this CRX a good buy for a beater?
There's a CRX for sale locally, a 1985 DX to be exact, for $500. Took some pics...



Both fenders have about the same amount of cancer and the bumper is equally bad on the other side. There is also a rust patch forming around where the passenger door meets the rear quarter panel, but on the floor pan. There's also a hole in the drivers front fender where it cracked, but I know there's a few in the local u-pull-it yard. No pics of the engine bay, but last night it started right up after a quick pump of the gas and ran/idle smooth. I'll be driving it sunday.
Thoughts?



Both fenders have about the same amount of cancer and the bumper is equally bad on the other side. There is also a rust patch forming around where the passenger door meets the rear quarter panel, but on the floor pan. There's also a hole in the drivers front fender where it cracked, but I know there's a few in the local u-pull-it yard. No pics of the engine bay, but last night it started right up after a quick pump of the gas and ran/idle smooth. I'll be driving it sunday.
Thoughts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$500, and it runs, I'd buy it. I'd show up with $400 in one pocket and $100 in the other, see if he'll take $400
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Hells yeah!
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Hells yeah!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$500, and it runs, I'd buy it. I'd show up with $400 in one pocket and $100 in the other, see if he'll take $400
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then drive around with a "for sale: $1000" sign in it for a couple months and double your money.
</TD></TR></TABLE>then drive around with a "for sale: $1000" sign in it for a couple months and double your money.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldint buy it... i hate the 1st g's</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here, I don't know, just don't care for them at all...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elrandeeto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cmon now crx and beater shouldnt be in the same sentence . try crx and project . project crx </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, so true
Same here, I don't know, just don't care for them at all...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elrandeeto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cmon now crx and beater shouldnt be in the same sentence . try crx and project . project crx </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, so true
Well, I wouldnt say I'd be leaving it completely stock.
I'd have to autocross it at least a little, though in HS at least at first. Then again, it does need new tires, so maybe I should just order some bigger/wider wheels azenis and head to STS2...
I'd have to autocross it at least a little, though in HS at least at first. Then again, it does need new tires, so maybe I should just order some bigger/wider wheels azenis and head to STS2...
Do they allow Azenis in STS2, I thought it was street tires only, and would azenis count as an R compound? Anyways a great autocross car but I dont think theres much for aftermarket suspension. I have seen a stock Si 1st gen take H-stock before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si0385. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldint buy it... i hate the 1st g's</TD></TR></TABLE> they suck to work on....so if your plans are for power/speed or a motor swap....i wouldnt do it, but if you plan to use the car as a beater then go for it (they great on gas)..........so yeah it's good for a beater
Just to add a few more shots:




I drove it today. First the bad: the ebrake does not work, the brakes are very weak but working, and the valve cover leaks. There's also a little more play in the steering that I was expecting, but then again it is a 21 year old car with a manual rack. It also desperately needs new tires, and the amount of road/wind noise was astounding. The drivers front fender needs replacing before it could be inspected as it has a hole, and the silver paneling on the passenger door is cracked, and the aforementioned cancer on the rear wheel arches.
The good: the engine pulls pretty well. According to the owner it is NOT the original motor, which was pulled at 140k, and is instead a low mileage JDM motor from one of the major importers (I dont remember who he said, but I know I recognized the name). That was about 180k ago, as the chassis has 333,000 miles on it.
The clutch engages extremely high in its travel but holds well and is easy to modulate once I figured out the engagement range. Tranny shifts flawlessly. Handling is very good (currently has KYB GR-2 struts), and the ride was fairly smooth given the **** tires and tiny wheelbase, it really shows its weight. Glass is all clear, headlights work, all electricals seem to be in shape. Structural rust does not seem to have developed yet (trunk pan is clean).




I drove it today. First the bad: the ebrake does not work, the brakes are very weak but working, and the valve cover leaks. There's also a little more play in the steering that I was expecting, but then again it is a 21 year old car with a manual rack. It also desperately needs new tires, and the amount of road/wind noise was astounding. The drivers front fender needs replacing before it could be inspected as it has a hole, and the silver paneling on the passenger door is cracked, and the aforementioned cancer on the rear wheel arches.
The good: the engine pulls pretty well. According to the owner it is NOT the original motor, which was pulled at 140k, and is instead a low mileage JDM motor from one of the major importers (I dont remember who he said, but I know I recognized the name). That was about 180k ago, as the chassis has 333,000 miles on it.
The clutch engages extremely high in its travel but holds well and is easy to modulate once I figured out the engagement range. Tranny shifts flawlessly. Handling is very good (currently has KYB GR-2 struts), and the ride was fairly smooth given the **** tires and tiny wheelbase, it really shows its weight. Glass is all clear, headlights work, all electricals seem to be in shape. Structural rust does not seem to have developed yet (trunk pan is clean).
i wouldn't pay more than $300 for that. i paid $400 for my AG4 (85 civic std) hatch back in 98 and it was cancer free with a new paint job. I had to replace the clutch and IM gasket and that car lasted for 3 years.
tell the guy that it's going to cost alot of money to fix the brakes, e-brake, cancer and valve cover, etc...hopefully the price will come down after you point out all the flaws.
if you think it's worth $500 then go for it.
does it have the ew1 or ev1 motor? is it 1.3 or 1.5 L?
tell the guy that it's going to cost alot of money to fix the brakes, e-brake, cancer and valve cover, etc...hopefully the price will come down after you point out all the flaws.
if you think it's worth $500 then go for it.
does it have the ew1 or ev1 motor? is it 1.3 or 1.5 L?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigcalidave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't waste your time. You can get an old SI for 500 as well, and you'll have the fuel injection. The vacuum lines are a nightmare on the carbureted versions.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IF he could find one. Good luck...
IF he could find one. Good luck...
dude any car thats like around 6-800 or less and runs will be a nice beater. condition doesnt really matter since ITS A BEATER.
i plan on either getting like a fucked up crx for like a couple hundred just for the winter or something in the catagory of a jeep wrangler. basically something that has 4wd and GROUND CLEARANCE so i can clear a ****** snowflake. actaully my dad drove my hatch a while ago and said he ran over a pop bottle and saw it still underneath the car when he got home, so he didnt clear it.
i plan on either getting like a fucked up crx for like a couple hundred just for the winter or something in the catagory of a jeep wrangler. basically something that has 4wd and GROUND CLEARANCE so i can clear a ****** snowflake. actaully my dad drove my hatch a while ago and said he ran over a pop bottle and saw it still underneath the car when he got home, so he didnt clear it.


