OMG Im still over heating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!! :(
The only time it starts to creep and heat up is in the day on the freeway doing 70+ at the same spot on the freeway but its fine with heater on. I live in phoenix and I rather have the a/c on not the heater. The thermostat just replaced 3 months ago. All coolant mix, water pump is good. Not loosing coolant...brand new aluminum radiator. Weird thing is when I park and let it idle it was still half way. But I turn car off for a sec and turned it back on, it was quarter high... maybe sending unit? or thermostat?
Under the hood
•99’ Honda B16a2
•ACT heavy duty six puck clutch
•Prothane Motor mounts inserts
•Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
•Precision Sc61 stage 5 wheel turbocharger assembly
•Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate
•Drag High Flow front mount intercooler
•Greddy Tpye- S Blow Off Valve
•Walbro 255 Lph fuel pump
•Rc 550cc Injectors
•Cometic .078 81mm Head gasket
•Arp headstuds
•AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears
•00 GSR Camshafts
•Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
•Aluminum Radiator
•Tuned on Crome By AFI TurboJesse
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1619748
Under the hood
•99’ Honda B16a2
•ACT heavy duty six puck clutch
•Prothane Motor mounts inserts
•Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
•Precision Sc61 stage 5 wheel turbocharger assembly
•Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate
•Drag High Flow front mount intercooler
•Greddy Tpye- S Blow Off Valve
•Walbro 255 Lph fuel pump
•Rc 550cc Injectors
•Cometic .078 81mm Head gasket
•Arp headstuds
•AEM Tru-Time adjustable cam gears
•00 GSR Camshafts
•Golden Eagle vacuum manifold
•Aluminum Radiator
•Tuned on Crome By AFI TurboJesse
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1619748
Ummm. yeah... I replace all them to.... I thought the new rad would fix it, cause the Honda manual say if it over heats at high speed and not low its the rad, and when I took it out it was fill with calcium build up and most of the holes where covered.
honda doesnt know you put an intercooler blocking air infront of that radiator......so it wont get the same amount of air it should on the highway
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmcivicb16a2sc61 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what about when i turned it off for not even 2secs and back on, it drop 25%? </TD></TR></TABLE>
your going by the gauge on the cluster? that thing wont read past halfway till 235-240 degrees..... it should be 185-210
your going by the gauge on the cluster? that thing wont read past halfway till 235-240 degrees..... it should be 185-210
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synapse Motorsport »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try bleeding the system, make sure all the air is out
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If that does'nt work, fork out the extra money on an aftermarket 3 core radiator like fluidyne, I love mine, no problems with heating in the past 3 years.
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If that does'nt work, fork out the extra money on an aftermarket 3 core radiator like fluidyne, I love mine, no problems with heating in the past 3 years.
ok man here ya go.... factory coolant gauge is junk, it wont move past its normal WARM position until its almost too hot! get a water temp gauge to truely know.
`jack the front end of car up about 10 inches, pull rad cap off, let car run for 25-35 minutes with the heater ON to bleed system completely.
`make sure fan blows INTO the engine bay!
`make sure thermostat is working properly
do that and if no luck, i will continue
`jack the front end of car up about 10 inches, pull rad cap off, let car run for 25-35 minutes with the heater ON to bleed system completely.
`make sure fan blows INTO the engine bay!
`make sure thermostat is working properly
do that and if no luck, i will continue
is that new alum rad a half rad?
i had the same problem because the ******* fan was sucking the air from around the turbo manifold and through the rad again and again..
if u do have a half rad, make a shroud so it sucks from the front and not around the side.
just a thought.
i had the same problem because the ******* fan was sucking the air from around the turbo manifold and through the rad again and again..
if u do have a half rad, make a shroud so it sucks from the front and not around the side.
just a thought.
Yea it’s a new thick aluminum half rad. and yes im going off the stock gauge. I have a/c but I don’t run it cause the car over heats and I’m too busy running the damn heater. Its all coolant and I jack the front end up and ran the car with the cap off and the heater on till fan kicked on and all the bubbles stop. Then drove it, and the when it cooled off, I added more coolant. Today if it heats up again, I’m going to turn the car off and then back on to see if the temp sensor resets.
why dont you check your radiator fan?? maybe its not coming on?? Follow the lower radiator hose to the thermostat houseing disconnect the fan switch and jump the two wires that go to the thermostat temp. switch..... Your fan will be on all the time... You'll get slower warm up time but your car will run way cooler....
the radiator fan is slim pro 2000cfm and its on when i get off the freeway and i park, and the temp gauge is half way, it slowly goes back down a lil.
what size radiator fan? you may need to upgrade the a/c fan as well unless it doesn't come one the same time radiator fan does.
if you have exhaust leaks inside engine bay, that can lead to overheating. check wastegate dumptube (i assume you have one). check exhaust manifold and just anything exhaust related inside the engine bay
make sure water is circulating all around but i doubt its anything other than a) fan not being large enough or not working properly b) exhaust leaks inside engine bay c) radiator isn't sufficient enough for your setup.. you may need a larger radiator, maybe dual core? i'd start with the first 2
if you have exhaust leaks inside engine bay, that can lead to overheating. check wastegate dumptube (i assume you have one). check exhaust manifold and just anything exhaust related inside the engine bay
make sure water is circulating all around but i doubt its anything other than a) fan not being large enough or not working properly b) exhaust leaks inside engine bay c) radiator isn't sufficient enough for your setup.. you may need a larger radiator, maybe dual core? i'd start with the first 2
have you thought about the wiring of the fan?!
