I've been trying to figure this out the ECU keeps throwing the CEL on for CODE 13, Barometric Pressure does anyone have any ideas, please help I want to get this thing smogged soon.....

Thanks for help in advance.

-Aj

 

For some years/models the BARO sensor is built into the ECU, & you have to replace the ECU.

Other years it's a separate sensor. If yours is separate, first check the wiring to the sensor.

 

How can I find out if it's seperate from the ECU? I don't recall there being any extra sensors on the motor and I have no other codes than that one...... What's a good ecu to go with besides the P30, could a Run a p28 without there being any problems? Could I override the problem by using Hondata?


Modified by fidget15 at 5:59 PM 5/22/2006

 

Is the ECU chipped? JDM P30 or USDM P30?

toss in a chip and disable the sensor with Crome.
the stock P30 maps are built into crome so creating your map is really easy.

 

it's a JDM P30, not chipped bone stock. Crome ???? Will hondata work ? Uberdata ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fidget15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a JDM P30...</TD></TR></TABLE>That's a start. Maybe if you tell us what year someone might know whether it's internal.

 

it's a 1992 to the best of my knowledge, but could be different because the engine wasn't documented very well when it arrived here.......

 

It was internal on my '95 P72, and the '98 Accord. I think the external ones were older, so maybe yours is??? If you can find an ECU pinout you'll know. Either there's a circuit for the BARO sensor, or not.

 

Yeah it's internal.....So how should I go about rectifying the problem Crome ??? I'll check that out I found a link for it somewhere? Is HONDATA an option? Or should I just go with a different ECU?

 

I vaguely remember someone repairing the circuit board inside the ECU case, but I can't find that thread now. Seems to me the sensor was accessible in the case, if you're comfortable doing that kind of elecronic work. If you're lucky it's a simple soldering job. If the sensor itself is bad, you probably can't buy the part.

Junkyard ECU might be cheapest, but maybe this is your excuse to upgrade to Chrome or Hondata or something like that.

 

Cool. Thank you for the help.