I need some help in rebuilding my 1996 honda prelude. if anyone could give me a reference to a shop in the midwest or any tips on what i need to do then please post a comment.

Currently: i need to change my timing belt becasue im running up on 90,ooo miles. and i might have to change my clutch, and probably check my tranny for any wear so i might as well go the extra mile.

What are Your Suggestoins?

 

Do you need to stay OBD2 to pass emissions or anything?

 

ya, in Illinois their really strict with that so i guess my answer is yes. PirateMcFred i emailed you asking for your advice becasue you have a very nice non vtec engine. i dont want to go vtec, but if that is the only way, then i guess ill make due.

 

If you have to stay obd2, then I am affraid that you are severely limited on what you can do on your engine. You can swap in some USDM H22A1 pistons and get around 11.5:1 CR and go with a mild cam regrind from Delta, or get a 'stage 1' Crower camshaft upgrade that should not hurt your emissions too much and might get you (conservatively) to about 165ish-170whp with a nice bump in torque assuming you have a decent exhaust and a free(er) flowing catylitic converter. The problem with taking all the time and effort to build up your OBD2 H23 is that you will be limited as to what you can tune with. I think about the best you can get is a SAFC and a fuel pressure regulator to be OBD2 compliant and to be able to support that amount of power with the stock 235cc/min injectors.

So unless you can bite the bullet and do whatever it takes to go to OBD1 then I would say that some smaller diameter tires (like some 205/40/16s or 205/50/15s) and a short geering M2F4 or T2T4 transmission will make your car feel peppier and let you accelerate faster despite having no actual increase in power.

If you are not interested in doing all that work for 15-20whp or to swap the gearbox then I would consider 'temporary' performance modifications such as nitrous. SUB-0 H23 has done that and has made some really nice power with a pretty conservative setup. Mind you NO2 can easily destroy your motor if you are not careful. Professionals would be happy to help you in that department.

In the meantime you can do a simple ignition refresh (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) which could bump the power back up since you are probably well over 100k miles on your decade-old h23, or you can start saving up for an H22 swap like many have done before you.

Pirate

 

well thank you very much for your feedback. i think im going to go convervative as you say. Ok so i will get a OBDII compliant Fuel pressure regulator, possibly some USDM H22A1 pistons, stage 1 Crower camshaft upgrade and possibly some NO2. this all sounds good but i a few questions.

I got a free GMB water pump from Japan and a free timing belt from a company called 'Ro-Drive' or 'Roulunds', which is from DenMark and says 127 hp 240. But the thing is that i've never heard of either company
Is there a performace water pump and timing belt that i can get for my prelude becasue its running on 90,000 miles now.?

Wht is the SAFC that you are talking about?,

what about port and polishing my head? and Intake Manifold?

Im really sorry for asking so many questions. i just dont want to make a costly mistake.

 

What are your power goals, application and budget? Why are you interested in building the H23? Why no VTEC?

I would stay with OEM waterpump and timing belts. They have lasted you 90K miles so far. That seems pretty reliable to me. I have heard of people using Intera GSR timing belts on H23s but I personally have never tried it. At 90Kmiles I think a valvejob could be very beneficial to you in terms of cost-effective modifications to your H23. But to do that you hav to pull the head apart.

The problem with taking all the time to rebuild/modify a H23 is that it is just as expensive to rebuild an H22. Since you are stuck with OBD2 you have to consider your options. It sounds like you are the type of person to have a shop do the work for you. It can and will get expensive quickly if you are not doing the work yourself.

I DO NOT recommend using nitrous if you are going to go to increase the compression with OEM pistons. The cast pistons are not that strong and you will not have the tools to tune it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude96h23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just dont want to make a costly mistake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cars are money pits. everything you do to them is 'costly.'

$500 cams
$300 springs and retainers
$300 valves
$500 pistons
$400 rods
$1000 sleeved block
$1000 full port on head
$500 quality stainless exhaust
$500-$1200 custom header
$350 valvejob only not including parts if necessary
$200 throttlebody
$200 new seals, bearings, belts, fluids and gaskets
$500+ tuning
$400-$1000 Transmission
$600 clutch/flywheel
$500-$1000 wheels
$450-$700 tires
$3000 quality paint job

Get my drift? One wreck and the insurance company will total it.

Pirate

 

thank you Pirate. I think i completely understand what my options are. hey if i have any more questions i would like to contact you becasue you are a reasonable person to talk to. thank you once again.

Do you have an email i can contact you with if i run in to a question?

thank you once again.

 

Just PM me here.