are there many 4x100 redrilled Prelude VTEC rotor users out there?
hi guys.
i run the 11" Prelude VTEC rotors on the front of my H1 racecar (ITR/Accord wagon/NSX/Legend calipers machined to fit to Integra knuckles with the 4x100 redrilled Prelude VTEC rotor). fairly standard front brakes for guys racing in H1 with 15" wheels.....
anyway, i go thru a front set of rotors in 2-3 weekends as a general rule (they end up cracking thru). i generally machine 2 pairs of the Prelude VTEC rotors at a time for my own consumption, several times per year, as needed.
i got to thinking, maybe i should do a large run of the rotors (maybe 15 to 20 pairs)?
anybody else out there might be interested in purchasing a few pairs, machined and ready to bolt on?
i'll be racing at most all of the NASA MA and some of the NASA IN/OH events, so i could deliver the suckers and save shipping on those heavy bastards......
anyway, just thought i'd throw it out there; i'm gonna be ordering several pairs to do up soon, so i might as well make it more, if there is some demand for them?
please feel free to email or IM me with any thoughts or even general questions on the 11" brakes....
BTW, i'm really looking forward to Beaverun; it'll be here before we know it!!!!
i run the 11" Prelude VTEC rotors on the front of my H1 racecar (ITR/Accord wagon/NSX/Legend calipers machined to fit to Integra knuckles with the 4x100 redrilled Prelude VTEC rotor). fairly standard front brakes for guys racing in H1 with 15" wheels.....
anyway, i go thru a front set of rotors in 2-3 weekends as a general rule (they end up cracking thru). i generally machine 2 pairs of the Prelude VTEC rotors at a time for my own consumption, several times per year, as needed.
i got to thinking, maybe i should do a large run of the rotors (maybe 15 to 20 pairs)?
anybody else out there might be interested in purchasing a few pairs, machined and ready to bolt on?
i'll be racing at most all of the NASA MA and some of the NASA IN/OH events, so i could deliver the suckers and save shipping on those heavy bastards......
anyway, just thought i'd throw it out there; i'm gonna be ordering several pairs to do up soon, so i might as well make it more, if there is some demand for them?
please feel free to email or IM me with any thoughts or even general questions on the 11" brakes....
BTW, i'm really looking forward to Beaverun; it'll be here before we know it!!!!
Todd:
Is there any difference to the re-drilled Prelude rotors and running the 4x100 VW Corrado rotors? I know you (I) have to have the Fastbrakes hub-centric ring, but other than that, is there an advantage to the 'Lude set-up?
Is there any difference to the re-drilled Prelude rotors and running the 4x100 VW Corrado rotors? I know you (I) have to have the Fastbrakes hub-centric ring, but other than that, is there an advantage to the 'Lude set-up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Todd:
Is there any difference to the re-drilled Prelude rotors and running the 4x100 VW Corrado rotors? I know you (I) have to have the Fastbrakes hub-centric ring, but other than that, is there an advantage to the 'Lude set-up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi thawley!!!
i like the Prelude VTEC rotors because they have the exact perfect centerbore for the integra knuckles; factory perfect fit (no hubring needed). if it weren't for them coming drilled for 4x114.3 from the factory, they would be heaven sent! so, one must take them and redrill the 4x100 pattern so that they fit the standard Teg knuckle....
with the Prelude VTEC rotors thus drilled, and the integra knuckles combined with a set of the big calipers (ITR or Accord Wagon or NSX or Legend) with the mounting brackets slightly milled -- well, you get a perfect factory fit and performing oem brake system that does an excellent job of stopping a 2400 lb 200+ whp H1 racecar lap after lap.....
todd
Is there any difference to the re-drilled Prelude rotors and running the 4x100 VW Corrado rotors? I know you (I) have to have the Fastbrakes hub-centric ring, but other than that, is there an advantage to the 'Lude set-up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi thawley!!!
i like the Prelude VTEC rotors because they have the exact perfect centerbore for the integra knuckles; factory perfect fit (no hubring needed). if it weren't for them coming drilled for 4x114.3 from the factory, they would be heaven sent! so, one must take them and redrill the 4x100 pattern so that they fit the standard Teg knuckle....
with the Prelude VTEC rotors thus drilled, and the integra knuckles combined with a set of the big calipers (ITR or Accord Wagon or NSX or Legend) with the mounting brackets slightly milled -- well, you get a perfect factory fit and performing oem brake system that does an excellent job of stopping a 2400 lb 200+ whp H1 racecar lap after lap.....
todd
Saw a company last year at SEMA AC that was making brake parts. I can't remember the name of it for the life of me. Chad and myself asked about them making a custom hat for a 2 piece rotor set up. The guys said they would do it, they would just need to have a large enough demand for them.
