Its a B18c1 in a 1989 Civic Si (40 lbs lighter than 90-91 Si:*****:

JDM B16 (P30) or JDM ITR Pistons (Friction Coated) Sandblasted. Im gonna have to send the block and pistons in to the machine shop to get fully re-surfaced, sandblasted and to get them to make the bore of the piston hole (where the connecting rod connects to) a bit bigger in diameter so the pistons will mount on the connecting rod. Now I wont need to bore block or change pistons rings cause most USDM and JDM Piston rings are the same size. Im gonna have the block inspected thoroughly for cracks, chips, clearances, balanced (maybe) etc. And fully cleaned. Brand new ARP Rod Bolts, Main caps, all new bearings (main, rod), Brand new GSR oil pump, water pump all new gaskets.
ITR Flywheel (resurfaced for brand new clutch), probably do the rear main seal, resurface the deck and whatever else neets to be done to the block

As for the head...For now, lol, Im gonna try to get me some ITR Valvetrain and make sure I send that head into a real good shop for P&P and a super good cleaning inside and out. AEM Cam Gears, ARP Head bolts, dont know what timing belt to get (cause I dont want that bitch to snap), ITR or stock Intake Manifold and TB (62mm for ITR)

After this is all said and done TUNE TUNE TUNE!!! and ya i know its gonna cost around $4000 but expletive it. In a EF hatch its all worth it and hopefully beat the "BIG" guy with the back DA that races supercharged mustangs AND KEEPS UP!!!

As for the Trannie I got a crazy deal on a B17 Cable Trannie (92-93 GSR) that I might grab but do u guys think I should change the pilot bearing before I put it in and why?

Please any other suggestions that u guys (and Greek) have dont be afraid cause I want the best possible N/A (no turbo) setup possible. If u recommend me doing something else just put it down

U guys think i would need Traction bars? and also i heard its better to stay with OBD1 cause its better for tuning but I wouldnt mind Getting 96+ gsr parts cause they are newer so what do u guys think