Question about my dyno'd jdm itr motor...
I should have posted this up earlier, but well, I didn't
When I first bought my car, Hookups was having a dyno day, so I decided to stop by to see how strong the motor was. At this point the previous owner hadn't changed most of the maintenance items such as the cap, distributor, wires, plugs, or air filter. I had the chance to change them after the dyno day.
Also, on the dyno day, I was running some Falkens which had about 500-750 miles on them, if that makes any difference.
Low for a 98 jdm itr huh? The car was basically running everything off the stock engine; jdm itr header and the jdm p73 for 98 itrs (i think), but with a test pipe.
No a/f on the free dyno day
What do you guys think, what could be the problem?
Compression came back at about 250 even across all cylinders. Haven't done a leakdown. Would the lack of maintenance at that time have caused these lower #s?
When I first bought my car, Hookups was having a dyno day, so I decided to stop by to see how strong the motor was. At this point the previous owner hadn't changed most of the maintenance items such as the cap, distributor, wires, plugs, or air filter. I had the chance to change them after the dyno day.
Also, on the dyno day, I was running some Falkens which had about 500-750 miles on them, if that makes any difference.
Low for a 98 jdm itr huh? The car was basically running everything off the stock engine; jdm itr header and the jdm p73 for 98 itrs (i think), but with a test pipe.
No a/f on the free dyno day
What do you guys think, what could be the problem?Compression came back at about 250 even across all cylinders. Haven't done a leakdown. Would the lack of maintenance at that time have caused these lower #s?
Speculation side - It's possible to lose all that power....
Reality side - We don't know just how bad the condition of all those components were.
Throw it back on the dyno and see if your tune-up made a difference.
Have you had the valves adjusted?
Reality side - We don't know just how bad the condition of all those components were.
Throw it back on the dyno and see if your tune-up made a difference.
Have you had the valves adjusted?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">By doing a valve adjustment can it make you gain or loose horsepower? Is it really crucial when it comes to a stock motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A valve adjustment IF DONT PROPERLY will always make the car pick up small amounts of power and run the way it should. It will feel more peppy and responsive.
On the other hand if someone over tightens or over loosens your valves, they wont be at SPEC, in return costing you power/performance. Make sure whoever does them has a Helms manual with the proper valve lash specs.
That is all.
A valve adjustment IF DONT PROPERLY will always make the car pick up small amounts of power and run the way it should. It will feel more peppy and responsive.
On the other hand if someone over tightens or over loosens your valves, they wont be at SPEC, in return costing you power/performance. Make sure whoever does them has a Helms manual with the proper valve lash specs.
That is all.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i though a stock usdm itr should be in the 160's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine is a JDM one and only hit those numbers. Both compression and leakdown tests came back perfect. I did however have a totally crappy header on there, it wasn't the ITR one. So 160's is possible
Mine is a JDM one and only hit those numbers. Both compression and leakdown tests came back perfect. I did however have a totally crappy header on there, it wasn't the ITR one. So 160's is possible
Valves were adjusted. Considering that I don't think the owner ever adjusted them, they weren't too terribly out of spec. The only thing that ticks now are those bloody-loud injectors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JUN.R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, numbers are slightly low, but not low enough to have any kind of major concern, do a valve adjustment and get some new numbers for us, it's be a cool comparrison</TD></TR></TABLE>
Will do, but i'm deciding between bodywork/paint/ding removal or the tuning.
I park in a lot with college freshmen, and needless to say, those sonsofbitches can't park worth a damn. Since September of last year, I've sustained this bodily damage:
1) 2 door dings on driver's side door
2) rear bumper swiped, scraping about 12 inches of paint clear off.
3) an odd dent on my hood. Someone jumped on it maybe?
Not to mention #4:
4) Mom backing up onto and OVER my car's front bumper. She managed to back out of the garage without seeing my car behind it. Luckily our driveway's on an incline, and she rode on top of my bumper instead of smashing it in. I've got a nice Camry exhaust imprint on my bumper though
Will do, but i'm deciding between bodywork/paint/ding removal or the tuning.
I park in a lot with college freshmen, and needless to say, those sonsofbitches can't park worth a damn. Since September of last year, I've sustained this bodily damage:
1) 2 door dings on driver's side door
2) rear bumper swiped, scraping about 12 inches of paint clear off.
3) an odd dent on my hood. Someone jumped on it maybe?
Not to mention #4:
4) Mom backing up onto and OVER my car's front bumper. She managed to back out of the garage without seeing my car behind it. Luckily our driveway's on an incline, and she rode on top of my bumper instead of smashing it in. I've got a nice Camry exhaust imprint on my bumper though
Sounds like you need to get out of college before you consider all the body repairs.....that or find another lot
What's the point in repairing it and then having the first jack **** driving an '87 Hyundai Pony wreck fresh paint?
I vote for dyno....but this is from a guy who has a busted dash, a black rear bumper and a buncha dings and dents too
What's the point in repairing it and then having the first jack **** driving an '87 Hyundai Pony wreck fresh paint?
I vote for dyno....but this is from a guy who has a busted dash, a black rear bumper and a buncha dings and dents too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erikiksaz1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Compression came back at about 250 even across all cylinders. Haven't done a leakdown. #s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c_dc2_type_r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you got a compression test ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Compression came back at about 250 even across all cylinders. Haven't done a leakdown. #s?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18c_dc2_type_r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you got a compression test ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A valve adjustment IF DONT PROPERLY will always make the car pick up small amounts of power ....
On the other hand if someone over tightens... your valves, they wont be at SPEC, in return costing you power/performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get a couple of HP by going a little tight on the valves, but there should be a good reason to do it because you are causing other problems. If your tuning is already lean to get the HP, you could overheat in a way that won't show on the temp gauge...but those couple of HP are there if you need to win a race at whatever cost.
The very first dyno of my bone stock '00 ITR was 158 HP on a rolling Dynojet at a track day.
About an hour later, a bone stock '97 ITR was 162 HP.
So don't panic.
We can adjust the Dynojet so that it reads 10% higher, if you want.
A valve adjustment IF DONT PROPERLY will always make the car pick up small amounts of power ....
On the other hand if someone over tightens... your valves, they wont be at SPEC, in return costing you power/performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can get a couple of HP by going a little tight on the valves, but there should be a good reason to do it because you are causing other problems. If your tuning is already lean to get the HP, you could overheat in a way that won't show on the temp gauge...but those couple of HP are there if you need to win a race at whatever cost.
The very first dyno of my bone stock '00 ITR was 158 HP on a rolling Dynojet at a track day.
About an hour later, a bone stock '97 ITR was 162 HP.
So don't panic.
We can adjust the Dynojet so that it reads 10% higher, if you want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's the purpose of adjusting a dynojet. It gives people false hope or it makes them feel their cars are slow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. Without knowing a lot of details, it's hard to equate one dyno's figures against another dyno's figures.
One of my B motor tunes got 194 HP on one Dynojet, and 186 HP on another one...nothing changed on the motor.
IMHO, dynos are good only for tuning the same car on the same dyno.
Exactly. Without knowing a lot of details, it's hard to equate one dyno's figures against another dyno's figures.
One of my B motor tunes got 194 HP on one Dynojet, and 186 HP on another one...nothing changed on the motor.
IMHO, dynos are good only for tuning the same car on the same dyno.
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