Not saying lets go out and do that, but it's a thought. It would obviously have larger costs involved, but may save a little bit in the long run especially in time and effort. For those of us that use the prelude/itr rotors at least.
Not saying lets go out and do that, but it's a thought. It would obviously have larger costs involved, but may save a little bit in the long run especially in time and effort. For those of us that use the prelude/itr rotors at least.
I thought Fastbrakes already had that available (the two-piece rotor thing). And they aren't cheaper, they're around $100 for the new disc part.
I had Stoptech made me a set. Same with the one they sell for ITR, except I asked them to make mine 4x100. And I mated it with their NSX replacement 2 piece rotor.
Although, nowadays I just run a pre-drilled Legend rotors.
Try Legend rotors. They seem to be pretty durable for me. Maybe because it is thicker than the Prelude and ITR. Keep in mind you can't use ITR caliper, has to be legend or NSX.
Although, nowadays I just run a pre-drilled Legend rotors.
Try Legend rotors. They seem to be pretty durable for me. Maybe because it is thicker than the Prelude and ITR. Keep in mind you can't use ITR caliper, has to be legend or NSX.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Try Legend rotors. They seem to be pretty durable for me. Maybe because it is thicker than the Prelude and ITR. Keep in mind you can't use ITR caliper, has to be legend or NSX.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi andrie!
the one thing i don't like about the legend rotors is that the hub bore is too big to fit "right" on the integra spindle. i really like the rotor to be fitted properly on the hub so that it is centered up on the spindle.
i guess i could machine up some hubcentric rings to fit into the legend rotors and make them fit right on the integra spindles, but that just seems like extra parts (that i would probably end up losing during a race weekend when changing the rotors sometime!!!); i really like the way the redrilled Prelude VTEC rotors fit now......
thanx for the input, tho!!!!
todd
Try Legend rotors. They seem to be pretty durable for me. Maybe because it is thicker than the Prelude and ITR. Keep in mind you can't use ITR caliper, has to be legend or NSX.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi andrie!
the one thing i don't like about the legend rotors is that the hub bore is too big to fit "right" on the integra spindle. i really like the rotor to be fitted properly on the hub so that it is centered up on the spindle.
i guess i could machine up some hubcentric rings to fit into the legend rotors and make them fit right on the integra spindles, but that just seems like extra parts (that i would probably end up losing during a race weekend when changing the rotors sometime!!!); i really like the way the redrilled Prelude VTEC rotors fit now......
thanx for the input, tho!!!!
todd
Trending Topics
id be interested in buyin a set. what kind of rotors would you be using ie: brembo blanks, cross drilled slotted, slotted? how much would they run?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMTurboEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id be interested in buyin a set. what kind of rotors would you be using ie: brembo blanks, cross drilled slotted, slotted? how much would they run?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would be interested and have the same questions. I got my Prelude VTEC rotors and calipers done last October and have been wondering about where I'm going to get my next set of rotors. I'd order 2-3 pairs as long as the price was reasonable.
I would be interested and have the same questions. I got my Prelude VTEC rotors and calipers done last October and have been wondering about where I'm going to get my next set of rotors. I'd order 2-3 pairs as long as the price was reasonable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd Reid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hi thawley!!!
i like the Prelude VTEC rotors because they have the exact perfect centerbore for the integra knuckles; factory perfect fit (no hubring needed). if it weren't for them coming drilled for 4x114.3 from the factory, they would be heaven sent! so, one must take them and redrill the 4x100 pattern so that they fit the standard Teg knuckle....
with the Prelude VTEC rotors thus drilled, and the integra knuckles combined with a set of the big calipers (ITR or Accord Wagon or NSX or Legend) with the mounting brackets slightly milled -- well, you get a perfect factory fit and performing oem brake system that does an excellent job of stopping a 2400 lb 200+ whp H1 racecar lap after lap.....
todd
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You couldn't have said it any better. I love my setup. Looking to move to dual piston legend and legend rotors eventually, but the prelude vtec setup is still overkill on the streets for now. Im sure after thunderbolt opens up next year, ill warp em and upgrade to the legend stuff.
hi thawley!!!
i like the Prelude VTEC rotors because they have the exact perfect centerbore for the integra knuckles; factory perfect fit (no hubring needed). if it weren't for them coming drilled for 4x114.3 from the factory, they would be heaven sent! so, one must take them and redrill the 4x100 pattern so that they fit the standard Teg knuckle....
with the Prelude VTEC rotors thus drilled, and the integra knuckles combined with a set of the big calipers (ITR or Accord Wagon or NSX or Legend) with the mounting brackets slightly milled -- well, you get a perfect factory fit and performing oem brake system that does an excellent job of stopping a 2400 lb 200+ whp H1 racecar lap after lap.....
todd
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You couldn't have said it any better. I love my setup. Looking to move to dual piston legend and legend rotors eventually, but the prelude vtec setup is still overkill on the streets for now. Im sure after thunderbolt opens up next year, ill warp em and upgrade to the legend stuff.
