How hard is to change factory motor mounts?
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Chesapeake, VA
How hard is to change factory motor mounts?
I was wondering how to change them because my sedan has about 132k on it and it feels like the mounts are going especially when i down shift. I've never replaced motor mounts so i'm kind of a newb at this. I know that you have to support the motor but how easy is to access the mount themselves? Another question, should i replace them with new factory mounts or do you have suggestions on polyurethine(sp?) inserts or something along those lines? ANy help would be great. I'd rather fix it now because they snap and ruin something. Thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Ft. Hood
Re: How hard is to change factory motor mounts? (4g4d)
Front Engine Mount - Difficulty - 1/10
- Unbolt from front crossmember, unbolt from transmission. Put new on, use prybar to line it up, bolt back into crossmember.
Driver's Side Engine Mount - Difficulty - 3/10
- Place jack and block of wood under oil pan so it is just supportive enough. Unbolt mount from framerail, then unbolt from the mount bracket. Pull it out, replace with new one. Use jack as needed.
Passenger Side Engine Mount - Difficulty - 5/10.
- Sometimes it is best to remove the whole bracket assembly off the transmission and work from there. I haven't done this in a while, but I know I don't like doing it.
Rear Engine Mount - Difficulty - Infinite Curse Words + Beer Breaks/10
- You have to lower or remove the rear crossmember for that, and that requires you to remove the lower control arms, disconnect the power steering lines if you have them, and disconnect the steering column inside the car. Among things....I hate it. Thank god My JimFab rear mount is accessable without removing the crossmember.
Now on the choice of mounts, it depends on what type of ride and comfort level you want. Stock mounts will be just that, quiet, smooth, you'll feel the motor twisting from time to time. Inserts will up the vibration level and the motor won't move as much. I have solid urethane mounts in the front and rear and when I hit the gas with stock shocks, my rear end would head for the ground and the front end head for the sky.
- Unbolt from front crossmember, unbolt from transmission. Put new on, use prybar to line it up, bolt back into crossmember.
Driver's Side Engine Mount - Difficulty - 3/10
- Place jack and block of wood under oil pan so it is just supportive enough. Unbolt mount from framerail, then unbolt from the mount bracket. Pull it out, replace with new one. Use jack as needed.
Passenger Side Engine Mount - Difficulty - 5/10.
- Sometimes it is best to remove the whole bracket assembly off the transmission and work from there. I haven't done this in a while, but I know I don't like doing it.
Rear Engine Mount - Difficulty - Infinite Curse Words + Beer Breaks/10
- You have to lower or remove the rear crossmember for that, and that requires you to remove the lower control arms, disconnect the power steering lines if you have them, and disconnect the steering column inside the car. Among things....I hate it. Thank god My JimFab rear mount is accessable without removing the crossmember.
Now on the choice of mounts, it depends on what type of ride and comfort level you want. Stock mounts will be just that, quiet, smooth, you'll feel the motor twisting from time to time. Inserts will up the vibration level and the motor won't move as much. I have solid urethane mounts in the front and rear and when I hit the gas with stock shocks, my rear end would head for the ground and the front end head for the sky.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Ft. Hood
Re: How hard is to change factory motor mounts? (greddy13)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greddy13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there all easy </TD></TR></TABLE> Does your definition of easy involve taking the motor out with a hoist and then doing the mounts?
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rocketfuelcerx
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Jan 21, 2005 01:23 PM
