I searched, but I couldnt find anything on an EG in paticular.

Who here has an EG with a h22a swap? I am buying a 92-95 hatch, and I'm wanting the most power and tq possible. I realize this is not the most practical, but honestly is the ride THAT bad for daily driving? What gives? I want a street killer, not a track queen. The track isn't too important to me, although it wouldn't hurt to still be able to have a good suspension. I'm wanting to put down 350hp+ in the end so I can show these Oklahoma rednecks whats up. What needs to be done besides get some Hasport motor mounts? Give me the low down dirty nitty gritty fellas...

I'm fairly experienced with the motors and the build up of them and etc. It's the actual part of getting the engine in the car, and the acceptability of a nicely sized turbo that really makes me wonder.

Thanks guys.




[Modified by p0oty, 4:44 PM 4/12/2002]


[Modified by p0oty, 5:32 PM 4/12/2002]

 

well, youll never catch me on the twisties. you just want to go fast right? how about, a 2nd gen b16 turbocharged? you wont have a heavy motor, understeer, or clearance issues. yet, youll have good power at the wheels...

 

Thanks Rosco. Unfortunately your post didn't answer a single thing. lol



[Modified by p0oty, 6:09 PM 4/12/2002]

 

I will not even echo the same things about understeer, weight, etc. that have been said before. I'll leave that alone - others here will tell you what they know about that.

I'll tell you what I know about for SURE.

If you want a "street killer" and not a "track queen" then you really might want to consider a few things:

Traction or lack thereof. I have a friend with a tubocharged B20 non-VTEC that puts down 250whp and he gets NO traction at all in 1st or 2nd gear. He finally hooks up around mid 3rd.

How will that be on the street? You would need slicks to put power over 220whp or so, so what's the point if you don't want a "track queen?"

H22As don't hook up so well either, so imagine one with 300+hp. you will need to turbo it just to get that kind of power, so why waste money like that if you can boost an LS motor for much cheaper?

I hope some owbers of H22A EGs will show up and give you facts for sure.

 

ok i have a question about a boosted LS then. If you take a normal LS, run a turbo to it, and put a b16 or GSR tranny to it, What kind of power and cost are you looking at? I have never really considered NOT having vtec! I just love it so much.

 

H22 + EG/DC = Bad idea

 

sohfast sells ls w/ gsr tranny check them out http://www.sohfast.com

 

I heard many times that the LS tranny is better for turbo .

 

Boosted LS = Hell yeah..............

 

why would that be?

 

Keep the LS tranny for boost. You'll need the extra gear to hit full boost

I'd still try to get a good GS-R swap unless you can afford the LS swap and all the turbo **** too, because until you boost the B18B it will not be as wuick as you might want.

H22A guys? Where are you all? Help this guy out!

If there are H22A-EG owners here, then please speak up and disspell any misconceptions that may be spoken by us non-H22A owners. If the cars handles great and you hook up great, then please speak up.

I feel very strongly about my particular swap because I KNOW it runs awesome and hooks up great. Since my set-up isn't part of this discussion then i won't go into it, but if I had an H22A and it was just great then Id cut in here and tell it like it is.

Anyone?

 

Man, i wish i could afford a ITR swap. I just know that for me it would cost like $6000.....Im thinkin bout a GSR, but wanted to raise the question about the LS/turbo possibilities. but if that is more than a GSR, forget it. I'll stay all motor.

 

Yeah pooty, I'll echo what b18c5 said. If you really want a a street "beast" a built b18c5, lsvtec, or b20vtec is really the way to go for dragging or street racing.

 

Well let me clarify a little. The car would be primarily drag. The track or autoX is not what I REALLY want it for. I don't want to get crazy insane(whatever that means lol). I don't want to string out a motor to all ends of the earth. I want something strong that can handle the load respectfully. As far as say.....a b18c with JE pistons, eagle rods, and a good head job, ls tranny, a tial or hks wastegate, hks or garrett turbo, standalone fuel system....and the small stuff to go with it.....i mean if i take something like that and ride around on low boost alll day ...then if someone wants to race....hit the button and high boost when i want........is that a decently feasable setup if maintained on a moderate level.....on a daily driven car???

woo wee lol




[Modified by p0oty, 9:51 PM 4/12/2002]

 

Sure it's pheasable, but turn the boost up means you're turning the traction DOWN on the street too.

 

Been busy with school lately so I haven't watching the boards as much. Anyways, I've been both turbo B20 and H22 in the same car. If your suspension is tuned right (stiff spring, good struts, sway bars, good brakes), then the car hanldles great with a H22 motor. No understeer, but then I have a LSD tranny... but my friend's EK coupe with H22 also drives great and handles good. Sure traction is another story... I drive on Nitto drag radials for my street tires and they help in hooking up, but with my huge Hotshot header, they just roast through 2nd gear. When I let the air out of them to drive around town, turning is a bit harder but they grab from stoplight to stoplight very good (helps with a stiff rearend). But you have to realize with my turbo B20 (or any B-series motor with lots of power to it), you're going to get madd wheel spin also - I had worse traction problems with my turbo B20 than I do with my H22. Actually, my H22 hooks up pretty well... I can pull 1.7 60' times on the track with slicks and run 12s all day long with just bolt-ons.

I'm not going to say not to get a H22 or that you should get a H22 motor.... get whatever the hell you want to. I've been there with both "extreme" setups in an EG hatch (turbo B20 and H22). I also have a LS/VTEC CRX and that's fun in it's own way. Get whatever you feel will make you happy. Even with a H22 motor, you can make it handle like any other car, and the torque is unbelievable coming out of turns. And for those wondering about a B18C hatch vs. a H22 hatch, the H22 hatch will leave a B18C hatch anyday.... my friend in his H22 coupe can easily walk away from B18C hatches.... crazy.