BTW,
one suggestion for fitting these brakes in our cars. Other than milling the bracket for the caliper, it is almost as easy to build a 1.5mm spacers to install behind the rotor. This way, you don't alter the bracket and can always re-sell your brakes to a bigger market.
one suggestion for fitting these brakes in our cars. Other than milling the bracket for the caliper, it is almost as easy to build a 1.5mm spacers to install behind the rotor. This way, you don't alter the bracket and can always re-sell your brakes to a bigger market.
What are you using to do a precision re-drill of the rotors. I had it done with a CAD maching once but boy was it pricey but precise. Did it the next time with a drill press and one went right and the other damn it went wrong. I was thinking about the Fastbrake blanks ($45 a piece) but I am told they should fit fine. I have a ITR caliper set up on an integra knuckle. I just ground the inside of the caliper bracket enough for the ITR rotor to clear.
Barry H.
Barry H.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie Hartanto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep in mind you can't use ITR caliper, has to be legend or NSX.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is true except it's not the caliper itself, it's the caliper bracket. Too bad the dealership won't sell the bracket alone.
This is true except it's not the caliper itself, it's the caliper bracket. Too bad the dealership won't sell the bracket alone.
I use an ITR redrilled rotor with a 3mm spacer between the rotor itself and the hub. The rotor isn't hub centric but I never had a problem.
Main reason is that they sell the itr rotor 50% the price of the prelude's locally.
Main reason is that they sell the itr rotor 50% the price of the prelude's locally.
hi guys!
when i machined the caliper brackets (waaaaay back in 1999) i had a machine shop do it for me; i believe they took off 0.120", and they used a big end milling machine to do it; they fabbed a jig up to hold the brackets down to the mill table....
the same machine shop did my first couple set of rotors; he made up a jig and the jig fits to the new rotor. using a drill press and the jig, the rotors come out perfect.
some more backround info: back in 1999, i did the ITR big brake thing on my 1995 DX hatch. back then, i was racing the car with the d15b7 motor in it (102 hp). with the big ITR brakes, braking power was incredible. i'd race a whole season on one set of Hawk HP+ pads, and there would still be about 1/3 pad left!!!!! the rotors didn't even look used after a year..... then i went to a stock LS drivetrain (142 hp). used 2 sets of HP+ pads in a year; same rotors as were first installed in 1999; hardly any wear. after 2 years, i pulled the LS motor and it got "H1'd". total rebuilt, tons of headwork, cams, ecu, etc. 200 hp at that point and 2200 lbs. used about 2-3 sets of "full race" pads (Hawk Blue, Carbotech, Porterfield). finally used up the first set of front rotors (cracked then at the end of the year). then i went up to the K20A2 drivetrain and up to 2350-2400 lbs. holy cow; i started using brake parts then! now i go thru a set of pads in 2 weekends, and a set of rotors in 2-3 weekends (cracking thru). i really think its the extra mph at the end of the straights combined with the extra lbs..... car still stops well, but LOTS of heat and stress on the front brakes (last weekend at CMP):

costwise, i am thinking about $70 per rotor (blank rotors, not cross drilled or slotted), ready to bolt on the car.
thanx guys! let me know and i will order enough rotors and start the machine work; i'll bring them with me to the next few races so no shipping costs... i am willing to ship, too, but there will be some added $$$ (a pair of those rotors is about 25+ lbs).
when i machined the caliper brackets (waaaaay back in 1999) i had a machine shop do it for me; i believe they took off 0.120", and they used a big end milling machine to do it; they fabbed a jig up to hold the brackets down to the mill table....
the same machine shop did my first couple set of rotors; he made up a jig and the jig fits to the new rotor. using a drill press and the jig, the rotors come out perfect.
some more backround info: back in 1999, i did the ITR big brake thing on my 1995 DX hatch. back then, i was racing the car with the d15b7 motor in it (102 hp). with the big ITR brakes, braking power was incredible. i'd race a whole season on one set of Hawk HP+ pads, and there would still be about 1/3 pad left!!!!! the rotors didn't even look used after a year..... then i went to a stock LS drivetrain (142 hp). used 2 sets of HP+ pads in a year; same rotors as were first installed in 1999; hardly any wear. after 2 years, i pulled the LS motor and it got "H1'd". total rebuilt, tons of headwork, cams, ecu, etc. 200 hp at that point and 2200 lbs. used about 2-3 sets of "full race" pads (Hawk Blue, Carbotech, Porterfield). finally used up the first set of front rotors (cracked then at the end of the year). then i went up to the K20A2 drivetrain and up to 2350-2400 lbs. holy cow; i started using brake parts then! now i go thru a set of pads in 2 weekends, and a set of rotors in 2-3 weekends (cracking thru). i really think its the extra mph at the end of the straights combined with the extra lbs..... car still stops well, but LOTS of heat and stress on the front brakes (last weekend at CMP):

costwise, i am thinking about $70 per rotor (blank rotors, not cross drilled or slotted), ready to bolt on the car.
