how much $$$ would this run to have it done by a shop? just labor, as i would buy the fluid elsewhere. i'm gonna go with dot 4 fluid. any pointers and tips u guys may have would be great too. thanx

 

grab a freind and do it yourself
use valvoline syntech if your just autoXing
cost less than $10

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">grab a freind and do it yourself
use valvoline syntech if your just autoXing
cost less than $10</TD></TR></TABLE>

i second that its pretty easy all you need is a foot, a hand with a wrench, and some clear tube and a old water bottle for the old fluid, and the valvoline or the castrol gtlma work well, or spend $11 on some ATE super blue and be cool

 

ok ok i guess i'll do that tryin to be lazy here but ur rite, why spend money when u can have the pride of doin it urself.
3 questions:

how much fluid is in the entire system? (how much do i buy?)

how will i kno when all the old stuff is flushed out?

at wat point would i install SS lines? (guessing first)

 

My civic takes about a little under 2 little bottles. So I'd say get 3 for your prelude just to be safe and this way you'll most likely have some left over if you need it

You'll be able to tell by the color of the fluid. The old stuff is black and REALLY nasty looking.

Whenever you feel it necessary. But if you are going to flush the system and have the money, do it now.

 

arrite super helpful
yea i figured the old stuff would look nasty
and i meant when in the bleeding procedure should i install lines but i guess thats a no brainer. i'll do it first then bleed the system

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blulude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arrite super helpful
yea i figured the old stuff would look nasty
and i meant when in the bleeding procedure should i install lines but i guess thats a no brainer. i'll do it first then bleed the system</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, definitely install the lines first, then bleed. Also, since you're replacing lines and not just flushing, you'll need extra fluid. I can usually flush with a liter or less; plan on at least twice that since you're openning the system and you'll have a lot of air to get out.

Also, plan to bleed till you get no more air, then go out and "exercise" the ABS (meaning you repeatedly brake hard enough to invoke the ABS) then come back and bleed again. It can take a while to get all the air out when you have ABS.

Since you're doing all this work anyway, it might not hurt to go ahead and replace the master cylinder if it's more than a few years old. I don't know much about Preludes, but the one for the Integra wasn't that expensive (don't remember exactly how much, but definitely less than $100). If you do replace the MC, be sure to bench bleed before installing it. That'll save you a lot of time bleeding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blulude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arrite super helpful
yea i figured the old stuff would look nasty
and i meant when in the bleeding procedure should i install lines but i guess thats a no brainer. i'll do it first then bleed the system</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're doing it yourself, a few tips:

-buy clear vinyl hose. I believe it's a 3/8" ID for the hose to fit over the bleeder screw perfectly.
-when you've flushed all of the old fluid out of 1 line, you'll see the clean fluid in the clear hose. Previously it will have been janky looking fluid.
-whoever's working the brake pedal should NOT use the full travel of the pedal when building pressure and holding. put a 2x4 on the floorboard and prevent the pedal from touching the floor. Older Master Cylinders might have debris build up at the end of the cylinder and since the piston never touches that part, the debris can fubar the seal.
-install SS lines before you flush the fluid. when you cahnge the line, you'll need to bleed the air out, which will happen when you flush the fluid, so, yeah.

be patient, it takes a while to do a full flush.

 

someone told me about using something called speed bleeders. any experience here?

 

ok my helms manual is scaring me. for bleeding the ABS system it seems complicated with some ALB checker machine. can i do this without that? Jack Black: is this what your talkin bout? do i have to do anything with the modulator resevoir?

 

That stuff in the manual is for people with shops and lots of equipment. The thing about ABS is that after you've openned the system, you may end up with a slightly soft brake pedal even though you've bled until no more air comes out at the wheels. In that case, you need to "exercise" the ABS system because it may have gotten air in it. To do that you just find a deserted road and hit the brakes hard enough to activate the ABS. Do that a few times and bleed again. That usually fixes it.

 

You'll find a list of brake fluid boiling points and prices here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blulude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tryin to be lazy here but ur rite, why spend money when u can have the pride of doin it urself.
3 questions:

how much fluid is in the entire system? (how much do i buy?)

how will i kno when all the old stuff is flushed out?

at wat point would i install SS lines? (guessing first)</TD></TR></TABLE>

P.S. Could you please type your posts in English, instead of using those juvenile chat room abbreviations like "ur" and "wat" and "kno"? Your posts are very hard to read. And you sound like my eight-year-old nephew when he is in a chat room with his third-grade classmates. Thank you.

 

/\ /\ relax buddy. You are the only one this seems to bother. The posts are perfectly understandable.

And thanX for the info.

 

Here's some info on the fast way to do it:
http://rr-ax.com/bbs/forums/th...ode=1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's some info on the fast way to do it:
http://rr-ax.com/bbs/forums/th...ode=1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to suggest this method. Very quick way to flush the fluid.

 

[QUOTE=blulude92And <U>thanX</U> for the info.[/QUOTE]
You suck at the internet. Your spelling makes you look like a child.

Don't do the stainless steel lines.
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Pe...s.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You suck at the internet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok
wow......some people

anyway, thanks for the link. pretty informative. can anyone else back that info up with experience?

 

If your fluid has never been flushed before, you're going to be swapping in a new master cylinder when it ***** the bed two days after you flush the system. Ask me how I know.

1 liter will be more than enough fluid to flush the system.

 

do i have to replace the booster at the same time? searched but found no definite answer. thanx