On a real tight budget and need a car to drive. I should be getting my GC coilovers soon and they're just the off the shelf spring rates. Friend is selling some adjustable KYB AGX's that are used. Said it was only dropped 1.5-2.0". And they came on the car he bought...

All I have is stock shocks from my old suspension would it be better to get the AGX's or use my stock ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dingy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a real tight budget and need a car to drive. I should be getting my GC coilovers soon and they're just the off the shelf spring rates. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tight budget and suspension don't mix. Don't do anything until you can afford a quality setup, or you'll pay more in the long run when it a) fails or b) you can't stand the ride.

KYBs were not meant to handle GC springrates. That will either cause them to blow (I had a set go on me when on Eibach Pro-Kits) or give you a very poor underdamped ride.

If your suspension is gone, I'd look into Koni Reds or Tokico Illluminas on stock springs or lowering springs if you can afford them. Then save up some money for the GCs later on.

 

Well, my GC are already on the way here.

 

Well, I would probably run on your stock shocks until you can afford some used Konis. You'll just be spending money on the KYBs which will probably last about as long as the stock shocks with that setup, and the KYBs won't give you a much better ride anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I would probably run on your stock shocks until you can afford some used Konis. You'll just be spending money on the KYBs which will probably last about as long as the stock shocks with that setup, and the KYBs won't give you a much better ride anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Another thing is my GC Coilovers are only specified for everything but Koni's. How long can stock shocks handle say 2" drop?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dingy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another thing is my GC Coil-overs are only specified for everything but Koni's. How long can stock shocks handle say 2" drop?</TD></TR></TABLE>

From my personal experience, I can tell you that OEM shocks can handle the spring rates indefinenlty. And while the handling of the car won't be optimal, they should keep the car from bouncing on down the road. The fact is, it all depends on how carefully you drive. I used my OEM shocks with Ground-Controls (400f/250r) for 5 years & 50k miles lowered almost 3 inches. When I recently switched to Koni sport shocks, my OEM ones were still considerably stiffer than the Koni's on their softest setting... Here are some tips:

- Go gently over speed bumps
- Learn roads quickly to avoid recurring bumps & pot holes
- Don't run over ANYTHING

Setup (for reference): Stock 94 Civic CX (2100 lbs) on 205/40/16 tires & average weight Konig 16x7 rims

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From my personal experience, I can tell you that OEM shocks can handle the spring rates indefinenlty. And while the handling of the car won't be optimal, they should keep the car from bouncing on down the road. The fact is, it all depends on how carefully you drive. I used my OEM shocks with Ground-Controls (400f/250r) for 5 years & 50k miles lowered almost 3 inches. When I recently switched to Koni sport shocks, my OEM ones were still considerably stiffer than the Koni's on their softest setting... Here are some tips:

- Go gently over speed bumps
- Learn roads quickly to avoid recurring bumps & pot holes
- Don't run over ANYTHING

Setup (for reference): Stock 94 Civic CX (2100 lbs) on 205/40/16 tires & average weight Konig 16x7 rims</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn.

How do you test shocks for life left in them? My car is already lowered but with like 2 finger gap all the way around maybe a lil less up front.

Also what's the next best thing to Koni Yellows?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dingy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn.

How do you test shocks for life left in them? My car is already lowered but with like 2 finger gap all the way around maybe a lil less up front.

Also what's the next best thing to Koni Yellows?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think there is a specific test to see how long your dampers will last without sending them to a professional. They either work, or they don't. You'll know when they stop working properly because the car will continue to bounce after hitting a bump (even on smooth road). It's usually bottoming out that causes damage in OEM (good quality) shocks. With a 2 finger gap & carful driving, I'm sure you will be fine for a good long time...

Next best to Koni's would be Tokico Illuminas. They are also adjustable (5 or 7 settings), and they also come with a lifetime warranty...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think there is a specific test to see how long your dampers will last without sending them to a professional. They either work, or they don't. You'll know when they stop working properly because the car will continue to bounce after hitting a bump (even on smooth road). It's usually bottoming out that causes damage in OEM (good quality) shocks. With a 2 finger gap & carful driving, I'm sure you will be fine for a good long time...

Next best to Koni's would be Tokico Illuminas. They are also adjustable (5 or 7 settings), and they also come with a lifetime warranty...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Noo, my car is already dropped on springs (not the GC yet) . And idk how long it's been dropped like that cuz I bought the car already with them on.

 

Ok, never really looked at my springs while it was on the ground, but uhh the springs are compressed and touching eachother in the back. Can't see in the front, but would that cuz any damage to the shocks?

 

Usually lowering springs have some coils that will touch eachother when the car is on the ground. This is so the spring can be short, but still take up all the slack of the shock when it is at full droop. As long as some of the coils have space between them, your good. Damage only occours when all the coils bind (shock should bottom out way befor that happens)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Usually lowering springs have some coils that will touch eachother when the car is on the ground. This is so the spring can be short, but still take up all the slack of the shock when it is at full droop. As long as some of the coils have space between them, your good. Damage only occours when all the coils bind (shock should bottom out way befor that happens)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is NO space between them on the back. I checked the front and there's space between those.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dingy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is NO space between them on the back. I checked the front and there's space between those. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you get underneath & look at ALL the coils. If they are all touching, the car would not bounce when you pushed down on the body (solid). That is really bad because the only remaining suspension movment you would have left while driving is your tire. This can destroy your tires, suspension & bend the chassis...

If all coils are touching eachother, replace the springs & don't drive it until you do...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get underneath & look at ALL the coils. If they are all touching, the car would not bounce when you pushed down on the body (solid). That is really bad because the only remaining suspension movment you would have left while driving is your tire. This can destroy your tires, suspension & bend the chassis...

If all coils are touching eachother, replace the springs & don't drive it until you do...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry I only checked through the tire It's only the top half or a lil less from what I can see under the car that are sitting on eachother.

 

Thats how my stock CRX springs look too. Your good to go...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats how my stock CRX springs look too. Your good to go...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whew . I always hear like a thump from the back, sounds like it's hitting each other over road humps.

 

proably torn trailing arm bushings. Check to see if the center section of the bushing that mounts to the chassis is torn free of the outer section ring. Don't worry if they are torn. It's not dangerouse, but makes tons of noise. My CRX sounds like has woodpeckers in the back around turns.

The original bushing design was pretty poor and was redesigned later on in the integra line. The new ones can be had for about $25 each, but they require special tools (or professional press) to replace. Here is the part number:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">52385-S21-003 is the latest updated Honda part number for 88-00 civics (and DC2 integras which are same size as the EG but i dont think acura has a # for it) for the RTA bushing, from 2002 bulletin 00-006e. I just ordered 2 of them from magauto.com, they're about $25/ea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

A way to tell if your shocks are bad is by having the bare shock on your hands and compressing it all the way. If it doesn't come back up within a few seconds and smoothly, then they are bad. Of if they leak also.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A way to tell if your shocks are bad is by having the bare shock on your hands and compressing it all the way. If it doesn't come back up within a few seconds and smoothly, then they are bad. Of if they leak also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll check it out once they come in, hopefully today