thanx guys! let me know and i will order enough rotors and start the machine work; i'll bring them with me to the next few races so no shipping costs... i am willing to ship, too, but there will be some added $$$ (a pair of those rotors is about 25+ lbs).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use an ITR redrilled rotor with a 3mm spacer between the rotor itself and the hub. The rotor isn't hub centric but I never had a problem.
Main reason is that they sell the itr rotor 50% the price of the prelude's locally.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I pay 32 a pop for prelude, how much are you paying for ITRs? And i also use the 3mm spacer inside the rotor, better because you can always go back to 10 inch brakes if needed be.
Main reason is that they sell the itr rotor 50% the price of the prelude's locally.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I pay 32 a pop for prelude, how much are you paying for ITRs? And i also use the 3mm spacer inside the rotor, better because you can always go back to 10 inch brakes if needed be.
Xerox : paid 28$ for ITR +10$ to get them 4x100. Prelude were like 54$. I need a set though, i'll check them out maybe it was an error. Even though they work perfect, I would not spit on hubcentric rotor. Plus, it feels more logic imo to drill 4*114.3 rotor rather than 5 lug ones
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMTurboEG6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you think you can get some slotted rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why?
Why?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STN_Pat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Xerox : paid 28$ for ITR +10$ to get them 4x100. Prelude were like 54$. I need a set though, i'll check them out maybe it was an error. Even though they work perfect, I would not spit on hubcentric rotor. Plus, it feels more logic imo to drill 4*114.3 rotor rather than 5 lug ones
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly...plus, when i do go to a legend setup, im going to put the rotors and calipers on my 98 accord LX, lol
Big Brakes for all
</TD></TR></TABLE>Exactly...plus, when i do go to a legend setup, im going to put the rotors and calipers on my 98 accord LX, lol
Big Brakes for all
FWIW, advanced auto parts sells prelude/ITR rotors for about $20-25 a rotor. I have had no problems with using them.
Silly question, why not modify the hub to mate up with the 5 lug prelude/ITR rotors rather than modify the rotors every time?
Silly question, why not modify the hub to mate up with the 5 lug prelude/ITR rotors rather than modify the rotors every time?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FWIW, advanced auto parts sells prelude/ITR rotors for about $20-25 a rotor. I have had no problems with using them.
Silly question, why not modify the hub to mate up with the 5 lug prelude/ITR rotors rather than modify the rotors every time?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi!
for some dumb reason, most of the parts stores around here (i live in MD) charge alot more for the 92-96 4 lug prelude vtec rotors than the 5 lug itr/later prelude rotors..... i've heard from some reliable sources that they can be found fairly reliably by mail order for decent pricing; but then you need to figure in shipping, too.
and to answer your second question -- i figured that the extra expense of a complete itr 5 lug swap ($750+) plus getting rid of my (16) 4 lug rims and buying (16) 5 lug rims ($????) would just be too much. buying the 4 lug rotors and redrilling them just seemed to me to be the best way???
todd
Silly question, why not modify the hub to mate up with the 5 lug prelude/ITR rotors rather than modify the rotors every time?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hi!
for some dumb reason, most of the parts stores around here (i live in MD) charge alot more for the 92-96 4 lug prelude vtec rotors than the 5 lug itr/later prelude rotors..... i've heard from some reliable sources that they can be found fairly reliably by mail order for decent pricing; but then you need to figure in shipping, too.
and to answer your second question -- i figured that the extra expense of a complete itr 5 lug swap ($750+) plus getting rid of my (16) 4 lug rims and buying (16) 5 lug rims ($????) would just be too much. buying the 4 lug rotors and redrilling them just seemed to me to be the best way???
todd
Hey Todd,
You dont happen to know the ID of the center part of the rotor, I was going to make a template out of aluminum and thats the only measurement i didnt have off hand, if you know off hand cool, but if not, ill just measure it later.
Adam should come get those calipers from you at some point (those are for me
)
Thanks for the good deal on them as well!
-sander.
You dont happen to know the ID of the center part of the rotor, I was going to make a template out of aluminum and thats the only measurement i didnt have off hand, if you know off hand cool, but if not, ill just measure it later.
Adam should come get those calipers from you at some point (those are for me
)Thanks for the good deal on them as well!
-sander.



