ok i just got a ZEX kit 55 shot and tonight when i sprayed it the rpm's just shot to rev limiter? i have no idea what it could be but then when I dont spray it feels ok then i tried it again it starts to grad and then just feels like it slips and shots to my rev limiter thank god for my rev limiter! if its clutch what yould you guys/gals choose to replace it? or what else could this be I also got a code 34 fuel i just replaced my fuel filter etc? hmmmmm please help me out on what it is thanks!

 

how old is it??? do u have it adjusted so there is some play in it???

 

it probaly has about 60k miles on it do u have it adjusted so there is some play in it??? Im not sure i dont think so

 

you might be glazing your flywheel...

 

If it is the stock clutch then you probably toasted it when you added the zex kit. If the clutch is indeed fried I would replace it with an act, clutchmasters, or exedy clutch.

 

How is this and if i did fry it whats a clutchmaster coast and how long would it take me to put a new clutch in I have never done a clutch before? also the clutch feels fine when im just driving but when I spray it shots to rev limiter there are no weird smell like clutch(you can tell its clutch by the smell)


[Modified by -=TWITCH=-, 8:34 PM 4/10/2002]

 

I got my Stage 1 clutchmasters for 315 shipped. It will probably take you the good part of a saturday since you haven't done one before.

 

what hp is the stage 1 rated for damn thats alot of $

 

it takes about 6 hours todo it if u have an idea of wut ur doin plus u need to resurface ur flywheel

 

so you guys really think its clutch even though no smell and still pulls ok without nitrous? this sucks

 

No one ever said a clutch was cheap. You could always get a stock one again. But then you run the risk of toasting it after a few thousand miles. You could look into a centerforce clutch. Those are a bit cheaper than some of the others.

 

Ok thanks but i just want to rule out anythig else it could be? so forsure its clutch?

 

I am not totally sure because I can't actually see, hear, and feel what is happening. But my guess is that it is something with the clutch or flywheel

 

ya its pretty simple no weird noise just the sound of my rev limiter! no weird smells like clutch it's just weird when i sprayed the rpms just flew up like i wasnt in gear thats all that happened still totaly drivable without the N2o feels fine but when i spray!

 

do you think I need a flywheel too! please god tell me NO!

 

see what happens when you are trigger happy.

 

but im really not i havnt even used a bottle yet! what should i do?

 

buy a new motor.. be trigger happy with a b16

 

I dont have to time and the $ to do a b16

 

oh, I forgot to mention my experience with nitrous and a stock clutch, 1 week after I started spraying my ZC with the stock clutch, it would do the same thing, then it eventually got worse so that it slipped during normal driving, the heat from the slippage causes flywheel glaze, that can be corrected by replacing the clutch with an aftermarket "racing" clutch and resurfacing the flywheel if the hot spots aren't too deep. If they are, A D series flyewheel will work, go to "clutchspecialties.com" thats where i got mine, great price and GREAT product, i've been spraying my B16 with one of their clutches with no probs. When I smoked my clutch with the ZC I bought an ACT and it worked well too, but expensive.

oh, and do not thank god for your rev limiter, a stock rev limiter cuts fuel, when you are spraying nitrous and you hit rev limiter, it causes a severly lean condition, that causes detonation and then BOOOM. DO NOT BOUNCE OFF STOCK REV LIMITER WHILE SPRAYING NITROUS, live by it, die by it, you'll be ok

Chris

 

1st one done on my car took 3 nights =P what you could do it just get a street/strip pressure plate and use the clutch disc thats all ready in there if your tight on $$. 60K should still have life left in it. it the rpms are flying up your clutch is slipping.

yeah stay the hell away from the rev limiter


[Modified by TorteX, 12:10 AM 4/11/2002]

 

wow thats tons of time! i hope it dosnt take me that damn long!

 

well changeing trans's take 2 hrs w/ a lift, removing and installing a clutch doesnt take that much time at all (torque that guy in there properly tho dunno what zc specs are but d15b1/2 - d16z6 is 87lb flywheel, 19lb pressure plate) when my clutch was done no one had ever changed a clutch on a honda before so we were all learning. its 238965 times easier to change a clutch w/ the whole motor out but its not nessicarry

 

****........sorry i just had to say it i dont want to put in a clutch but i guess ill learn alot!

what about this i know nothing about clutchs
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/raci...c/08-801-B.htm


[Modified by -=TWITCH=-, 11:16 PM 4/10/2002]

 

I'm doing my clutch in my ZC right now. Personally I'd recommend replacing the release bearing spring since it's only about $5. I just completed mine, put it back together, pushed the clutch once, and the spring broke, so I'm doing it all again.

I'm 99% sure its the clutch. I put a turbo on my ZC and it began slipping under boost right from the start. There was no clutch smell at all, but it would basically do the same thing (except I never let it hit the limiter).

Before you start the changing the clutch, get a good punch for the pin in the shift linkage (I'm assuming you did the motor swap, so you know what I mean). With air tools it took me about 1 hour 20 min to take out in my tiny garage, but it took about 3 hours to put it back in. Pulling the radiator (you can just unbolt it and put it on top of the motor so you don't have to drain it) and the distributor make it easier to get to all of the bolts. The radius arm thing from the front x-member to the LCA needs to come out too. It's really easy and straight forward.