 

For your viewing pleasure...



Daily driven with 12 lbs of boost on a JDM B20 motor. Best time = 11.6 on slicks




Daily driven JDM H22A SiR motor. Best time = 12.6 on slicks (adding a 100 shot of NOS to drop well into the 11s )

This is my "race" car so I don't care how drivable it is, but I still drive it daily and it's "smog legal" and registered.




[Modified by Newman, 11:10 PM 4/12/2002]

 

Excellent post by Newman.



My only problem with ETs on slicks is that they are misleading on the STREET. This guy was talking street where we don't have the luxury of all-out slicks.

How do you think that 12.6 on slicks would translate with street tires Newman? 1.7 60-footers are better than the 60-footers you'd see with an H22A or Turbo'd B-series on street tires, right?

I'm not **** talking at ALL - I'm just curious about what kinds of times and 60-foot times people see with their H22A Civics, that's all.

I've run a 13.9@100.97mph with a shitty-*** 2.4 60-foot on street tires and full interior in my old 1992 Si weighing in at 2289lbs. Heavy for a hatch, I know. This was also my first time at the strip with this et-up and I did nothing like mess with tire psi or anything - ran it just how it runs on the street.

This was with a B18C5 and only intake, exhaust, and P28 re-chipped by kenji.

Please don't jump on and say "You paid $6,000 for your swap though..." because I did not. I bought a whole totalled ITR for $4,000, kept the swap, and sold the rest of the car for a profit, so really I didn't pay **** for it.

Type R swaps can be had for $4,800 from http://www.hondamotorsonline.com and I would recommend them because bone ******* stock they lay down 165-175whp.

I got 175whp out of mine, and I will never break the motor apart until I HAVE to because you simply cannot beat Honda O.E build quality.

With better 60-footers, like say, 2.1's like I've seen others do on street tires with R swaps, mid 13's should be easier.

Strip times do not tell the whole story here though. On the STREET my car hooks up and jumps out on just about any other Honda you can think of. The only cars that give me problems are AWD cars

I'm not turning this into a pissing contest, nor an H22A-bashing contest either. I canb appreciate the H22A Civics and I think it's cool that people do them.

Keep in mind that there are fuckloads of all-motor parts for the B-Series stuff too, and that it is not hard at all to get 200whp out of a B-Series motor. H22A all-motor set-ups would be more costly because you'd have fewer more expensive choices for parts, right?

This is the case for most things H22A anyways. Parts are harder to find. What if you ever need an ECU replacement or your swap didn't come with one? You ever tried finding a 1994-1995 OBD1 Prelude ECU? ******* impossible. What about trannies? Not easy to come by either, and the O.E LSD-equipped trannies are VERY rare.

Just some things to throw out there.


[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 11:42 PM 4/12/2002]

 

My buddy:

EG (cx)
h22
i/e/h
80 shot
12.60!

Pretty impressive. Rips stangs and z28`s all day long.

Ryan

 

[QUOTE]For your viewing pleasure...



Daily driven with 12 lbs of boost on a JDM B20 motor. Best time = 11.6 on slicks




Daily driven JDM H22A SiR motor. Best time = 12.6 on slicks (adding a 100 shot of NOS to drop well into the 11s )

This is my "race" car so I don't care how drivable it is, but I still drive it daily and it's "smog legal" and registered.

Newman, is your b20 built and if it is what all did you do to it what turbo are you using?

 

This is the case for most things H22A anyways. Parts are harder to find. What if you ever need an ECU replacement or your swap didn't come with one? You ever tried finding a 1994-1995 OBD1 Prelude ECU? ******* impossible. What about trannies? Not easy to come by either, and the O.E LSD-equipped trannies are VERY rare.

Hehe by the way im selling one if anyone needs one. I have a 94 obd 1 prelude ecu that I am trying to get rid of since I have a real SPOON one.

As far as an H22 in a civic, good choice . There are many advantages to choosing a H22 than a B-series and vice versa. Parts will be harder to find but what else do you need besides a JUN head package and build the bottom end with corwer connecting rods and endyn pistons? A benefit of the H22 from 92-96 is the year that the block itself is close-decked. So it reinforces the block and has great strength already. You will need to buy a FAL fan and upgrade to a bigger radiator like a integra. You will also need to do some slight modifications to the civic wiring harness. Add a couple for the 4 wire 02 sensor and wire vtec if its not a vx or si. You will also need to add a EGR valve wired up and a knock sensor wired up. Like I mentioned before you have 2 choices in choosing axles. Keep the prelude intermediate shaft and use prelude inner joints combined with integra outer joints. This is the strongest route. The other choice is to buy a 90-93 Accord intermediate shaft and use integra axles. You wil also need to have the assembly from a prelude shifter. Since the prelude uses cables and not shift linkage. You will have to cut a little to make the shifter work but its not too bad. You will also not be able to use your a/c or p/s. Although in one case my friend has a/c by cutting into the firewall. But its possible to have a/c. Good luck and have patience with this swap and you will truly be satisfied with a H-series motor in a civic. H22+civic=hella fun.

 

I would want the H22a...

for the money and everything, build up a B20Z with a Turbo and intercooler and upgrade cams, get some good tunning you would have one sweet daily driver

 

sorry to drag this back up, but i was wondering how exactly your friend kept his a/c...why did he have to cut into the firewall??? i thought the biggest problem was mounting the compressor....how did he do that?