Hey, i got my 2000 accord v6 couple about almost a year ago with 70,000mi on it. Since i've had it, there has been the growling or humming noise that is relative to speed. As i drive faster it gets louder. I read somewhere that it might be the wheel bearing. My question is does this sound like a wheel bearing gone bad, and if so how would i be able to tell and which one i would need to replace?? Thanks.

 

Does sounds like a wheel bearing. To test. Drive your car, 35mph+ and make slight turns, see if the sound faints away and comes back when you straighten the steering wheel.

 

k i did what you said and when i turn left, the sound goes away until i go straight again and itll come back, which bearings does this mean i got to replace? Thanks.

 

Did you jack up the car, and try shaking, and turning each wheel to see if that would give you any indication? Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

If the noise goes away while turning and then comes back when you go straight, there is no reason for you to perform anyother tests. That one eliminates all others, you should always do that first. Its all the same front or back. If you turn left and the noise faints thats your right wheel bearing, because you take all the weight of that bearing.
Do you know if its a front or rear? Usually its pretty easy to tell. When you take the bearing out, try to spin it, I hate that grinding/humming noise, it just moves through out my whole body.
let us know how it went. I'm glad that I has been some help to you.
Catch ya later.

 

o ok, so u think i should put it on the lift, take off the right bearings and check to see if its front or back, then order the new bearings?

 

No no no. I said when you take the <U>bad</U> bearing out, after he verified which on it is. It was just an after job is done deal.
Its your right side bearing thats bad. When you drive the car shoould hear where its coming from. Front its usually the grinding/hummimg, rear its the loud humming noise.

 

yea its a loud humming noise and it gets louder the faster i go, like 60+mph its jus lime HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM, so bad... and when i go in the truck as someone else is driving , i can hear it so loud... so you think its probably the rear right since when i turn left it goes away??

 

wow... im going trought the same **** right now -- crazy...


anyway here's what to do to find out which one (exactly what i did)

go to open parkinglot && speed up to about 40, then jerk your wheel to your left (avoid posts and other objects) if the noise is still there then its your right side, next jerk your wheel to the right. if the noise stops then its on the right side. because of the weight transfer from one side of the car to the other the ammount of force on the wheels drops causing the vibration to stop. going down a slight hill and a slight jerk of wheel to either side would help you figure out if its the front or rear a lil better if you cant exactly desicide on which one it is.

p.s. close your windows when u drive, you'll actualy be able to hear better because what ur listening to is the vibration trough your car && the wind will make it harder to point if its louder in front of car or rear.

 

Dima, you just repeated everything I said. He already done all that couple days ago. Read all the replys before posting yours. Sometimes it saves the embarassment.

 

LMAOOO i know.... sorry

i was tryin to be a smart *** cuz my buddy was sitting next to me and i just went on a crazy typing spree //


i was having too much fun and poor ht got to see the negative side of it..


*gulp*

 

Also take a look under your car to see if the axle seals are leaking (where the axles go into the transmission). If both of them are then it's reman transmission time because your differential has gone bad. That noise is very close to wheel bearing noise.

 

im pretty sure its my back right, now what exactly would i need to replace this, do i need the hub, the bearing, both... im not really sure ... if u could help me out on that thatd be great guys, btw thanks for all the help so far...this has been pissing me off so much lol

 

You just need the wheel bearing itself replaced. take off the entire wheel hub and take it to your local auto shop and get the bearing pressed out. Make sure its a good shop cause just getting it pressed back in can damage the new one. but it shouldnt cost much for them to press it out. Good Luck

 

is there anyway i can do it myself, my friend has a lift and everypossible tool u can think of in his garage we usually do all our car mods in there (also sidebar but its only letting me post 5 messages every 25 hours and says im on a trial, how do i become like a full member or something??) Thanks again.

 

You got to make like 30 plus posts before they'll let you roam this joint completely. And yes you can do it yourself. Dont let anyone tell you, you cant. Let me find a link for you.

 

Ok, I couldnt find a link for it but if MooGoCow3 replies again, ask him to get you the info on the job. He is da man with the cool stuff, lol.
Well all I can tell you is that its the same part# from 98-02.
You can do it yourself if yo ugood with a hammer. I've done it, on similar setups.
Look up a member name Willard in this site, he had a write up on the front wheel bearing removal/installation. Its basically same thing. Good luck

 

thanks a lot ... any further help would be nice, otherwise im pretty sure i know what i need to do for the most part, jus need details on how now, i gotta pick up the haynes manual i figured itd be in there. Thanks again.

 

are you sure humming noise not coming from your tires?

this is how I check my wheel barings. I use a floorjack, first lift car's front - I hold the tire from north(top)+south(bottom) shake, then hold from East(right)+West(left) if its has play even 1mm then I would replace my bearing.

now hardest part is taking the bearing out from the hub, you will need 6lbs+hammer, two guys from the Jimm, and 1 case of beer. now if you have air tools you don't need buddys and beer. me always beer. buddys! they don't call/answer me when I am in Trouble.

while you doing this, its also good to check your balljoints, nuckel bush, drive shaft boots, any sign of oil, antif leaks etc.

 

we have many power tools, a lift, and yes...we can get some beer (although underage ahha) but when did that ever stop us... thanks for the help.

 

Raise the rear of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.

Remove the wheel nuts and rear wheel.

Pull the parking brake lever up.

Remove the hub cap.

Raise the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove the nut.

Release the parking brake

Remove the brake drum and the hub/bearing unit.

Install the hub/bearing unit in the reverse order of removal, and pay particular attention to the following items:

Wash the bearing and spindle thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly.

After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the spindle.

The new bearing/hub comes pre- assembled so there is no need to press a new one in.

 

See told you MooGoCow3 is tha Man!

 

o ok so your saying remove the whole hub, and buy a hub with the bearing already assembled in it and put that in?

 

Backing up about a mile, here is something that is very useful.

A sawed off broom stick works like a stethoscope.
For example, block the car, jack it up, the support the axel, spin the wheel (rear is easy), now take that sawed off stick and put one end as close to the bearing as you can get it. Stick the other end in your ear. Bingo - when you find the bad one, you will hear a distinctive growl.

Works good on the engine, isolating intake/exhaust valve noises, bad alternator bearings, and power steering pumps... and its cheap.....

I am not recommending you start the car and do this, but it could be done on the front wheels as well.

If you decide to pound your new bearing in with a hammer (not recomended), here are a couple of things to keep in mind: Only apply force to the area which has the interferance fit. Meaning, if the outer race is the interferance fit to the part and you beat on the inner race, you will damge the bearing. Basically, support immediate area that resists going together. Keep the old bearing, it may be useful later...

Good Luck,
ra