well first you have two screws you have to get out. normally they break or strip out...and then...well dont you have to press the rotors out?

 

i use a impact screwdriver and dont have problems.

 

word, what he said

pop em off with the impact driver and move the caliper out of the way. they should come right off without a press

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by john666 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use a impact screwdriver and dont have problems.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

spray pb blaster on the screws let it sit for a while. then i used what he used. bought it at habor freight for 8 bucks. works great!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lv6l &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

spray pb blaster on the screws let it sit for a while. then i used what he used. bought it at habor freight for 8 bucks. works great! </TD></TR></TABLE>

got a link you could hook me up with?

 

how do those drivers work? Is it just a 16V electric screwdriver?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ianae86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do those drivers work? Is it just a 16V electric screwdriver?</TD></TR></TABLE>
MAN powered.. lol
you put in on the screw. twist it either clock wise or counter clock wise and hit it with a hammer.. it turns a lil bit and will either tighten or loosen a screw

 

Oh gotcha. I feel like an idiot now, haha. Thx

 

i believe only some of the accords have to be pressed off

 

PB Blaster:
http://www.pbblaster.com/store..._ID=1

Impact Driver:
http://images.amazon.com/image..._.jpg
The lower left in this picture shows how it's used. The pic in the 2nd post is a much better one.

For the Front, If you strip the heads of your Disc Retaining Screws, you will either have to drill them out or remove the Rotor while it is still attached to the Hub. I am unaware of any altrenatives. If this is the case, then you will have to press the Hub from the Bearing, requiring a new Rotor & Hub (since they are inseparable), and a new Bearing (one of the Inner Races typically "stick" to the Hub when separated from the Bearing). The Front Hub, Bearing, and Knuckle are all pressed together, and special drivers are required to do this...

I went to 3 major Hardware Stores before I found an Impact Driver at this little Mom&Pop Shop near my house... Most tool doods at the big stores were clueless about anything other than the "powered" Impact Tools...

Front Hub/Bearing work is a MFPITA. GL getting those screws out!!
JasonGhostz

 

Naw, once you get the two screws out you should be able to bang the rotor off with a rubber mallet. You should use an Impact Driver to get those screws out so you don't strip 'em out!!!!!!

If you don't know what an Impact Drive is, it's just a phillips headed screw driver that has channels in it so that when you hit the handle with a hammer, it breaks the screw loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P
I went to 3 major Hardware Stores before I found an Impact Driver at this little Mom&Pop Shop near my house... Most tool doods at the big stores were clueless about anything other than the "powered" Impact Tools...JasonGhostz</TD></TR></TABLE>

my local advance auto parts and autozone both had one

 

if u dont want to buy an impact driver, go grab a punch and a hammer.

On the left side of the screw, put the puch right inbetween where the head of the phillips screw driver goes. Aim it directly into the screw give it a good back to make a good indentation. Then angle the punch downwards and hit it again. should knock it loose.

 

if they are in there really tight you may to put heat on it. I used a propane torch on mine and it made it a lot easier getting them out with the impact driver. I will say those drivers work like a charm

 

i drilled them and the top popped out. Just hit the back of the disk with a hammer ONLY if you dont plan on using the rotors again. Use a mallet if u just wanna take them off or somethin

 

ok i got my flame suit on, but anybody besides me just left those screws out of the rotor when they put them back on? reason behind me not putting them back on is that in all logic, once you put your wheels on the car, and tighten the nuts down it'll keep your rotor in place and it could not possibly budge......and the next time you have to change your rotors, you won't worry about gettin the screws out anymore. i got my extinguisher ready......

 

i look at it like this, honda put them there for a reason

 

Unfortunately for me, having an Impact Driver is not a guarantee that the stupid thing will come out... Check this:
http://img160.imageshack.us/im...q.jpg

That's actually from the Rear, but it's the same BS principle... The yellow arrow points out that STRONG IMPACT DRIVER TIPS ARE CRUCIAL!! The blue arrow points out that STRONG DRILL BITS ARE CRUCIAL!! You can see the little dimple the bit made... right before it snapped.

I don't think there's that much play between the Lug Studs and the Lug Stud Holes in the Rotor, but the Retaining Screws help make sure that the Rotor is properly Centered and Seated on the mating surface of the Hub. I say use 'em if you got 'em, buy 'em if you don't... They're cheap enough (about $.40 each For 92-00 Civic: 93600-060140H (6x14)).

(to R-a-R)
1 - Make sure your Impact Driver is set to the correct direction. Sometimes the Driver can reverse itself in between strikes
2 - Even with an Impact Driver, the Retaining Screws can still strip. Make sure you're using the best fitting Bit for the job.
3 - Prepwork will save you a lot of time. Even for time-critical situations, you can spray some PB, WD-40, Heat, and/or drip some 3-in-1 oil onto the screw heads. Don't forget to degrease your Brake parts with Brake Cleaner after doing so.

JasonGhostz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i look at it like this, honda put them there for a reason </TD></TR></TABLE>

just like my d-series!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i look at it like this, honda put them there for a reason </TD></TR></TABLE>

And the reason was so the rotor didn't fall off the car on the assembly line. So no, you don't need them...now.

 

i think using a slidehammer works the best on accords with pressed in rotors.

 

^ yes.

I broke my damn phillips tip on my impact screwdriver last time I was doing rotors.

Drills own!

 

if you live in a high corrosion area where they sprinkle salt on the roads way into june (just kidding) the rotor will most likely build up corrosion and fuse with the hub....i use a big ******* hammer to knock it loose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i drilled them and the top popped out. Just hit the back of the disk with a hammer ONLY if you dont plan on using the rotors again. Use a mallet if u just wanna take them off or somethin</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo. I drilled them out. Hell I still used the rotor again.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i look at it like this, honda put them there for a reason </TD></TR></TABLE>

Assembly line. Not all cars even that those.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice a roni &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">..and then...well dont you have to press the rotors out? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to take your caliper bracket off. Once that is off.....kick the rotor.

 

Well ummm... I used a regular dollar store screw driver...took a minute.