Ok, just checked my dipstick today after about 2k miles went by since my last 10w30 mobil1 oil change, AND THE DIPSTICK IS DRY!!!!!!!!! WTF!!!!!!!!
also when my car is cold, it has trouble idling for about a minute. Last time D did a compression test for me, everything was 235's.....what's wrong?

 

Fill it back up to see how much you actually burned. I checked mine once and the dipstick just had a tiny speck of oil at the tip, but it only took a half quart to fill it up. You may not be burning as much as you think.

 

Burning oil in an R is pretty common. Just keep a more careful eye on it.

 

i was just told to stop running synthetic oils. The head tech at Acura of Greenwich was saying that the synthetic eats away at the valve seals. Now if this wasnt true... why would he say to switch to a cheaper oil? And he has been working for Acura since 1988... As In Day 1... He also pointed out that now Honda wants to be running 0W20 in all the new cars except the NSX which hasnt had any major engine changes. They really just punched to a 3.2L and a few other mods...

I too have been leaking oil, so Im going to try the switch this weekend when I do my oil. He recommended 10W40 or 10W30 non-synth. He said he would like ot sell the Honda oil, but there really is no differance. FYI Honda develops their oils in house, then they send them out to Mobil for mass produciton.

I would try and switch oil of the quick fixes dont work. Im due for a 30K check up and Im having them do it.

 

It all depends on how you drive your R!


I burnt through some oil self, but I drive my R hard!

 

When you start burning a quart a week, get back to me......

 

change your oil back to 5w30 (thicker oil burns faster)and monitor oil consumption (normal driving)record mileage and see how much oil you have to add after 1k miles,Im assuming you have no oil leaks or high mileage (no blue smoke from your exhaust)troubled idling hmm what mods you got?do a head gasket leak test!

 

Funny how this comes up all the time. Quite a while ago, everybody talked about how to break in your engine and when to switch to synthetic. I say break it in like your going to drive it and wait till at least 20k miles before switching to synthetic. My theory didn't get the popular vote, but I finally switched to Mobil 1 at 31k miles. 3000 miles later my oil level is the same as when I changed it last. I drive the car pretty hard. It seems that the people who babied their cars during breakin and switched to synthetic early (<10k miles) are using more oil than they should be. Makes me wonder.

 

Bah, if she's thirsty give her fluids


[Modified by sackdz, 3:07 PM 4/11/2002]

 

It's not unusual for me to consume a quart or a quart-and-a-half between oil changes. I spend long stretches in VTEC and work up through the gears with reckless abandon.

Finding yourself that low means you need to check it more often. I generally check it every time I gas my ITR. I'll start at the 75% mark and add when it gets to the lower dot, so it's never short.

I wouldn't stress about the consumption (as long as it's not a "quart a week" habit) if you're into spirited driving. I guess I need to update the ol' sig.

 

my personal engine usually get about 10 miles of break-in lol
if it doesnt break during that time, then its good to go.

 

******' A.

 

i always hear of R's burning oil, but i've personally never burned enough oil to actually notice it. So far I've been to couple Autox's and a Weekend track event/time trials at Buttonwillow and no oil burned. I don't know. Don't get me wrong, I drive my car hard.
No holding back at the track. If i do suspect it burnt oil, its so minor that I'm not sure if it really did or not. Anyways, just wanted to share that with everyone. I hope nothing is wrong with my R.
Knock on wood

thomas

 

Well guys she needed a full 2 quarts of oil to be at the normal oil level that's like a quart of oil a month...isn't that a bit strange?

 

Hey Pinhead...what setup are you running? I know you are either running JunIIIs, or going to soon...

The reason I ask is because a friend of mine just went JUN-crazy on his GS-R motor...StageIII cams, the whole nine yards required for 200whp. And he burned a shitload of oil, like Spy-Hunter style, so bad it was shooting black smoke out of his exhaust...it turned out the piston rings were improperly gapped. Post, or let me know privately, and I'll give you his contact info if it is indeed the same problem.

 

my car is quite stock right now, but bc of all the nitrous I have used maybe the rings are fucked up, who knows , and I will be going Toda C's soon

 

check the gaps on the piston rings...but it is an expensive job if you can't do it yourself.

 

I'm down to under 500 miles per quart, and I'm starting to worry. That's about 2 weeks for me, but I think the odometer is probably more useful for measuring consumption than the calendar, don't you?

 

I believe they say 1000 miles per quart is acceptable. Try running a 10-30 non-synthetic as a test and see if things improve., can't hurt, my guess is that your consumption may decrease. Your compression test doesn't really tell if there are problems with your oil rings, just your compression rings, so although the numbers are good they don't tell the whole story. But I would start by trying a different oil, I know my consumption dropped heavily when I switched. I have no faith in that statement made by the Honda tech at Greenwhich Acura. No offense, but their oil chemistry knowledge leaves much to be desired in most cases. They are great at what they do, read shop manuals and crank down bolts, but I wouldn't trust their chemistry knowledge. ****, 10-40 regular oil is about the worst thing you could use in any car, let alone a Honda. I would never touch that stuff. (10-40 synthetic is a different story though). If the guy recommended that stuff , do not pay any attention to anything else he tells you. I have little faith in the newer light weight oils being pushed by Honda also, I am sure they are being used to improve fuel consumption more than anything, maybe the engine specs are being built around such oil, but that stuff is getting too thin for my liking. I would gladly give up a few mpg and whp to run a better protecting higher viscosity oil. Right now I am running a semi-synthetic Castrol blend oil 10-30, I think it works really well and does not burn as fast as when I used Mobil1. My second choice would be the non-synthetic regular 10-30 Castrol . One thing though, I don't drive my car in winter so 10-30 is fine for me, colder climate driving may require 5-30 for better circulation and protection. hth.


[Modified by JSIR, 8:31 PM 4/11/2002]

 

When is the best time to check for engine oil? When the engine is cold and start it to run for a minute or two then shut it off and check?

 

Nitrous...lol, nough said.

 

I'd been thinking of trying this idea, actually. I use regular 5w-30 Castrol now when I add oil, and the dealer puts in either Valvoline or Mobil or QuakerState (I can't remember what kick they're on now). What if I just start putting in 10w-30 instead of waiting until the next change?

PS I'm sure a bunch of Mobil-1-or-death purists are not impressed by my oil cocktail -- try to resist flaming me.

 

i have about 30k on my r and i've run Ams oil since about 12k i drive my car extremely hard and have no problems

 

well I suggest that because I had a bad valve guide on my head and it was leaking oil badly when I ran Mobil1 synthetic oil, when I switched to Castrol 10-30 regular oil it would not leak nearly as much. It was not a fix for the bad valve guide as I had to repair it shortly after, but I did notice that the regular oil did not leak nearly as much. I would do it as a complete oil change instead of adding it to the existing oil. Only real way to tell if it makes a difference.

 

Hey man, if you might have read your hand book on the ITR, it says fill up with 5 W 30 oil. Try that and see what happens.