I currently have one dead cylinder, cylinder #2, I notice this because on my Hytech custom header #2 runner was not changing, all the other runners changed to a gold/bronze color while #2 stayed silver. I even called Hytech and they said "its not normal, all the runners should change color evenly."

Im running an AEM EMS 1050 with Jenvey ITBs, I currently have a base map for itbs that the tuner gave me that is good enough to start my car and place it on a trailer,but not allowed to drive on it. Is it possible that the map program he gave is the cause...? I'm asking this because Im honestly clueless when it come to tuning or programing.

<U>This is what I done so far in troubleshooting: </U>
When pulling each spark plug out and comparing them side -by-side you can see a noticable difference between #134 versus #2, #2 was alot cleaner compared to #134.
I have another spark, I also used a spark gauge and measured the arch,its compareable to the another cylinders. I have a brand new Dist. cap & rotor. Tried swap out spark plug wires with a known good set as well as spark plugs, nothing.
When pulling each spark plug wire and/or injector injector clip off there is no tone change in #2 only #134.
When suspecting it might be an injector issue I swap #2 & #3, still the results were the same. Suspecting the injector clip/harness is not recieving signal I hooked up a test light & a nod light and found all injector clips to be working.
I've even removed the fuel rail and inspected for any foriegn material that might be clogging the rail, nothing rail was clear.I even sprayed Throttle plate cleaner and then blow compress air through the rail. Inspected all fuel injector ports on the ITB, ports were clear & clean. No sign of foriegn material or debree.
Performed 2 valve adjustmens, still nothing.
Suspecting it might be a burnt valve I performed a leakdown and compression test.
Compression test (w/ the dist. disconnect, fuel pump fuse pulled, throttle fully open) readings #1=225 #2=225 #3=225 #4=227 (8 cranks)
leakdown #1=0 #2=0 #3=0 #4=0% leakage (setting was dialed up to 100%)
When doing the leak down I removed the Rad. cap, Oil cap, Open the throttle plates,and had someone listen in the ehaust.
No loud noise were coming from the ITBs or Exhaust. Rad. did not show signs of a
blown HD.
The motor was completely warmed up, fans cycled twice.
I performed these test snap on equipment.
When holding the vehicle @ 2500 and then pulling either spark plug wire or injector clip, there was still no tone change in #2 only in #134

Im really stressed out because my tuner is flying in on MONDAY MAY 22,06...Please any help,ideas,or opinions would GREATLY be appericated. Thank you for the time

Here's a list of my mods

Vehicle:2001 Integra GSR 2dr
EST. the CR to be around 12.5-12.7

GSR Block 2001
Golden Eagle HD Sleeves w/ O-rings
Golden Eagle HD Headbolts
Golden Eagle/OEM headgasket
Honda Bearings
Arias 84mm Piston cr 11.9
Eagle H-beam Rods
Eagle Lighten Cranks -6lbs from stock (stock stroke)
Arp rod bolts
Toda oil pump gear
Fluidampr (Race Pulley)
Mugen T-stat
Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Oil pan
C&R radiator Full size w/ spal fan
Samco Hoses
Endyn Breather kit (Block only)
Balance & blueprinted

GSR Head 2001
Jenvey/Hayward ITBS 48mm Taper
RC injectors 440cc
Toda Cam shafts C2's
Toda Cam Gears
Toda Timing Belt
Port flow Headwork
Port flow Inter & Outer dual valve springs
Port flow Ti-retainers
Port flow bronze valve guides
Rev stainless steel valves (flat face)
Hytech Custom header 2.5" collector
Mugen Twin loop Muffler
Smsp custom cat. 2.5" in & outlet
Kteller Custom stainless steal piping 2.5"
Spoon Sports plug wires
AEBS cam seal
SX engineering FTP
Walbro 255HP intake fuel pump
Marshall Fuel gauge
Earls Inline fuel filter
Custom Breather tank (Valve cover)
AEM EMS 30-1050
Uego Controller 30-4100



Modified by spriggan at 10:37 AM 5/20/2006

 

bump, lots of nice parts; but you pretty much covered anything I can think of.

 

Although the distributor is new (newer), I would swap it out for a known functional one. The lack of spark on #2 when the plug is pulled is my only guess??

 

it sounds like a bad injector or there is something wrong with the base map your tuner made causing that injector not to fire.

i would not run the engine anymore and call your tuner up and ask him to check over the base map he made for you.......

to confirm that it may be a tuning issue swap the bad injector with one that is good.....example......put the #2 injector into #1 and vice versa and fire the engine up and see if you get the same problem. if the problem changes cylinders then you have a injector problem. if the problem stays to that cylinder then its probably a tuning or wiring issue.

hope that kinda helps.

 

0% leak down on all cylinders... Think ya' did something wrong there buddy.

That's pretty much, 99.999998% impossible. I would try and redo it, just to be sure.