Well it's about time to replace the rear mount in my '97. I've got 67k and two season of autocross, so it's time to eliminate the persistent rocking. I just replaced the front two and they were pretty simple.

My question is this: is it really the much of a pain to replace the rear with ratchets a breaker bar, beer and cursing? Also, it almost seems easier to go in through the top however, I don't really want to remove the manifold. Is this doable with jack stands.

thanks!
Matt

 

This is another thing I will be replacing in the next few days. Taking the IM off just to replace the mount is ridiculous overkill to me. Its doable from the bottom, I dont have mine on but the bracket for the IM always gets in the way. I recommend taking that off and throw it in the trash!! What a waste of metal. When I do mine I will go thru the bottom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes it is very doable from the bottom if you have a lift. Laying underneath the car is not very comfortable, poor leverage, and a poor view. Of course you can still do it with jackstands, but I found it easer to do from the top when not using a lift. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what I was thinking. It would seem impossible to get the torque I need turning an upside down bolt while lying on my back.

Having second thoughts, so how tough is it to remove and reinstall the IM? Are there any fluid vacuum hoses to remove that would be a pita?

-Matt

 

there are coolant lines that go through the IM and TB/IACV. thats what makes removing the IM a pita. otherwise, it can be difficult to access some of the bolts/nuts on the IM.

I would imagine it would be MORE of a PITA to try to change the rear mount without removing the IM and doing it from the bottom, as opposed to removing it and going in from the top.

side note, I just installed a set of Prothane mounts(motor removed by the way), and the way the rear insert fits, it made it extra PITA to get a wrench into the rear bolts on the mount. I wouldnt have wanted to even try that from under the car.

 

I've always done it with the IM on the head. I would use long socket extensions with swivel sockets. Works just fine and dandy. Putting it all back together however is a pain in the butt.

 

Do your install on Saturday!! I'll race you, you go from the top and I'll go from the bottom. Laying on your back under the car is more comfortable than being 6'4 and leaning over for all of that time.

 

Back pain is and always will be a ****!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back pain is and always will be a ****!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Def!!! Thats why laying on your back is easier If you have a freak of a girlfriend/wife she can keep your mind off of it being such a PITA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Def!!! Thats why laying on your back is easier If you have a freak of a girlfriend/wife she can keep your mind off of it being such a PITA </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but this type of relief is only temporary unfortanately. Beer usually lasts longer than, um, booty.

All I have to say is F- chiropractors and $50 specialist co-pays on health insurance.

Back on subject, I think I'll be yanking out the intake manifold and I'll let you guys know what I break in the process besides my knuckles. At least my engine won't be rocking around any longer.

 

When are you doing it. You getting any help? Record the time and see how long it takes.

Pop a blue pill and the booty will last longer than the beer

 

I did mine from the bottom, didn't remove the intake, or anything else. It was a true pain in the ***. I used urethane inserts on the stock mount.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The joy of living in a Humid SubTropical climate and being able to bypass it without any ill effects </TD></TR></TABLE>

bahhh...Ive had mine bypassed for awhile now here in chilly NY. No problems really, sometimes on a cold night in winter, my idle wont drop below about 2K at stop lights. no big deal. that helps build boost off the line for the drag race to the next stop light

&lt;&lt;&lt; has lime green motor mounts FTW

 

I installed some ES bushing this saturday, went thru the bottom and didnt have too many problems. Alot easier without the stupid IM bracket!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When are you doing it. You getting any help? Record the time and see how long it takes.

Pop a blue pill and the booty will last longer than the beer </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure I won't need any of those blue pills for a while.

I'll probably just yank that son of a bitch out the bottom. Anyone know the torque specs by chance?

 

Back a couple of years ago, I installed the stiffer prothane inserts into a new rear motor mount and installed that. (I was replacing an older worn rear motor mount on my itr.)

Well I did it all from the bottom and had to slightly bent one of the hard lines for the PS rack, but otherwise it was just a PITA but not impossible.

Of course a wobble or swivel and extensions are essential for this task.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Utilitarian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm sure I won't need any of those blue pills for a while.

I'll probably just yank that son of a bitch out the bottom. Anyone know the torque specs by chance? </TD></TR></TABLE>

=tight