well my valves need adjustment on my b16 and i am debating whether on taking it to a shop or doing it myself. the problem is i've never done a valve adjusting job before. don't get me wrong i'm pretty handy w/tools(swapped the motor out, did my timing belt, water pump, etc). what i'm really trying to get at is how long can i avoid it and what are the consequences?

 

If you can do a timing belt, you can do a valve lash adjustment.

 

well, new things kind of worry me thats all. just trying to save $75. thanks for the confidence!

 

If you can find it, or make it, get the valve adjustment tool. It makes the process MUCH easier. If your not sure what i'm talking about, its a combination tool that combines a 10mm socket/wrench and a flathead screwdriver, so you can hold the adjustment screw in place while tightening the locknut. Follow all adjustments to spec, and definatly do it when your motor has been off for a minimum of 3 hours. Overnight if possible.

 

too tight u might over heat ur car. to loose u hear too much ticking haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you can find it, or make it, get the valve adjustment tool. It makes the process MUCH easier. If your not sure what i'm talking about, its a combination tool that combines a 10mm socket/wrench and a flathead screwdriver, so you can hold the adjustment screw in place while tightening the locknut. Follow all adjustments to spec, and definatly do it when your motor has been off for a minimum of 3 hours. Overnight if possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought about making one like the one on c-speedracing.com. you know heating an open ended wrench and then bending it. i know of the tool you are talking about it's called a jam nut valve adjuster, and yes they are hard to find.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90DAkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too tight u might over heat ur car. to loose u hear too much ticking haha</TD></TR></TABLE>

but thats it, my valves won't fall through, would they?

 

Do it yourself man. It's not very hard. Takes a few times to get it right on the money and get the 'feel' of the feeler gauge and what the tightness should be for the spec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but thats it, my valves won't fall through, would they?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. You're not adjusting the valve itself, you're adjusting part of the rocker arm. You'll see how it works once you pop off the valve cover.

http://importnut.net/valveadjust.htm

Also, one thing to note: When you're replacing the valve cover, remember to only torque it down to 7 lb-ft. People frequently overtighten valve cover nuts/bolts and snap them.

 

It's not going to hurt anything if you put it off, your car will just sound like a sewing machine but if you can do a swap and change a timing belt, you can adjust the valve lash! It's simple, get you a Chilton's or Haynes manual and go at it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No. You're not adjusting the valve itself, you're adjusting part of the rocker arm. You'll see how it works once you pop off the valve cover.

http://importnut.net/valveadjust.htm

Also, one thing to note: When you're replacing the valve cover, remember to only torque it down to 7 lb-ft. People frequently overtighten valve cover nuts/bolts and snap them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can i suggest that website to anyone doing anything to their car? Its got all i need to know.....awesome.

 

make sure you turn the #1 cyl to TDC, then #3, #4, #2. that order is important. i know someone who did 1, 4, 3, 2 and 3 days later dropped a valve.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

it's for a B series, but the procedure is identical. the differences should be obvious. also .007 IN and .009 EX are the magic numbers for B and D series cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you turn the #1 cyl to TDC, then #3, #4, #2. that order is important. i know someone who did 1, 4, 3, 2 and 3 days later dropped a valve.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

it's for a B series, but the procedure is identical. the differences should be obvious. also .007 IN and .009 EX are the magic numbers for B and D series cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you see, thats what i am afraid of, is dropping a valve. how can they drop if their attached to the retainer?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you see, thats what i am afraid of, is dropping a valve. how can they drop if their attached to the retainer?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've done it 5 or 6 times and everything is fine. as long as you get the order right you're cool. he also had all kinds of BS in there like spoon pistons and no tuning so it was going to blow eventually.

it's not that big of a deal, if you can do a timing belt this is like a step up from an oil change.

 

i was really looking into this as well. i hate the sound of my valves, and i am sure i could get a few cases of beer out of doing it for others. i have done 8 swaps, auto to manual, timing belts, head gaskets, turbo kits, pretty much everything under the hood i have messed with, i was just always afraid to mess with the valves. By reading this thread, i feel pretty comfident though.

 

too tight and you could burn a valve. Avoiding adjusting will cause valve noise and extra wear on cams/rockers...

 

I actually did my valve lash yesterday. I was so scarred I'd expletive something up. I had to do it the old 10mm and screwdriver and testing to 100times method.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i thought about making one like the one on c-speedracing.com. you know heating an open ended wrench and then bending it. i know of the tool you are talking about it's called a jam nut valve adjuster, and yes they are hard to find.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bought one on amazon.com for $18 shipped. Only thing is they made it really crappy so its like 9mm. I gotta file it down some how...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Internet Tough Guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make sure you turn the #1 cyl to TDC, then #3, #4, #2. that order is important. i know someone who did 1, 4, 3, 2 and 3 days later dropped a valve.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

it's for a B series, but the procedure is identical. the differences should be obvious. also .007 IN and .009 EX are the magic numbers for B and D series cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure the numbers are Intake: .006-.007 and exhaust: .007-.008

 

nope .007 and .009 are the numbers you want to use for a D or B vtec cam.

 

it wont drop

 

but even in that c-speed link it says Intake: .006-.007 and exhaust: .007-.008

 

they are wrong, i am right

it says 7 and 9 under the hood and rocket (guy on here who is a very knowledgeable honda engine builder) says that 7 and 9 are the numbers.

i doubt 6 or 8 makes that much of a difference though, try it and see if you notice anything.

 

I did mine yesterday and they were close to .009 on ex side. It was ticking like a damn cucu clock . I didn't feel much of a difference or anything but it was just annoyingly ticking