I have been going back and forth betwee the two motors for about a month now. The K20r will cost me about 9k and the ITR will cost me about 4.5K I would like to get 200-220 whp out of the motor and have the car run high 11's. I am not building it for the drag strip just comparing it for the power that I want. The car will be used for autocross and road race. I will be staying N/A. What do you all think?

 

do you have any idea what it takes to fit that k20 into the crx engine bay? just go with the b18 block.
trust me.

 

Yep I know what it takes. It will be a winter project. We have done a ton of b series just thinking about something different.

 

where are you going to be road racing it? honda challenge?

 

go with the b18c it will be good enough for your road racing needs and more affordable

 

Just local. It will mainly be an autocross car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with the b18c it will be good enough for your road racing needs and more affordable</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrtrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just local. It will mainly be an autocross car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats wrong with the stock motor then?

 

K20R Motor. People someone i know with a Type S motor hit 11.7 With an R im sure you'd be deeper into the 11s than that.


Putting in a k20R motor aient that hard anyways. Dont knock it until u try it.

 

be better off with the k20r if you are trying to make 220whp and go high 11s reliably. but if you have a tight budget, k series is not the way to go...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THCk20eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be better off with the k20r if you are trying to make 220whp and go high 11s reliably. but if you have a tight budget, k series is not the way to go... </TD></TR></TABLE> This guy knows what he is talking about

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BolivianFuego &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Putting in a k20R motor aient that hard anyways. Dont knock it until u try it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

not that hard huh? have you tried it yourself?

 

K SWAP HARD...???

not hard at ALL.

K-series ALL DAY!!

 

kseries if u have time and money
bseries if your on a budget


kseries=11's allday
bseries=12's allday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THCk20eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">be better off with the k20r if you are trying to make 220whp and go high 11s reliably. but if you have a tight budget, k series is not the way to go... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this completely. If you want a nice quick little swap a B is fine. But if you are building a B to be competitive Just go K and make as much power with a built B with a K bolt ons which will all come out to about the same price.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

not that hard huh? have you tried it yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, got a K series EG running 12.70@111 on Real street tires AVS ES 100s Sucka's!

Only thing i can think of that would suck on a CRX swap, would be the shifter box but i know karcepts kits can be mildly modifed so they can work on CRX's so that shouldnt even be a big deal.


**** wiring in a K is easy as ****! Solder 5 Wires and Connect 2 plugs to the Shock tower Plugs and your done!

 

I would love to own a K powered EG/EF. Either one.

"IF" I had the money to do it over again I would seriously consider the K20a.

A tight 6 speed with lsd making 200+ whp with bolt ons.


I personally like the B in the EF, maybe even boost it. I'd prefer a K in an EG or a DC and keep it all motor.

 

if you got the dough go with the k....

 

it's not even a question, K series all the way dude


Dave

 

k20 is the future

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I personally like the B in the EF, maybe even boost it. I'd prefer a K in an EG or a DC and keep it all motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
same here, just because you don't have to do any cutting and banging to fit a k series into a dc2/eg like u do in a crx.

 

go with the ITR... i'm so sick of the K-Series hype (damn nOOBs!!)

 

This site is so drag racing obsessed its ridiculous sometimes.
He stated in his first post:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The car will be used for autocross and road race.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then everyone followed with posts about 12s and 11s.
WHO CARES.

To the Original Poster, you should start with a rulebook and figure out what class you want to be in in Autox. Do you want to be competitive? Just have fun? That plays a huge part. As far as I know, you cant put a K20 into an EF chassis civic with a stock hood, all this stuff plays a factor.

A friend of mine, screen name Rodney on HT, is a national level SCCA autox'er with a EG hatch with an ITR motor. He is the fastest SM (Street Mod) Civic in the entire country. You should clarify your goals and experience before anyone can make a real recommendation.

Turning the steering wheel and driver skillZ &gt; Horsepower

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This site is so drag racing obsessed its ridiculous sometimes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Heh, it's like they don't even see certain key words...

There are a lot of considerations for your swap if it really is primarily an autox car.

1) Class. Assuming the CRX has a full interior, a swap puts you in SM2. If it's gutted, you go to D-Mod. SM2 makes allowances for after market hoods and fenders, as well as "making room" for your swap in the engine bay, so clearance isn't a problem. But regarding SM2, making a CRX competitive will be quite an uphill battle. The competition is brutal.

2)Power. If the fastest SM FWD in the country 3 years running has done it with a stock bottom end b18c5, cams and bolt ons, that should say something about priorities in this area. Shoot for 200 whp. With your front wheels doing all the work, it'll be tough enough to make good use of that much power until you have a few grand worth of race rubber, wheels, and suspension under the car (and great driving skills).

3) Reliability. I don't own a K, but I've heard plenty of complaining from the road racers about what happens when you ride the rev limiter for awhile. For an autox car, expect to be familiar with the rev limit. If you can afford the risk, then cool...

Another interesting point is weight balance. I've heard a K swap moves it further forward. Some people immediately dismiss this as bad for a rr/autox FWD, but not necessarily. For a FWD autox car, if power is "unlimited" then the big issue is actually putting down the power out of a turn. Assuming the suspension is tuned correctly, a slight weight shift forward might help pick up a tad bit of acceleration. Autox really is a different sport from road racing, and I think a purposeful approach to building a FWD autox car will result in some seriously cool configurations for FWD's that we haven't seen before. Like what would you get if a 9 second drag car married one of the Speed WC hondas.

It's your car, but my opinion is that a stock ITR motor will give all the power you need, and great reliability under the harsh conditions of autox/road racing. Plus it'll save you a ton of money over the K... to be better spent on suspension, wheels, and Hoo$ier$.

 

k20 hand down. a few bolt on. 250whp/200 pound of trq. what else can u ask for?

 

here are a few points...
1 the K swap weighs less than the B
2 the engine is on the passenger side of the car and should give you better balance
3 you can get a 6 speed with the K, anyone who drives a B16 tranny on the highway knows why I am saying this
4 having the header at the back of the engine compartment seems to make it easier to keep the temperature down in the engine bay
5 you can hit your 200hp mark with out opening up the engine on a K
6 you dont need the K20-r the type-S will do just fine too for around $6-7000 installed and tuned