the new rotor. u can just take the wheel off and look at the pad to see how much is left.

if u touch the pad surface it feels like touching sandpaper, if its glazed it feels more like the hood of your car, the pad was overused or overheated, i would buy a new set they are cake to install, they just slide in and out. my g/f's accord had the pads glazed from the previous owner and the mechanic said that they would go back to normal, but they never did so i just paid the $20 and put new pads on her car...u want to be able to trust our brakes, and know what kind of stopping power u have.

 

His pads look almost new I believe, tons of material left. I don't know what the surface looks like though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Mr. Lucky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">question: cross-drilled or slotted? works good with stock calipers or just upgrade to a whole BBK... not meaning to thread jack, but this might be useful info</TD></TR></TABLE>


slotted. im not sure what comes stock on the S. ill take a picture later on today and post of how the brakes look and see if that will help out any. Maireeka lives less than 1/2 mile from me so he knows about the situation first hand also going on with my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check if there's enough Shin-Etsu grease behind the pads</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm almost positive the Shinu-etsu grease is for rubber seals and computer components, not as an anti-squeal brake grease.

If Shinu-etsu works, that's mighty expensive lube for the brake. You can go to your local Autozone or NAPA and pick up Anti-squel brake grease. CRC is a good brand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luder94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm almost positive the Shinu-etsu grease is for rubber seals and computer components, not as an anti-squeal brake grease.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

affirmative good buddy.

 

...it also goes well on toast!

 

butter'd toast or just regular toast? going to take pics now.

*went to get pics and my camera is crap. there just like the ones on the red car though. exactly same look. is that stock?



Modified by Hondageek at 1:25 PM 5/25/2006

 

u could also just use new motor oil, dont get any on the pads or rotor, u just want to make sure that the pads is sliding freely because if it sticks during the disengaging it would keep rubbing and hence the squeeks.

 

as i said its not the entire time i have the brake depressed. only during soft braking, moderate to hard braking it does nothing; usually. when the heat up as i go from stopping at red light to red light sometimes they will squeek a little bit more but they only do it when they are warm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondageek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> the shop says pads and rotors are in good condition but have a heat glazing on them from being over heated by the previous owner. any idea on how to take care of that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

replace the pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hondageek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as i said its not the entire time i have the brake depressed. only during soft braking, moderate to hard braking it does nothing; usually. when the heat up as i go from stopping at red light to red light sometimes they will squeek a little bit more but they only do it when they are warm.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont be cheap replace the pads put a little lube on them, auto stores should have those little condom sized packages for under a buck, check the condition of your rotors while u have the wheels off to make sure they arent gouged, little contour on them is normal. this is an easy 30 minute project for a novice.

 

If you do the pads, I'll help. It's easy peasy especially with your giant brakes.

 

talking about pulling the wheels off i saw on tv at the sema show the new jetta has a built in jack system and one lug per wheel that u can take off by hand...that would make super quick brake changes

 

race cars only have one bolt in the middle but its taken off with an air ratchet. i was watching 12 hours of sebring a while back and the BMW team forgot to tighten the right front one on their M3. it went flying into a tire setup around the first corner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cardriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...it also goes well on toast!</TD></TR></TABLE>

you know shinetsu grease is urea based? yummm.

If you have glazed pads, don't throw them away, sand away the glazed surface of the pad and reinstall and follow proper bedding procedure. There's nothing cheap about re-bedding brake pads, whether it's cheap performance friction pads or endless pads.