For those who were interested in seeing my radiator pics...
I got a lot of PM's from people wondering how my manifolds will fit with a Full-Race radiator. Well heres the pics. The fitment is as good as it's going to get with a topmount and a nice thick radiator. As you can see, there is enough room for someone too fab up a 3" DP if they so inclined. It would just need to come out towards the block.




And the battery tray with the battery installed...





And the battery tray with the battery installed...

looks great man, how much did that set you back? oh and hope you got new motor mounts when that b16 wants to move looks like the mani might run into it or atleast rub.
digging the batter relocation. very cool
digging the batter relocation. very cool
holy cow thats close! will only get further away with engine torquing though....
cant wait to see your setup up and running bro!
-adam
cant wait to see your setup up and running bro!
-adam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by father figure »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks great man, how much did that set you back? oh and hope you got new motor mounts when that b16 wants to move looks like the mani might run into it or atleast rub.
digging the batter relocation. very cool
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It was about $335 shipped. I'm running the Hasport billets with the race durometer. It shouldn't move much, but like redzcstandardhatch mentioned, it will only move away from it as the engine torques. Unless I end up putting down 400whp in reverse
.
digging the batter relocation. very cool
</TD></TR></TABLE>It was about $335 shipped. I'm running the Hasport billets with the race durometer. It shouldn't move much, but like redzcstandardhatch mentioned, it will only move away from it as the engine torques. Unless I end up putting down 400whp in reverse
.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It was about $335 shipped. I'm running the Hasport billets with the race durometer. It shouldn't move much, but like redzcstandardhatch mentioned, it will only move away from it as the engine torques. Unless I end up putting down 400whp in reverse
.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks good man. You shouldnt have any problems with it hitting. The only way it would hit is if you were hard on it then let off, which causes the engine to lurch forward. But with those mounts i dont really see any possibility of contact. Good job man
It was about $335 shipped. I'm running the Hasport billets with the race durometer. It shouldn't move much, but like redzcstandardhatch mentioned, it will only move away from it as the engine torques. Unless I end up putting down 400whp in reverse
.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks good man. You shouldnt have any problems with it hitting. The only way it would hit is if you were hard on it then let off, which causes the engine to lurch forward. But with those mounts i dont really see any possibility of contact. Good job man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cbp_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have been thinking about doing that setup with the battery rather than putting it in the rear, is that the full size stock battery or is that a smaller one</TD></TR></TABLE>
Full size
Fits great, and theres even room for some 25" slicks
Full size
Fits great, and theres even room for some 25" slicks
thats awsome, did you bolt that battery bracket down, or weld it to the car, also im thinking i may have trouble with my cold air intake, do you think there is enough room to keep the air filter down there or ?
It's welded to the car. I figured it was going to be a permanent installation, so I made it as such. There wouldn't be enough room for a CAI. Theres maybe 3" above the battery.
IMO its way to much money for their traction bar and rad. Its over 700 plus shipping. WOw. It looks really good though!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicks_jdmstyle_ef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO its way to much money for their traction bar and rad. Its over 700 plus shipping. WOw. It looks really good though!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
To me it was worth it. I wanted my money to go towards something that will last, and is proven to work. I had a bad experience with L-con and after that, Full-Race was VERY appealing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>To me it was worth it. I wanted my money to go towards something that will last, and is proven to work. I had a bad experience with L-con and after that, Full-Race was VERY appealing.
Wow, f'n sweet. I am contemplating doing a turbo on my CRX DX. This pushes me one step further to doing it.
That battery tray reminds me of a dodge, or some weird domestic that shoves its battery in the wheel well. Way to use available space, and improve your center of gravity!
That battery tray reminds me of a dodge, or some weird domestic that shoves its battery in the wheel well. Way to use available space, and improve your center of gravity!



