4 wire oxygen sensor wiring
Trying to install my 4-wire o2, and I can't find a good guide that gives the right pins to route everything to. My sensor is the Bosch 4-wire with 1 black, 1 grey and 2 whites. The paper in it says black is the signal, whites are the heater and grey is ground.
Here's what I have done:
Sensor harness
Black Old oxygen sensor wire
White1 A6 (OBD1 harness)
White2 Ground on T-stat housing
Grey Ground on T-stat housing
still throwing a code 41.
Here's what I have done:
Sensor harness
Black Old oxygen sensor wire
White1 A6 (OBD1 harness)
White2 Ground on T-stat housing
Grey Ground on T-stat housing
still throwing a code 41.
I got it all right the other night. Thanks again for helping me out with wiring Ryan, it's really appreciated.
I made my own wiring harness (OBD0-OBD1, Y8 OBD2 dizzy to OBD0 harness wired for OBD1, and now the O2 sensor), Ryan helped me get straightened out with my bad dizzy wiring. Though I did all my stuff myself, he still helped me out. I wouldn't recommend it to everyone, it's a lot of careful soldering if you want it done right, if I were doing it again I would seriously consider just buying a harness (but I'm a poor student!). When you do this stuff yourself and spend hours and hours, and still have problems, you really appreciate the products Rywire puts out. Also the fact that he helped me out even though I'm not a customer says a lot... On another note I called a certain well known dizzy company to see if there was a difference between the Y8 and Y7 dizzy, and they basically told me to go read Honda Tech.
Cliffs: Rywire rocks
I made my own wiring harness (OBD0-OBD1, Y8 OBD2 dizzy to OBD0 harness wired for OBD1, and now the O2 sensor), Ryan helped me get straightened out with my bad dizzy wiring. Though I did all my stuff myself, he still helped me out. I wouldn't recommend it to everyone, it's a lot of careful soldering if you want it done right, if I were doing it again I would seriously consider just buying a harness (but I'm a poor student!). When you do this stuff yourself and spend hours and hours, and still have problems, you really appreciate the products Rywire puts out. Also the fact that he helped me out even though I'm not a customer says a lot... On another note I called a certain well known dizzy company to see if there was a difference between the Y8 and Y7 dizzy, and they basically told me to go read Honda Tech.
Cliffs: Rywire rocks
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nobody help tom with any more wiring until next week. we can't have him blowing up his silly new motor before the pca autox.
that thing sounded bad ***, btw.
that thing sounded bad ***, btw.
thanks guys. I wish I could have more time to answer questions here these days... Ive been very busy wiring. I could have never thought there was this many people in the world doing engine swaps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nobody help tom with any more wiring until next week. we can't have him blowing up his silly new motor before the pca autox.
that thing sounded bad ***, btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man I have to get the ******* thing running right before that (or I'll just drive yours)! And I have to drive to Toronto this week, luckily it got pushed back. I've been driving stefano's HF around, and yeah it's nice to drive a CRX, but damn it's slow!
And yeah it did sound pretty bad ***. I am getting sick of having loud cars/bikes. That intake is absurdly loud, it wasn't nearly as bad on the EM1. Someone suggested heat wrapping it to stop it from resonating. I drove it once and even though it was rich as hell it was pulling pretty damn hard, I would put money on it against a B16 CRX (though, I've only been in one).
I can't wait to get this thing on the road, it's going to be a lot of fun. I finally got my cam gear today... we will see if I can set the timing.
that thing sounded bad ***, btw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man I have to get the ******* thing running right before that (or I'll just drive yours)! And I have to drive to Toronto this week, luckily it got pushed back. I've been driving stefano's HF around, and yeah it's nice to drive a CRX, but damn it's slow!
And yeah it did sound pretty bad ***. I am getting sick of having loud cars/bikes. That intake is absurdly loud, it wasn't nearly as bad on the EM1. Someone suggested heat wrapping it to stop it from resonating. I drove it once and even though it was rich as hell it was pulling pretty damn hard, I would put money on it against a B16 CRX (though, I've only been in one).
I can't wait to get this thing on the road, it's going to be a lot of fun. I finally got my cam gear today... we will see if I can set the timing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thathrillakilla »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would you have to do to wire a four wire o2 sensor in an obdo wire harness??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry dude got a little carried away thinking about my engine... running...
Anyway if you mean you are still running OBD0 then just don't do it. If you're running OBD1 like I am, you don't NEED a 4wire unless your header isn't stock. If it's in the stock D location it will get enough heat from the motor, but if you have something else where the sensor is near the cat more, you will need it.
So here's what you do:
Get the Bosch 4 wire universal for like any civic (should be about $75). It will come with a paper in the box that tells you what all the wires are... don't read it on Honda Tech, read it off the paper. You will have colour A that is the ground, colour B that goes to the old sensor (signal) wire, and two colour Cs that go to pin A6 and the other to +12V, tap into a yellow black wire...
what the expletive man, I just realized I'm writing you a summary of the post above. I'm gonna go play with my cam gear...
Sorry dude got a little carried away thinking about my engine... running...
Anyway if you mean you are still running OBD0 then just don't do it. If you're running OBD1 like I am, you don't NEED a 4wire unless your header isn't stock. If it's in the stock D location it will get enough heat from the motor, but if you have something else where the sensor is near the cat more, you will need it.
So here's what you do:
Get the Bosch 4 wire universal for like any civic (should be about $75). It will come with a paper in the box that tells you what all the wires are... don't read it on Honda Tech, read it off the paper. You will have colour A that is the ground, colour B that goes to the old sensor (signal) wire, and two colour Cs that go to pin A6 and the other to +12V, tap into a yellow black wire...
what the expletive man, I just realized I'm writing you a summary of the post above. I'm gonna go play with my cam gear...
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MugenHonda
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