I had the same exact problem w/ my car. Fan cooled it PERFECTLY when it was not going 70+, but when I got on highway it was all hell. Turns out I wired the fan incorrectly and since I wanted the fan to be used as a PULLER, it was wired to be used as a PUSHER fan! Check your wiring and make sure the fan is blowing the proper way.
I had the same exact problem w/ my car. Fan cooled it PERFECTLY when it was not going 70+, but when I got on highway it was all hell. Turns out I wired the fan incorrectly and since I wanted the fan to be used as a PULLER, it was wired to be used as a PUSHER fan! Check your wiring and make sure the fan is blowing the proper way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you say "All coolant mix"? As in 100% coolant, 0% water?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That is what I was wondering too.
If it is all coolant, no wonder it is overheating.
That is what I was wondering too.
If it is all coolant, no wonder it is overheating.
I mean all coolant mix, as I bought that 50/50 don’t add water coolant. But you know some people lose coolant and just grab the garden hose and fill her up. The radiator is dual and I have a 12" slim line fan 2000cfm and it’s wired to the same as OEM. It’s pulling or sucking air front to in the engine bay. today when i parked tha gauge was at 50% i turn the car off for not even a sec and turned it back on the the gauge drop to 25%.
faulty sensor?did you overhaul your rad?if now try doing so...maybe there are some mud build up in the rad's tubes...
the fan should push the air towards the engine...
had the similar prob check your thermostat..if its dead prolly you should get a new and diy a coper wire spacer in between the thermostat(between the valve and the catching lil stud)...so that the thermo is 25percent open all the time...il try to produce some pix of my thermostat..so that youll have an idea...
the fan should push the air towards the engine...
had the similar prob check your thermostat..if its dead prolly you should get a new and diy a coper wire spacer in between the thermostat(between the valve and the catching lil stud)...so that the thermo is 25percent open all the time...il try to produce some pix of my thermostat..so that youll have an idea...
I have a similar problem. I have a gutted thermo, brand new alum thick radiator, and my fan is definately blowing the right way. I think the problem is the cheap thin fan that I am using. My car will overheat after highway driving for a while but never really get WAY hot, just like 3/5. What kind of fan do you have?
On the car there is a blue and a black wire; they match exactly colorwise to the blue and black wires on my fan, but I found that they actually need to be opposite for my fan to blow the correct way. Anyone else notice this?
On the car there is a blue and a black wire; they match exactly colorwise to the blue and black wires on my fan, but I found that they actually need to be opposite for my fan to blow the correct way. Anyone else notice this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a similar problem. I have a gutted thermo, brand new alum thick radiator, and my fan is definately blowing the right way. I think the problem is the cheap thin fan that I am using. My car will overheat after highway driving for a while but never really get WAY hot, just like 3/5. What kind of fan do you have?
On the car there is a blue and a black wire; they match exactly colorwise to the blue and black wires on my fan, but I found that they actually need to be opposite for my fan to blow the correct way. Anyone else notice this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, I learned this while driving on highway.
Luckyfully I cought it before I blew up. lol
Most people on H-T use "b18bturbo" 10 and 12" fans. They are rated to blow at a blistering 1400CFMs... much better then my 14" fan that blows about 1200-1400, not to mention the size is bigger
I ordered up 2 `12" fans from b18bturbo already. Heard nothing but good about them
On the car there is a blue and a black wire; they match exactly colorwise to the blue and black wires on my fan, but I found that they actually need to be opposite for my fan to blow the correct way. Anyone else notice this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, I learned this while driving on highway.
Luckyfully I cought it before I blew up. lolMost people on H-T use "b18bturbo" 10 and 12" fans. They are rated to blow at a blistering 1400CFMs... much better then my 14" fan that blows about 1200-1400, not to mention the size is bigger
I ordered up 2 `12" fans from b18bturbo already. Heard nothing but good about them
well theres hot air blowing towards the tranny, i have 12" 2000cfm fan with black and red wires, should i switch them?
If the fan is blowing air into the engine bay it's turning the correct way.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridKOOP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace radiator cap. Cheap fix to try out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridKOOP »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replace radiator cap. Cheap fix to try out.</TD></TR></TABLE>



