prelude autoX question
did some sereaches and found nothing with prelude in the title so i will ask you all for answers. First what type of alignment setups are you guys running with lowered ludes? i wondering about what - camber you are running and if any toe out you are running in the front. i currently have function and form coilover with custom rates and i have 615 falkens and stock rims i do have a 25mm swaybar on its way. any other things i should look into getting? i am in dsp class.
whats your goals
your in a pretty serius class
id stick with seat time until you have gotten good consistancy
than have somone thats doing better than you in your class drive your car and see how much better he does
as for alignment
is this a daily driver or autox only car
how long do you want your tires to last
your in a pretty serius class
id stick with seat time until you have gotten good consistancy
than have somone thats doing better than you in your class drive your car and see how much better he does
as for alignment
is this a daily driver or autox only car
how long do you want your tires to last
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basically, find a way to put as much front camber on the thing as you can. these aren't exact #'s, but guys have usually run along the lines of -3.5, -4 degrees, and about -2 in the rear.
you could run some toe out if you wanted to but, that's more of a preference thing. yeah and seat time will help way more than any mods.
you could run some toe out if you wanted to but, that's more of a preference thing. yeah and seat time will help way more than any mods.
The more front camber the better. For the past 2 years I've been running -2.5 front and -1.8 rear on my 00 Civic Si autocross and daily driving and my tires are still looking good. My Toyo Proxes 4s still have about 5mm of tread since I purchased them back in December 2004.
Although I run 0 toe front and back. Toe kills tires quicker than camber. I thought about doing about 1/16th toe out.
Although I run 0 toe front and back. Toe kills tires quicker than camber. I thought about doing about 1/16th toe out.
The first poster was the most correct. The best improvement you are going to get is going to be via seat time, and lots of it. Especially if you think this might be something you are into doing for a long time. Otherwise leave your car as it is. (What sway bar did you get?)
For an alignment, just get as much camber as you can, and leave your toe at zero until you have more experience.
Why do you run in DSP? Have you replaced the clutch with an after market unit? USDM Engine swap? Hi flow Cat? Just asking, because you might be able to run in a Street Touring (street tire) class if all you have is bolt ons.
For an alignment, just get as much camber as you can, and leave your toe at zero until you have more experience.
Why do you run in DSP? Have you replaced the clutch with an after market unit? USDM Engine swap? Hi flow Cat? Just asking, because you might be able to run in a Street Touring (street tire) class if all you have is bolt ons.
"Why do you run in DSP? Have you replaced the clutch with an after market unit? USDM Engine swap? Hi flow Cat? Just asking, because you might be able to run in a Street Touring (street tire) class if all you have is bolt ons."
I agree with mtbprelude on this one also. Unless you have something on the car that takes you out of either STS or STX you are "outclassing" yourself in DSP.
And as the other posters have said. There is no better "performance upgrade" than seat time.
Learn your car in stock or semi-stock trim before you make any radical changes to make you "faster".
I agree with mtbprelude on this one also. Unless you have something on the car that takes you out of either STS or STX you are "outclassing" yourself in DSP.
And as the other posters have said. There is no better "performance upgrade" than seat time.
Learn your car in stock or semi-stock trim before you make any radical changes to make you "faster".
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Not sure why everyone assumes you're a newb, but I've been AWOL a long time.
As I recall (my FSM is hiding from me), camber is not adjustable - aside from lowering the car. 0 toe should be good.
You are pretty underprepared for SP, so if there's nothing on your car that forces you out of ST, I second the suggestion to run that. I suggest your next purchase be wheels, because lugging around 20lb wheels only 6.5 inches wide isn't going to get you anywhere fast.
As I recall (my FSM is hiding from me), camber is not adjustable - aside from lowering the car. 0 toe should be good.
You are pretty underprepared for SP, so if there's nothing on your car that forces you out of ST, I second the suggestion to run that. I suggest your next purchase be wheels, because lugging around 20lb wheels only 6.5 inches wide isn't going to get you anywhere fast.
This is my third year of autox first in the lude. 2nd thing i do have aftermarket clutch and lighten flywheel. What i am really look for around my area is a weekend course that would help better my skills. sway bar i bote is a 25 mm from tanabea.
i am working on getting forge rims now been doing some research and was also wondering if anyone knew the wieght of the 15inch and 16 inch z212 hankooks? Aldo anyone recomond a forged rim over others and good websites too look at?
If you want to travel a bit there is are Evolution schools you can attend. Probably the best school for a non-novice autocrosser. They are about $200-$250 for a full day. You get more runs than you can stand and a National Champion instructor.
Dates in your part of the country are:
July 15th Pittsburg PA
July 15th Englishtown NJ
August 18,19, 20 Long Island, NY
http://autocross.server269.com.../news/
regards,
alan
Dates in your part of the country are:
July 15th Pittsburg PA
July 15th Englishtown NJ
August 18,19, 20 Long Island, NY
http://autocross.server269.com.../news/
regards,
alan
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